79D50

Yeah Mike, that is what I remember reading a long time ago. How is the remedied? I would assume you would need to change a lead/wire somewhere but the question is what does that affect when you make the change? If I buy the housings with the amber lenses could I simply swap out the lenses for my nice OEM's? The wiring should be the same right? Anybody out there have these things? The hard part is finding a nice used set with good gaskets.

'76 620 std cab Who has rear brake light housings and gaskets in good (non rusty / shitty) shape they want to sell me? I cannot find them anywhere and I hear that the housings with the amber turn signals (you find on Ebay) are a pain to wire into the existing harness. Is this true? Anyone have any luck with that. The OEM aren't anywhere to be found.

Got an appraisal for the damage to my truck and will receive a check for $1800 to fix it. I started stripping the truck getting it ready for body and paint on Friday. I also sourced the bumper, valance and fender for the repairs.

Datsun battled with a 540 i and the Datsun lost. The Datsun lost it's bumper, front valance, fender, side marker lights, and paint down the entire lower half of its body. Now it's owner vs. the dipshit's insurance company. Owner will be the victor in that battle. Owner has sourced parts and will repair the Datsun before it goes into body and paint for a full makeover. Datsun and Owner are looking forward to this. Owner recieved the western wheels for the Datsun yesterday. Also, recieved the new headlight buckets with BMW ellipsoid headlights installed as well as new chrome side mirrors. Why the fuck am I talking in 3rd person? lol

My bed is fine...Bodywork can take care of that. The fender, bumper, and lower valance need to be replaced. I will call the arlington yard (thanks for the tip). Still waiting for the insurance company to come appraise the damage. That conversation should be entertaining.

Good Afternoon Everyone..... A BMW 540 decided to pull out in front of me today. He came out of a driveway too far and he clipped my passenger side front end. Gave me a bit of a scare as I barely reacted and tried to steer to the left. If he would have pulled out 1 foot more, I am sure my wife would have been hurt not to mention my dog in the bed. We were both wearing our seat belts as usual. He basically scrapped the entire length of my truck, the front end taking the worst of it. I figure I need a front bumper, valance, fender (for sure)side marker lights, grill was pinched and cracked, rear side marker light was scrapped and cracked and he left his composite bumper paint the full length of the truck. NADA average condition retail (under classic cars) list the truck at $2,025. I am assuming the guys insurance will total this truck due to the parts being hard to research from an agent database perspective. I had a full incident report drawn up by the police which clearly shows the other driver at fault. This was going in for paint and bodywork next week and now that is on hold until I locate the parts to replace it. I need help on that so if you have the parts listed, please PM me. I am worried about getting screwed here as this is an older vehicle. Any suggestions would help...

Sorry...but that car invokes my gag reflex. Should have left the body alone and just concentrated on the running gear. All that car needed is a good paint job, some nice clean wheels and a clean exhaust system. Unless that car is consistently on the track at speeds over 160, all that body work is useless.

hahaha...yeah..sometimes you get lucky. I scour craiglist all the time. When I was hunting for my 620 there were no good trucks to be found and then they started popping up all over. No one can predict craigslist. When I was hunting for my turn signal assembly, I got lucky with a guy in Oregon. After I bought it, 3 popped up in WA. I was so desperate I called Baxter Auto Parts and they said they could get one sent to me for $189 bucks. I think I actually did laugh at the guy and hang up. I paid $75 for a good one used. The harder it is to find the more expensive it gets. Oh well...quality used parts are sometimes a bitch to find...$40 for 2 switches is still fair IMO.

I don't think asking $20 bucks each for clean working switches is outrageous especially for a 30+ old vehicle. Try owning a Mazda Rotary or 1st Gen D50 pickup. Datsuns mass produced and flooded the market like no other. You should be happy they did as parts are somewhat plentiful. Those other trucks mentioned are hard to find and everything is priced high when you do find them. For fun go to your Seattle, Portland or LA's craiglist and type in Datsun under auto parts. Pretty good results right? Now try Mazda Rotary or Dodge D50......good luck! You will get maybe 5 listings if your lucky.

