pope_face

comply: Yeah, I agree, I was looking at those numbers too and they didn't make much sense... maybe the percentage are people who consistantly come online, or who spend the most time here? With the children one it would make sense, I suppose... those of us without kids are probably more likely to spend time screwin' around on a website than doing something productive. :rolleyes:

:lol:

Nice! Glad to have you around... what're your plans with it? And where's the rest of the pics? :D

Nice! Glad to hear that you can get Paco back... I spent two months not being able to work on my truck and I started going nuts, so I can't imagine not being able to do anything for a year. Looks like our paintjobs are sorta similar... flat black with red stripes. I like the blacked out grille/headlight surrounds... very slick. :thumbup: What're your plans with it now that it's back? And where are the engine bay/interior shots?

Hahaha, thanks Doug. :D I'm keeping the paint job for sure... Back when I was still looking for a truck to modify (originally I was going to use a 60's/70's domestic) I reaaaaally wanted to go with a kinda ratty street-rod/beach truck look: lowered suspension, whitewalls on red smoothies with chrome baby moons, and flat black paint job with scallops. When I found this truck online, there was no picture and not much of a description, other than year and type. It took me about four hours and $50 to get out to see it (driving and ferry trip), and when I pulled into the guy's driveway I fell in love... it was exactly like I'd wanted to build it. So... The paint's staying the same... the only thing that's changing is red stockers and chrome hubcaps all around, dumping the exhaust, putting a rollpan in the rear to give it a cleaner look, and giving it a more aggressive grille/light combo in front. Oh, and dropping it down a bit more... or maybe dropping the front and bringing the rear to stock height to give it some rake... :D

I was considering that, but I wanted to stay carbed... I'd like to keep the electronics to a minimum. The other thing is availability... I managed to find a recently rebuilt 12A at a reputable shop up here. A turbo would be nice, but if I was going to go all out with this I'd get one of the Renesis engines from an RX-8. Besides, I thought it'd be cool to show that it's not all about having the biggest engine you can find, even though this is the equivilent to a 2.3L V6... ^_^

Hahaha, awesome. Congratulations. Looking forward to more helpful posts from ya. ;)

Alright, this is build version 1.1... I'd appreciate if one of the mods could delete my old one... :o Here's the deal: Take one '70 521, add a Wankel rotary from an '85 Mazda RX-7 and four-speed auto transmission, and redo the interior to end up with a 521 RST (Rotary Sport Truck). The Truck: 1970 Datsun 521 (North American Market) The Drivetrain: (No pics yet, will add them as soon as I pick up the engine) Engine: 1985 Mazda Rotary 12A Displacement: 573cc x 2 rotors (1146cc total) Horsepower: 101 @ 6,000 RPM Torque: 107 ft/lbs @ 4,000 RPM Max RPM: ~8,500 RPM Transmission: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Four-Speed Auto Final Drive Ratio: 4.88:1 (Stock 521 w/ J13) The Interior: Nardi wood steering wheel on Momo hub Old-style Recaro racing seat Wood dash w/ plain round gauges (Styled after 70's British cars) Dash air vents Stock switches Four-speaker audio system w/ sub and hidden headunit. The Exterior: Flat black paint w/ red & white scallops Red stockers w/ stock chrome hubcaps Custom grille Eurolite 5.75" round H4 single-headlight conversion in stock low-beam position Mercedes or Bosch fog lamps in stock high-beam position Bosch or Hella bumper mount driving lamps Bumper mounted motorcycle turn signals Rear roll pan w/ integrated taillights Exhaust dumped in front of rear wheel Interior sneak peek: I know, it's kinda dirty inside, but that's what I've got so far. Nothing's changed on the outside yet (as I can't get damn rusty screws out). The Recaro will stay if I can shorten the steering column and get a quick-release hub. Anybody know of any steering columns w/ telescopic steering that'll fit? If all else fails, I'll use a '69 four-door 510 seat like on the passenger's side. Questions, comments, concerns? :D

