metalmonkey47

No MSD box, just pure matchbox Datsun ignition. I wonder if I can dig up a test sheet for my GEN III Wells tester at work and test the module. I started the truck and jiggled the ign switch around a tad. No change, so that's out of the equation. It happened again today, but this time under different conditions. I was driving along in 4th at about 60mph spinning the motor around 4000ish RPM's and it just stalled. Pumped the gas a bit trying to see if I could recover it, kinda focused on everything the motor did looking for any telltale signs of other issues. Just died. Tried to run a bit, not just an abrupt stall like it's been lately. I noticed when I stopped the truck and started it back up, it took a few turns over to fire up. I revved it, it idled, so I took off hard. It made it home, but I had an off idle stumble, and under light throttle missfired like mad. If I open the throttle a little more and drive harder it seems to be a little more stable and stopped missing, but this things so powerful I just can't open the throttle anymore. I've had those same issues since the truck started acting up, but this time it has multiplied and was acting like a major bitch. At first I was thinking fuel starvation, but it seems if that was the case, I wouldn't have seen any kind of fuel from the accelerator pump, since the feed hole is 1/4 up the bowl or so, and the truck would have continue to run if I pumped the throttle. Also, it wouldn't begin to run better at wide open throttle where more fuel is required. Hmmmm..... think I'm just gonna go ahead and toss a new IGN coil on there tomorrow and see how it reacts. Seems like that could potentially be the root of all my problems. Also gonna pull the dizzy and inspect the pieces and contacts. Gonna unwrap all of my ignition wires as well and inspect all the soldered parts.

RIP Cam... Gonna go dig and see if maybe I can come up with something cool and rare....brb

Right on Mike, that's an awesome idea :thumbup: I'll try that for sure. I'll run an extra ground to the dizzy tomorrow. :thumbup: On it! Earliest convenience I'm tearing into it. Only dumb question is the one not asked. About 1/4 tank, but I've had it happen around a full tank Funny you mention it, I actually pulled the dizzy off a few weeks ago and pulled the EI module off to inspect it and look at the vacuum advance to see if it was sticking. Haven't seen any water lately, so I know that's not it for sure :fu: But the rest I'll check on! Only think that weber is starved for is air ;) Never woulda thought about that :thumbup: Will do hoss :thumbup: Thought it sounded like coil, but with primary/secondary resistance checking out it's a hard call. Buddy of mine is trying to convince me to go to a 60's Mustang switch, for the heavy duty contacts. I'm thinking the switch could be plausible. I've been through about 10 of these switches from the backing plate that holds the contacts separating from the barrel. Fixed the most recent one by JBWelding it together. Stupid cheap switch. Just FYI for anyone, DON'T BUY Wells ignition switches. :fu: I do need to update that, don't I?? hahahaha

Over the period of about 3 weeks this has happened 3 times. I've tried to trace it when it happens, but have had no luck finding the cause leading me to believe it might be electrical. 1st time: Pulled out of work hard, made it in 2nd gear to 5500 and it just choked and shut off. Pulled over to the side of the road, popped the hood. All looked as it should, had fuel, no loose connections... Turned the key and the truck fired right up and drove off without a problem. 2nd time: Pulled out of the grocery store, under the same conditions, gear, RPM, failed at the same time. Pulled over, turned the key, it fired right up and drove away. 3rd time: Tonight pulling out of the hardware store, didn't make it past 1st gear, the truck stalled, started bucking like a wounded horse and died. While rolling I turned off the key and back on again, and it fired back up and I drove away. Nothing is loose anywhere, Tested secondary resistance on IGN coil: According to MSD... Should read about .355 ohms. Reads .455 ohms. Small variance. Primary reads right on spec @ 4.4K Ohms. No loose connections. All of my connections are tightly soldered and heat shrunk, or some crimped ring terminals and heat shrunk at the coil. A guy I work with, old school genius suggested worn out contacts in the IGN switch. or worn out ignitor in the dizzy. Ign switch seems like a likely cause...but I'm just looking for suggestions and feedback at this point.

Holy crap Dave! That's a ton of power. What all did you end.up doing to squeeze that out?

Pull the tank, drain it, inspect it. Rust? Pour some pea gravel in the tank After taking the level sender out, and roll the tank around. Then you might pour a gallon of laquer thinner in their to clean up any leftover residue. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace the points, I'm sure they're corroded after say... 32,415 lunar cycles. Check fluids, maybe even change the oil with some cheap 10w30 until you know how it's running. And turn the key. All of this is probably better to do not high...

^^Agreed. Looks like a potential gem! Could always make a lexan window. Solutions are easy ;)

Was this your miata by chance?