I use Delta Cams in Tacoma. They can get you billet aftermarket CAMS made (if available) and grind new OEM cams to spec. I have used them for years with good results. In fact, my machine shop I use swears by them and Bud's Machine Shop has been in business for over 40 years. My D50 motor from memory has a .282 .435 regrind which is a popular grind for D50 and Starion enthusiasts. BTW - The CAM is Cold Hardened

My truck goes in for paint and body work on the 23rd so I have been looking all over the planet for a set of era correct 6 lug wheels. Yeah, I know....it's been tough. I settled on trying to find a set of US MAGs or Westerns (think dukes of hazard for the westerns). I finally found a set of 15x8 6 lug westerns and get this......all 4 in nice shape for $75. Shipping cost me $111.00 ground. So $186 bucks for 4 era correct wheels....SCORE! I used craiglook to scour the US. Most 6 lug era correct 15" rims are 8.5 - 10 and that is way too wide for what I want. I'll post pics when they arrive on Friday. I will probably take them to my local custom shop and get them checked over and fix any curb rash etc.

I had the same problem on my L18. It has a shaved peanut head and a few other goodies yada yada. I leaned the carb a bit, dropped the idle a bit, and advanced the timing. It has never diesled since. BTW - Most literature will tell you that the proper fuel pressure for a WEBER 32/36 is 2-4 LBS. For a WEBER 38 the books say 3-5 lbs. A lot of different sources say different things. I run my 38 at 5-6 lbs and don't have a problem. The literature is conservative because it is assuming you are a stock motor and without replacing floats and jets they don't want you to have runability issues. CARB Connection, WEBER Direct, and Top End Performance all recommend a higher fuel pressure for best results. The key is tuning i.e. timing, jetting etc. TEP even mentions the use of a fuel pressure regulator is not needed. I disagree with that but like I said, everyone has thier opinion.

Don't do anything stupid to your neighbors or talk to them anymore or act like you care. Here is why...If you are dealing with who I think you are dealing with you do not want to open that can of worms. Keyed car? That's just the beginning. Ignore and act like everything is cool so they don't suspect you. People like that don't ever forget and even if they move away they will cause you grief. Protect your family and property with that advice unless you plan on moving. Every City has ordinance laws. Look them up and then call your city representatives and police. This is very easy. It's in the front of your local phonebook and online. Request to remain anonymous before you describe the situation. One day there will be a notice on thier door to clear the property (if ordinance laws are in violation) or thier cars will be towed. Don't do stupid things to people who clearly don't give a shit becuase they will seek vengence. Doesn't matter how tough or strong or right you think you are. It is never worth the trouble. I'm not just talking out of my ass here. I was in your shoes and did some things that in hindsight I shouldn't have and it cost me slashed tires, spray painted house, lawn jobs etc over and over again. It cost me $$$ to fix those things. Take care of the situation the adult way.

Those bullet wheels are tacky as fuck IMO, in fact I just puked in my mouth. I could totally see them in a MTV Raps video.

Yes....they are specifically for low beam and since you mention it my sealed beama say "Top" on them and I looked for some sort of marking and could not find one. The dead giveaway is that condensation hole. Just for the hell of it I will flip them tonight to see if that helps. My guess is that it will shoot light up instewad of out but we will see. The design makes sense and like I said before the bulbs/center sheild and ballasts are well engineered it is just the hatching or grids that gon't refract/reflect the light all that well. I will draw a sketch of what I am talking about later and post it. I was looking online for a suitable housing and Hella looks to be fairly close in comparison but am unsure of how the bulb would fit and clip in and it is anyone's guess on how that beam would look.