Dat: I didn't know that projectors worked like a magnifying glass... I guess that makes more sense now. I always thought they aimed the beam as well. My only other potential concern for this setup is the distances between all the components... In a single-headlight system, you've got one lens and one bulb that fuctions as both the high and low beam lights. (Skip ahead if you know all this, it's mostly for me to formulate my thoughts) We all know that there's a big difference between a high-beam light pattern and a low-beam one, and since the housing can't adjust itself, the bulb does all the work. The bulb has two filaments inside it, one for high beam, and one for low beam. Now because there's not a lot of room inside the bulb, the distance between the two filaments is very small, only a few millimeters. This means that the housings and lenses have to be very exactly designed to output the maximum amount of light within a certain beam-pattern depending on which filament gets power inside the bulb. Now, having said that, I know you're running a dual headlamp system, not a single, but I still feel the same principle applies. You're still trying to focus the maximum amount of light within a particular beam pattern, especially in the low beam lights. If you've played with a maglite, you know how the beam changes when you turn the top. I believe the same concept applies to headlights... Which makes me a little concerned about how you went through with this... first, the bulb is different; second, the distance from the bulb to the projector lens changed; third, are you sure that the distance from the projector lens to the high/low beam lens is correct? It seems to me that the bulb is the most important aspect of this entire setup... once you select a bulb, then you can figure out the distance needed between it and the projector lens, and finally the distance between the projector and the headlamp lens to get the best light output. I apologize for sounding... accusatory. I don't mean to, I think it's a great project, and it's one that I was considering myself, and the finished product looks great. I didn't even know the projectors just magnified the light until Dat521 replyed to my post. I'm just bringing up these points to keep you and everyone here safe... I don't want anyone getting into an accident or being pulled over by the cops because the beam pattern was off... Sorry for the long rant...

Nice project, but how's the beam pattern on those? Does it scatter a lot of the light, or is it fairly focussed? And I don't mean to sound like a bastard, but why did you put the lights inside the normal high/low-beam housings? Isn't the small, round projector lens supposed to aim the light just like the high/low-beam lenses that you had your H4's in? Do you have another normal H4 housing that you could install on one side to show us a side-by-side comparison of the light output on a wall or dark alleyway? Like I said, I don't mean to be a jerk, and I could be wrong, but it seems a bit odd to have a bulb inside a lens inside a lens... but, I could be completely wrong about projectors and how they work...

Fisch... I can't handle it anymore. Seriously. Everytime I think I've finally decided on a look for my 521, you go and design some crazy Datsun that looks so damn good I can't get the style out of my head. I'm going to have to stop looking at your threads before I go nuts...

MikeRL: Thanks for bringing up the legal issues... turns out, it's prohibited here. I've got the vehicle regulations bookmarked for quick referance for the Datsun, and all windows must be safety glass... so, there goes that option. Dan: Thanks for the links... the spray-on protector in the second link looks like it'd be effective, especially since it can be stripped off and reapplied. Datman: Looks like that option would work best for me. Does this company make new windshields, or do they just happen to have some NOS laying around? Let me know if you have the contact info for them. Speaking of contact information... Do we have (or can we make) a sticky with contact information for reliable companies that either have or can get parts for our trucks?

I was considering tint, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't last too long, and it'd be a pain in the ass to replace... I think something like a spray-on laquer would work better. I could apply it once, and if it gets scratched I could just buff/polish it out, and reapply as necessary... I've got a few small sheets of lexan laying around, so I might stop by the shop and pick up some clear-coat in a can and see how it reacts with the lexan and how easily it scratches.

Nice, I wanted one for my truck too, but I'd prefer to have a moonroof...

Redeye: Thanks for the Speedglass suggestion... the only question is, how much "persuasion" will it take? I've got a windshield I can use as a template, and I've got a heat gun (albeit a cheap one) but I'm wondering if I could just bend a sheet to fit without heating it. If it's just a simple side-to-side bend rather than a compound curve it should work. That, and assuming I can get a sheet thin enough to bend. However, just leaving without a coating probably isn't a smart idea. The Plexus cleaner sounds good, but I don't want to have to use it after every drive. Is there some sort of laquer or clearcoat I can apply that'll prevent it from scratching too much? Yellow: I'd take that windshield off your hands, but I'm not really anywhere near Arizona... anyone closer have one they'd be willing to part with?

Alright, I'm not sure if this topic's been covered before, but I think it's time we had a good discussion about windshields... IIRC, most people on here have 620's. I've got a 521, so I don't know what the windshield replacement situation is for all you other guys (And gals), but for me it seems that it's not all that easy to find a replacement without buying a whole truck just to take it. The worst part of it is, there's not really anywhere to find the trucks up here. Hopefully it's different on the other side of the border, but our Datsuns are getting up in age, and with the amount of cars getting scrapped every year because they don't run or you can't find certain parts, and with the way people nowadays drive, finding any windshield will likely become a lot harder in the coming years. So, I propose we try to find a decent alternative... Lexan. Has anyone ever used this stuff? I know it's standard equipment on racers, and I'm pretty sure motorcycles have been using it for years, but what's the likelyhood of using it as a on our cars? I did a bit of reading, and there are shops that make pre-fab windshields for certain cars, but not likely for ours. I also know that it's prone to scratches if not cared for properly, but does anyone know anything about possible coatings? Perhaps some sort of laquer? Also, anyone have any idea on the minimum thickness required to still offer a decent amount of protection? I know 1" thick lexan will stop a 44 calibre handgun round, but how about the odd insect/flying stone/slow bird/human skull? And any idea how much strain a flat sheet would take by being curved/bent before it snapped? I'm considering having a go at getting a big sheet of lexan and fitting it to one of my trucks, but I need to know what I'm getting into first... unless someone knows a company that makes aftermarket windshields to fit 521's (even glass), or there's a lexan/lucite windshield from another car that can be made to fit (620, 510, etc.). Questions, comments, concerns?