I'm guessing the guy blew up something in the driveline. My buddy wants to buy it and build a fuckaround car with it and I totally support that. Plans include stripping the car bare naked, re-wiring EVERYTHING except tail light harness etc. The car was pretty naked before. A15 out... H150(I think) axle out, and.... GM LM7 5.3L 4L60E Ford 8.8 diff. S13 front suspension w/ 5 lug conversion to match the rear. Balls to the wall, the plans go on. We already have a motor/trans combo just sitting aside that would be awesome to put to use. Also have a KA-E that needs a rebuild that would be an okay candidate. The car was pretty beat when I sold it. Chances are it's no better now. We're gonna hack it up to make it usable.

It's gonna be a BITCH to get this car back. My awesome brother went down and talked to the lady at the impound yard. It is my car, it was registered to a new owner. (The one I sold it to) it was abandoned within 30 minuets from my house back in July and has racked up $1600 in storage fees since then. The yard has already filed the paperwork with the state to send the car to auction, but they can not/will not tell us when/where the car is going to auction. I'm gonna wait and call them back and see if she'll let us make an offer for a couple hundred cash in hand for the car once the paperwork is filed. Doubt it would sell for much at auction here

Skib has been busy.

Gloria has resurfaced!! Customers came into the store tonight to describe my very first Datsun sitting in a towing lot about 30 minuets down the road! Seems like it may have been abandoned and possibly never registered from what the guys at the lot told the guys, meaning I would be the most recent registered owner! A little bit of paperwork...and pay a few fines maybe, and I may be able to get Gloria back in my hands again :thumbup:

That didn't even occur to me when I skimmed through that. They list the specs: H-Beam Connecting Rods (4 PCS) + Bolts for DATSUN 510 L Engine Straight-4 L16 L18 L20.Forged Aircraft 4340 Steel, Highest Level of Strength.High Performance, Supports 600 HP.Rod Length: 5.236" (133mm).B/E Bore: 53mm.S/E Bore: 21mm.B/E W: 26.8mm.S/E W: 23.9mm.Rod Bolt: 3/8". Probably all generic info....no fucking way any L-4 is going to make anywhere near 600HP without turning itself into butter in the process.

You can't have been searching too hard. Google "datsun L20 forged rods" and the 5th result. http://www.amazon.com/H-Beam-Connecting-Bolts-DATSUN-Engine/dp/B00EUV8MKA

Stock L series bottom ends (rods & cranks) are forged. No need for aftermarket.

Very nice. I love your Starion. Were you scraping through there?? sounded like it alot around 2:30ish.

There's always HP to be found. Mine's still lacking, and I goof with it a lot just looking. I need to check valve lash. I have the Racer Brown specs for the cam somewhere, since the lash on the cam is supposed to be set at the cam (between lash pad/rocker tip) vs. the factory method. Couple other little things to look at. I've probably lost a few HP rolling the timing back to make the motor more stable (M_o_T recommendation, and makes it more streetable) but I've pulled the clutch fan off in favor of just my electric and fan t-stat to free up a little power (minimal) and allow me to warm the engine up faster in our colder temps. I've got an issue that's reared it's big ugly head in the last couple weeks. Only happened twice, but under the same conditions. Pulled out of work the first time, and revved it out goofing off for our district manager that was asking about it. Motor made it to 5500 fine but once it got there it choked and shut off with no sign or heads up. Pulled off in the parking lot and I had fuel in the bowl, checked all my IGN wiring which was fine. Got back in, turned the key and it fired right up. Blam no hesitation, nothing. It ran like a top. Drove it home with no issue. Since then revved the snot out of it, lots of clutch dumps, goofy donuts on the side of the road, etc with no issue until tonight. Just like the first time, pulled out, hit second gear, hit 5500 and it was off. Pulled off, didn't even get out this time. Turned the key off then on again, turned the starter and after a few short revolutions it roared to life and drove off without a hitch. I figure it's got to be ignition related. Checked for any loose connections that might be rattling around at high RPM's but I hadn't found anything. At this point, I'm a little stumped. I'm gonna take my ohm meter to the IGN parts tomorrow and check coil primary/secondary resistance, I'm sure it's not related to the ICM. For now I'll just keep driving it. I'm working on the SU's slowly day by day. I will start working on the heat shield some day soon when I find some time to start making measurements. I also need to get some fittings for the brake booster on the manifold. Hoping for a 20+HP gain with the Z car SU's once properly setup. The motors pretty stout and with enough air should throw down some epic numbers. it's very strong with a 38/38 but it's not nearly enough. Intake ports are about 41mm fed by two small 38mm barrel's. Z car SU's are around 46-48mm iirc so it should feed the motor a lot more. The engine felt substantially better with the 38/38 over the 32/36.

Must be Australian.

That's not really drifting then. That's just sliding around on dirt and gravel. This is drifting. What you're talking about doing goes by many names. One of which is rallycross. Or just plain fucking around. Both are fun either way.

dang haha. Well whatever they are, they're tempting me!

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/pts/4131430216.html

Holy shit that's cool

Pics of my recent LZ22 build. LZ22 by metalmonkey47, on Flickr Dat purp by metalmonkey47, on Flickr A87 Peanut by metalmonkey47, on Flickr