metalmonkey47

Thanks guys, you rock! Had it out within 3 minuets of your replies. On another note, Mike how important are those shims? I recall seeing on last night that thin as paper fall out, and in my rush I don't remember if it went back in or not Is it critical that it goes back in?

...and the winner is?? lulz. Anyways, sucks mang, just glad you're okay.

Input shaft seal is leaking on my L series. Theres 4 of us working on it right now, but I need to know how the front cover comes off on the L series truck transmission. I don't know the model number specifically, but I believe all the front covers are the same. It's a 4 speed in a '76 620

A little bit late, but hell, better late then never? Thanks for those of you that have served. Especially these dudes:

I'd say it's pretty important. You want your car to run consistent right? There may be a trick to tuning it without one though, and just using a single vacuum gauge. I read about it a while back when I was wanting to use ITB's

Doing input shaft seal when i do the rear main tomorrow afternoon. Same concept as rear main, correct?

Thanks for the reminder Mike. I've forwarded this message (not exact, but the gist of it) to some other forums.

I have a happy truck. Got an L16 thermostat housing, lightly polished it, and now I don't have an ugly ass water outlet

Sorry guys, I am WAY too lazy to fix the bandwidth problem, so those oics are down for a few more days. Until then, I have a new photobucket!

Nope, original engine should have been an L16. L20B makes it even more worth the $200 though! Someone please for the love of God, save this dime.

LOL NO. You forget Josh, we live in Georgia. We'd get shot for doing that.

Thought you guys might enjoy this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5fAHtwRohU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0OZ91M8NNM&feature=player_embedded

The master for the front is topped off and hasn't budged since I picked up the truck. Rear brakes leak though. Quite substantially to be honest I've driven 893 miles since I bought the truck a month ago, so I'd assume they're well broken in I don't know about the drums. I'd assume probably not, since thats a commonly overlooked part of a brake job. I measured them with a digital micrometer, and they measured within spec, but of course, that doesn't mean they aren't out of round. I'm really kind of intrigued by the suggestion that they may be backwards

Alright, this isn't critical per say, but it is something that's been bothering me. TWO different things to discuss in this topic: A: When I picked up my '76 620, I noticed the parking brake was a little soft. Obviously, the first thing I did was adjusted the parking brake cable. I tightened up the tension on it to where it would begin to engage as soon as you start to pull the handle. Now the handles softened and I have about 3 inches of free play in the parking brake handle. The parking brake won't hold the truck on a small incline without me first pushing the pedal down hard with the parking brake set, and even at that sometimes it doesn't work. What I've done so far to troubleshoot: 1. I've done a basic brake inspection. I was told the brakes were replaced recently before I got the truck. Since I know you guys are going to say "that doesn't mean anything," I went ahead and pulled the drums before making this thread, and can vouch for that. The shoes are new (looking) with 100% material. Hardware looks brand new on top of that. Also with that, the left rear wheel cylinder IS leaking a bit, and is on my to-do list. 2. I've re-adjusted the brakes on both sides, and were not off adjustment more then a notch. 3. I've adjusted the parking brake cable, but there literally isn't ANY more room for adjustment, so obviously something's not right. B: When I step on the brakes after releasing the parking brake (I think this is just coincidental) there is a somewhat loud 'pop' from what sounds like the front right wheel. During the brake inspection noted above, I found the brakes @ that wheel were mis-adjusted and tightened up a few notches. I have more braking strength, however the noise did not go away. When I had the drums off, I saw nothing out of the ordinary on this wheel. All hardware/springs were in the right place and none looked fatigued. I also noticed after getting a 'pop' out of the brakes, I have less braking strength, although I know this is partially due to the rear cylinder listed above.

Have you checked ignition timing? Stock L20B?

Yup! If you aren't planning on drag racing or SCCA racing on these wheels, you're absolutely fine.

Just filled up for $3.21 earlier this afternoon U jelly?

Thank God for good gas mileage

I love the look of louvers. Don't know why you're all hating up there ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

When you got a Datsun to post oics of, then you can expect someone else to post their oics

Replacement U-joints can NOT be ordered anywhere for the 210/B310 driveline. Best you'll be able to do is find a local Nissan dealer with an OEM driveshaft on the shelf. Best price I got was $300. Want something cheaper? Go find a driveline shop that is qualified to modify your driveshaft to accept better U-joints. I payed a local driveline shop $150 to knock out the old joints, place in brand new joints with grease fittings, and balance the driveshaft. I've been through this same dilema before and found it wasted time trying to get around spending money on it. Chances are the mechanic that told you he could do it probably doesn't realize what it takes to remove a staked U-joint. In my honest opinion, ANY mechanic that wants you to source your own parts isn't a very good mechanic at all. Part of doing the job is finding the parts.

sorry guys, pics are down. 5 days into this month and my 500GB bandwidth cap is GONE after uploading these pictures. They will be back in minuets.

It's a staked u-joint. Go by a driveline shop and have them take care of it