Redeye: 280Z hubs are the same? IIRC the Momo 240Z/510/pickup hub is part number 3503. I got it off the Momo Canada Application Chart. Not sure about the 280Z... Momo Hub Application Chart Yep, 280Z hub: part number 3503. You've gotta check under Nissan. Denver: I bought mine for $40... it says Nardi on the front though. Probably pretty similar to yours... medium-coloured wood with a black line painted all the way around the wheel on the front... three spoke aluminium frame. All three spokes are on the bottom half though, angled down a bit... I'll get a pic. I know it's not a current wheel because IIRC it's Personal now (not Nardi), and all the similar wheels I've seen online have the spokes evenly spaced around the wheel. No bolts or horn button for mine either, but the horn button apparently attaches to the hub, not the wheel, and I'm getting all the bolts I need with the hub and adapter. Not a cheap process though... $40 for the wheel, the Momo hub is over $100, probably another $50+ for the horn button and adapter. Not to mention I recently picked up a Recaro seat that I really want to mount in my truck, but it's a race seat and there's so little room in the truck that I'll need a quick-release system for the steering wheel so's I can get in and out of the Datsun. The quick release kit is another $100+... But what's a racing seat without a proper harness? And this was supposed to be a budget build...

Nice... It looks good, but I'd do two different girls, one on each side. Looks good though... Do it up.

Nardi and Personal are the same company now, IIRC. I think it's Personal now. As for adapters... unless you manage to find a used one somewhere, you can't get 'em. Only recourse is modifying a different hub to fit. Momo did make a hub that fit, and you can buy adapters to fit a Nardi/Personal wheel on a Momo hub. However, you might have an issue finding the Momo hubs... either get one used or call a local shop that deals with imports and ask them if they can track one down for you. If all else fails... either get a Grant hub and adapt it to fit a Nardi wheel, or hack the hub out of an old Datsun wheel and modify it. Any route you take it'll probably cost a little money and time. BTW, what's your Personal wheel look like? I just bought one used, and after looking on their website I can't find one that looks the same... super nice though.

Nooo! I had a perfect 521 windshield that I managed to put a huge crack in... seems they're getting pretty fragile. I was going to ask if you had a spare... =P

Alright, well I managed to be an idiot and misread the Momo application chart... it's the 240Z hub that'll fit, not the 240SX. Fortunately I know someone that might get some use out of the hub after all... I think it says on the first page that the Grant hub will work, but I don't think there are any adapters from the Grant hub to a Nardi wheel, so Momo it is. I'm just waiting on the kit to get shipped. Should be a couple more weeks...

Nice! A tonneau cover and push bars would definately be nice... Interesting find.

Old thread, I know, but I've got a Nardi wheel I'm mounting in my 521, and apparently you can't get new Nardi hubs for the Datsuns anymore. However, there is an adapter that'll mount a Nardi/Personal wheel on a Momo hub. From what I've heard, the Momo hubs for a 510 and 240sx (and apparently some older Skylines) will fit the pre-'86 Nissan/Datsun trucks, and should be a lot easier to find. I'm picking up a used Momo hub tonight, so I'll do a quick test fit in my truck and see if the fit is better than a Grant adapter.

A lot of those mirrors look really good... I'm still debating mine, whether to go fender or door mount, chrome or paint, round or rectangular... I've got a mirror off an old VW Bus that I'm considering mounting in the stock antenna location, on the driver's side fender. It's got a pretty good viewing area, so as long as the A-pillar doesn't block too much of the view I'll go for it. As far as the passenger's side mirror goes... My first car didn't have one, and neither did the Datsun when I first got it, so I'm not sure if I'll install one on the door. I am planning on installing a "look-down" mirror off of a semi-truck on the front-right corner of the car. It's a rectangular mirror about the size of a book with a convex lens... if I mount it properly, I should be able to see most of the ground along the front and side of the truck. It'll make it a hell of a lot easier to park without hitting anything or curbing the wheels/tires, and it should look pretty cool if I do it right.

I've got some sort of old metal vent off something that I'm considering using. It doesn't have slats like most vents, but rows of little holes. It looks pretty cool, and I think it'd give the truck a pretty mean look, but I'm wary of a potential decrease in airflow over the rad. Maybe I'll find some way to funnel extra air past the rad from down lower.