2 feet away does not show the cut off and no they won't be good as projectors in any fashion. They definitly do not splash but are not as clean as a direct diagonal line. Keep in mind they cost $140 dollars. I don't see the point in spending $500-$700 on a HID kit for a $3000 truck. 25 feet out there is a better cutoff but nothing close to the definition in your picture. I thought they were upside down as well when I first turned them on but the condensation hole in the housing as well as the boot faces down. I even called them to confirm. If folks don't like them simply don't buy them. They are not for everyones taste. They were purchased for more light (safety) and they definitely produce. If I want a clean defintion and quality looks, I jump in one of my cars. And Mike, they are equal distances apart in the housing. The picture doesn't show very well. After driving with them for a couple days now I am pleased with the ease of installation etc, but they could have donea better job designing the housings. I got exactly what I paid for. People can make up thier own minds.

Here are some pictures of my HID installation. The kit was very easy to wire and the results were just as I expected if not better. This is the driver side install. For the 620 buckets there is plenty of clearance (at least in my bay) for the low beam housing. The ballast is in place with 3M double sided tack foam. Make sure you mount it right the first time because that tape is sticky. The wires tucked nicely and were zip tied out of the way. The passenger side was a bit different as I mounted the ballast vertically against the fender. It clears the battery in the tray by 1/2". The battery location did not have to be altered in any way and I run a series 24. Here is a crappy daytime pic of the HID vs. Sealed Beam Here is the backside of the housing. The 3 tabs shown need to be shaven to fit snugly in the bucket. I used a dremel with a sanding wheel and this worked well. A razor blade will work in its place if you don't have a dremel. Driver side: Passenger side: Here is a closeup of the housing: Sealed Beam at night: HID at night: Here are the yellow highbeams on. With the HID the Highs cut out the power to the lows so thet high/low come on seperately as oppossed to all 4 on at once: Closeup of my Kyoto Fogs: These were tinted yellow by my local shop. Lights on at night: At dusk. Notice the HID on the right. At night against my garage door. The HID casts a nice crisp horizontal line across the street and a fair bit of side light as well. You will want to spend some time carefully aiming these as you do not want to blind oncoming traffic. Overall, this was a great kit for the money. Installation shown is for the 620 and should be very similar to the 510. The 1200's, Z's, and other models use the 7" housings. I don't take any responsibility for your installation and the pictures shown are for reference only. Install at your own risk.

I will post up some quick pics this weekend.

Good to have you. Let us see those pictures.

For those of you that are interested in the installation, fitment and tuning of this kit, please PM me. On a quick note this kit was well worth the research and phone calls. I could not believe how simple it was to install. The wiring is absolutely plug and play and the quality of the housings, wiring, butt ends, connectors and ballasts...well I am impressed. The technology is just like my Lexus in that there is a shielded down firing 6k Bulb which by the way is a glaring white light. The only time it has a bluish tint is when the ballasts intially ignite the xenon and once they warm up they are exactly like my cars using 6K from the factory. It took all of 30 minutes to install and tuck the wires neatly. It took longer to aim them correclty then it took to do the install. This is well worth your $140 dollars. I will email pics of the lights and my installation to those who are interested. Again, please PM me.

I have no reason to lie or did I lie on this post..Just becuase I edit a post for spelling or anything else is beside the point. I have nothing to prove to any of you period. Again, if you would like to continue your crap, its falling on deaf ears. Could give a shit less what you two think...really...Go do something. Admins...delete my thread..this is now useless.

OK...internet tough guy...hahahaha...your right...do you feel better now!

Admins...just delete this thread. Screw contibuting if I have to sit and listen to dweebs argue on a forum. This is hobby for me and I can live without the BS on a forum or anywhere for that matter.

Are you seriously arguing on a forum and better yet about HID...piss off..Nothing was edited. This topic wasn't created so you could sit in front of your keyboard and act like you know something. Stay out of the thread if your going to be a chump.

Sure I did... I asked and they sell 6K and above.