79D50

I got $1400 dollars for minor fender damage and a broken side marker. The bumper was bent as well. This was minor but I had the following: I pulled some ads from Craiglsist and EBAY plus had the Bill of Sale from when I purchased the truck. I also had all the reciepts form parts and labor (minor stuff). The adjustor was a private contractor (most are as the insurance companies contract privately by region/state)and he was fair. Get another adjustor on site to assess the damage. Since these trucks are so old and not on the books anymore, the only way to make sure you are covered is to keep all of your reciepts for any major parts or restoration work that was done. Then, pay $250 for a private appraisal and then hand all this over to your insurance agent and make sure he/she understands the value and underwrites your policy accordingly. I go through Haggerty (fully restored) and they have pictures, private appraisal and every reciept on the truck. Someone piles into me and they will pay full cost to restore the vehicle back to the condition it was in before the accident. Unfortunately, Haggerty's policies are not the industry standard as they only cover restored or perfect original condition vehicles (Classics and Collectors) Traditional insurance companies will only cover you properly if you spoon feed them what I described above.....

The Offenhauser is still available at $85 The Timing Cover and Crank Pulley is still available at $25 and $40 respectively.

Here is the pic of the new heater core and valve: Seattle Radiator does excellent work and one of the few shope left in Seattle that even restores radiators/heater cores etc. They are building my 3 core radiator from my stock tanks. So, it will have stock fitment but be much more efficient. I recommend these guys to get you fixed seeing there are no NOS heater cores and valves for 620's available.

alright...question is with all this snow, how much will we see...i.e. wet and covered...?

1. Head is sold 2. Weber is sold 3. Bumperettes are sold 4. Timing Cover/Crank Pulley are still available 5. Tire/wheels are sold 6. Offenhauser is still available 7. Tailights are sold

Here are the pics for the bumperettes - $125 One bumperette has a good rubber bumper, the other was removed as it was trashed.

L16 and 18 are the same. Jumping to a L20 there may be difference. I am not 100% on that. Please let me know if you really want the tires as I think I have them sold but the guy still hasn't confirmed. If your local to the NW, pop on by and grab them. I need the space back.

I want to go with you. That is not far away from me at all. What time were you thinking? --Paul

The part will be shipped tomorrow morning via USPS. I will provide the tracking number when I have it.

I also have a nice set for sale I'm never going to do anything with.

Got my reconditioned heater core today. The core itself it brand new. It looks and funtions perfectly. I also had my valve re-built. It has all new seals the the necks were reinforced for longevity. These peices should last another 35 years +. I will have pictures up shortly.

No Worries. I will mark the WEBER 32/36 "Pending Sale"

Yes. My paypal is: prbayha@hotmail.com When I see the funds, I will pack and ship to you. Please provide an address.

$14.50 Shipped + Price of Carb Feel free to call me at 206.617.0649. I want to make sure people level set with me on what they are getting and the condition vs. having an unhappy buyer etc.

I live on the east side and work in seattle.

I saw a change in thier GUI but that is about it. I just floated a few pics in the for sale section and mine came out supersized. Go figure?

No...Just the Weber. It originally sat on the Offy Intake and that is also for sale. I will consider package deals of course. Keep in mind that weber with offy was connected to that head and I heard it run before I took it apart. The block was sold first some time back. --P

You pay shipping. You can calculate it via UPS or USPS - your choice. My zip is 98056. Note - None of this stuff is greasy, dirty or inoperable. I will post prices but am open to REASONABLE, REALISTIC, WELL THOUGHT OUT OFFERS. Instead of OBO let's call this ORRWTO. Pictures are not the best. 1. U67 Head Complete to include valve cover, thermostat with housing, and fuel pump. The internals have a "b" spec L20 cam, and everything is there and complete. The head is virtually new and the CAM and internals look very good. No wierd wear patterns etc. This is a bolt, adjust, and go peice. - $175 ORRWTO and I will get several pics on this at various angles for people. SOLD 2. Offenhauser Intake. This has been bead blasted and port matched to the U67. Has a custom made block off plate (made by yours truly) and has all new fittings for hook up. These are hard to come by in good condition and there is debate whether these are better than a stock L16. I'll leave the decision to you. - $85 ORRWTO The scratches on the backing plate is just the protective film over the aluminum. This has since been polished and bolted on. 4. I have a set of 521 Bumpers (OEM) to include the mounting brackets. These are very presentable, complete and straight. To make them perfect you would want to have them re-chromed but again, they are very presentable. The little rubber nubs are missing. - $125 ORRWTO SOLD 5. 32/36 Weber Downdraft Carb. SOLD !!! It is in working order with good jets and float and has no missing peices. - $60 ORRWTO You can see this sitting on the offy before I cleaned and refurbed it. 6. Set of extra tailights for a 620. These are not broken or cracked. - $35 ORRWTO 7. Bead Blasted and Balanced Crank Pulley - $25 ORRWTO 8. Bead blasted Timing Cover - $40 ORRWTO Note: Thermo housing in pic is gone. 9. 14" 6 lug American Racing Rims with Caps. These are straight but are tired meaning the chrome is peeling etc. Still presentable though. The real value here are the tires. Brand new 225/60/14 Daytona Daytons with 200 miles on them. They still have the nubs. I paid $475 just for the tires alone. - $225 ORRWTO On the truck: I have boxes of more stuff but these are the big items I want gone since I will never use them. You can PM me with offers. Thanks.

Stereo is the following: Focal 5 1/4 Polyglass in custom molded kick panels - These are phenomenal. Ever been front and center at a live concert? Well, these are the best 5 1/4 speakers I have ever heard. You hear every instrument and every vocal. You can even hear the pick scraping the guitar strings. - $250 and worth every penny. JL XD 400/4 - This is the smallest amp you can get with that amount of power. Dimensions from memory are approximately 8x10x2 - $400 JL W3V3 8" Sub - The 8" that stopped the press. This thing goes surprisingly low for an 8. The box is a ported and has a unique bandpass design. Also made by JL. - $195 Kenwood Exceleon KDC X794 - Nothing super special but has 5v preouts and excellent throughput. I didn't need any glitz and glamour and was more after the specs. It does have ipod and USB and very good functionality. I thought this was cheap at $225 Amp Kit and Monster Wire = $50 Total = $1120 Caveat - I know I could have saved money here and looked around at other retailers including Amazon. I had no problem spending this money because I wanted to support the owner of the shop I bought this at as he is establishing his business etc. I have no problem supporting locally owned small businesses and in reality would have only saved a couple of hundred bucks by sourcing it elsewhere. The fitment of the amp and box is killer behind both buckets and it sounds really good for such a small enclosure (cab). Morel and Focal have the best car audio speakers (minus subs) of any other manufacturer IMO. You get what you pay for. Dude...I was at the truck tonight and was finalizing a few bits but did not snap any pics becuase the shop was packed and the truck was stuffed into an adjacent bay. I am hoping for final completion this weekend in respects to getting it home and out in the open so I can flood you with pictures.

That is not me in the pictures and that was the first round of body/primer work before the first mock up. Long process. Too damn long. But, the guys I used that you see in those pics were not professionals and I had to get a lot of the work done over again - not much, but some. Live and learn on that one. Perspective on Seattle Trade Costs: My front bumper customized and chromed is costing nearly $600. There are only 3 reputable shops in the greater seattle area and I have used 2 out of the 3. That is just the bumper. You couldn't get 2 seats fully restored and covered for $400 bucks unless you want them to fall apart in 2 years. Mine were stripped, the frames and springs fully reconditioned, and then refoamed and covered. My audio equipment cost me nearly $1200 minus the install. The alarm was $300. Right there is $1500 in audio and alarm. Nothing is cheap in Seattle. I sourced and researched and hunted for good prices without sacrificing the level of quality that I want. Full Rotiserrie Resto's on this side of the country cost far north of 20k. More perspective: Here are costs just on rubber alone for the truck. BTW - None of this is cheap aftermarket parts. They are either OEM or NOS quality parts sourced from all over the world and bought from private party. Some are slightly used and reconditioned by me. Windshield Rubber Seal = $120 Rear Window Rubber Seal = $85 Window Felt Runners = $65 Outer Squeegees = $120 Inner Squeegees = $90 Weatherstripping on Doors = $100 Door Drain Vents = $25 Door Stops = $15 Hood Bumper Stops = $25 Tailgate Stops = $15 Plastic/Rubber Pinch Weld Molding = $12 Rear Bumper Peices = $30 Windshield Wiper Boots = $12 (really?....these things are tiny too) Tires = $600 Compression Grommets for Custom made Bed Bolts = $8 Total = $722 dollars my man just on rubber. You add in the tires and that is $1322. $722 just to make sure the damn thing doesn't leak. Unbelievable how it adds up. That was fun..Let's do it again. This time we will take on the chrome and polishing. I have a 9" bench grinder at the house and for one it is not big enough for all the peices and for two it doesn't do the job of the industrial equipment. Let's concentrate on just the exterior shall we? Front Bumper - Customized and triple chrome plated = $600 Side Marker Trim Bezels Polished(4)= $40 Headlight Bezels on the Grill Polished(4) = $60 Side Mirrors Polished (these were new so I just had a quick buff done)= $25 Door Handles Rebuilt and triple chrome plated (2) = $125 Total = $850 Keep in mind this is just a truck. Imagine a 1959 Chevy Impala and what it would take to rechrome that trim package. WOW! This time we will do powdercoating. 1974 Western Turbines 15x8 6 lug = $70 from a dude in Wisconsin Shipped to Seattle = $120 Straightened/Shoulders re-welded/Balanced and Sandblasted at Seattle Tire and Wheel = $575 Powedercoated = $150 Gorilla Mag Shank Lugs with Washers direct from Gorilla = $80 Sandblast and Powdercoat Lugs and Washers = $50 Total= $1045 This ended up being closer to $1500 at the end becuase I messed up and had a guy paint the damn things and then changed my mind so add in another round of sandblasting and paint/prep. BTW - Powdercoating is the way to go. This screw up was on me. Bad choice. Shit happens. So, the conclusion of this little narrative is that even though I am resourceful and have managed this project close, it still costs a lot of money to do a vehicle correctly.

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I've been busy sourcing the last few bits and peices and the truck is nearly ready to drive off. My gas tank is being hot tanked and lined as we speak and my heater core and valve are getting re-built at Seattle Radiator. The finish line keeps getting pushed out as I keep adding things to the truck. I have designed a custom tonneau cover and am building the frame out of 1/4" boxed aluminum rails. The top will be rhino lined ABS plastic. I will share my design once it is done. Until the motor goes in I am done messing around with suspension setups although I have a fully sandblasted, rebuilt, and painted D21 front end, Belltech 2" drop spindles, and BeeBani's custom made upper control arms. Until the motor gets swapped and I have an idea of weight and fitment etc, the suspension and exhaust will wait. I actually think it looks good the way it sits now but with the added power the suspension setup with 4 wheel discs is a requirement. I will take some pics this week and post - I know, I know...I've been bad on this. My chrome work also finishes up next week and I customized the front bumper a bit so it is taking longer than expected. I finally sourced the 5/8" knock on or commonly called pinch weld molding. With the custom headliner and thick carpet I needed 5/8" vs the OEM 1/2". Here is a tip for folks needing door sills for the 620. Go get a set of 1984-1988 Golf or Rabbit door sills. Get them out of the 4 door as you don't have to trim them. They literally snap right in over the pinch weld and look killer. Got that tip from a JY dog. FYI - to those seriously interested in rebuilding your truck..Haggerty has me fully appraised and insured for 20K on the truck. It costs me $29.00 per month and I have thier 50 mile towing plan. It really is cheap considering the cost to build the damn thing and it covers me fully with no questions asked if some pap smear piles into me. I don't know why I just though of pap smear...hahaha...it's the second cousin to douche bag...L8tr

All I needed was the length. I didn't take the measurement before leaving the truck. All but 2 threaded correctly.