79D50

Yes...that was my thoughts as well because the lower part of the A87 is kind of hard to read as opposed to others I have seen... My butt dyno sucks because my DD has 340 HP...but it seems to be pretty quick. I leaned out the carb a bit and it seems she picked up a little more umph on the top end. I am not really sure what all has been done to this motor....The PO wasn't exactly talkative or informative even though I fired off a million questions.

Lynch420 is the weiner.....LOL...I saw that and said WTF is that. Yes, the plug on the 4th runner should hook to the brake booster. Do you think this is why my brakes are a bit weak? The drums and shoes are virtually brand new with little over 10k miles on them. In reverse it doesnt want to stop and I really have to get into it. Perhaps the PO thought you would get more vacuum out of the back part of the intake????? Hainz...I was mistaken from memory..The vent tube is pretty much parallel to the ground and as you can see it is an L18...Hmmmm. From the looks of it, REDDAT's PCV hose just might work.

Alright Bob..Get ready to be jealous....LOL... Here are those flames.... :eek: Thats my black lab puppy "Lucy." She is only 6 months old and loves the truck. Also take note of the time in which the pic was taken this afternoon. Coincidence? hmmm :mellow:

Here is my dirty Hi-Rise adapter. I am glad I took the picture because as you can see, I am missing a nut. I will probably take this all off, clean it up , and re-install.

Alright....$100 internet bucks to the first guy that tells me what is wrong with this picture. After discussing this with you all and looking at my 2.6 for reference, this doesn't make sense and probably explains a few quirky things on the truck. :eek:

Either type will work. Make sure the gaskets fits well. Not that you would, but I have to say it because I have seen people do it....they are dry fit so for God's sake don't use RTV. The one piece hi rise adapter is what I have on both motors and they are easy to install and add a bit better breathing....You should be able to poke around the internet and source these easily. top end performance weber direct ... to give a few examples

It is actually an L18 - It does not poke directly our of the block i.e. parallel with the ground. It angles upwards at a 45 degree +/- angle. So REDDAT's ad is for the L16. This now makes sense..Well, I guess I will FAB something together and post some before/after pics for your viewing pleaseure.

Your white truck is very similar to mine aside from the hooks and it being a short bed. You'll be jealous of the ultra gay purple flames I have on mine :blink: Do you want to part with those mirrors....hahahaha :D Anybody have those mirrors for sale? I put new wheels on mine and will post up a pic later today... BTW - Welcome!

This is my intake and I have a fresh PCV valve new in the box waiting for install. I looked at EBAY again and talked to REDDAT and he has one advertised that fits 510, 521, and he lists '73 620. I pinged him and he responded that it will fit the '76. Here is the ad: Can anyone confirm fitment? It would appear to work from my angle. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370302094393&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

Thanks Hainz..I will be building that hose this weekend. I figure a brass reducer will work i.e. 1/4 to 3/4 (estimates for conversations sake) with some hose and clamps. I scoured EBAY and found no OEM hoses for this particular solution. The bitch is making this look like it belongs in the engine bay - aesthetics are important to me. It will be functional but fugly.

I know not to block it off. I did do a search but didnt use PCV...was late :mellow: I know to run the hose to the PCV but what I was looking for was an answer to the where the port on the bottom of the WEBER air cleaner goes. I assume that might route to the top of the CAM cover. Are you saying to put a open breather right off the WEBER filter...? I have next to no blowby...only 30k on motor. I will check EBAY for the hose. Thanks!

Quick Question: The block ventilation tube that comes out of the drivers side underneath the intake towards the firewall....that is suppossed to connect to the intake PCV valve. That tube just blows hot fumes in to the engine bay and into the cab choking me out. What have some of you done here? The hoses are long gone..Anyon ehave pics of what they have fabbed?

I searched with multiple key words for this info and l could find was the dimensions for a STD Bed @ 59ish x 64ish. Anybody have the long bed dimensions handy? I am shopping for canopys. Thanks in advance! :D

I am glad this was brought up. I have a similar issue with the dimmer switch. The switch only dimms the Headlight and Windsheild Wiper Switches and not the dash lights. I really don't care too much because they are dim as is and making them dimmer would make it hard to see. As I learn more and improve the truck, I would like to know if it is bad wiring (doesnt seem so from first glance - no chops/splices/tape) or is it a bad switch? BTW - I figured out the domelight issue. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=17732The power wire that comes from the harness to provide power to the door switch which powers on and off the domelight.....well, the guy spliced power from that to run the damn CD player. So, the only way the light comes on is if the truck is running and the radio is on. Then you can open and close the door and the light works...How do you fix this mess? Where should the switch be getting power and be terminated? Sorry for jacking the thread.

Let me make it real easy for you non-search members. The instructions come with the kits. You would have to be a 3 fingered retard to mess it up. No offense to those who are mentally challenged.

Seattle is experiencing an artic blast from Alaska and Canada. It was 20 degrees this morning at 5:00 am and is expected to be in the low teens for the rest of the week. Brrrr... Like a dumba$$ I washed the truck late yesterday afternoon not thinking it would freeze overnight. My new locks were frozen because the water never dried out of the keyhole. Nothing is more fun than breaking out the butane torch at 4:45 am to defrost your locks. hahahahaha...then I had to pull like a mule to get the damn door open because it was frozen shut. I am glad I didn't rip my new door seals or break the damn door handle. Great way to start the day. Just thought I would share.

cost me $46.00 from Hong Kong. They were incredibly easy to install. Had to make some minor adjustments with the dremel but ease of installation, well, was easy!! They work great and look great. If you buy them for your 620 use the #2 rod attachment. It is an OEM fit and function.

When I bought this truck everything worked due to the previous owner replacing the all the wiring and fitting in a new fuse box etc. Here's the issue I can't track down. The interior dome light works when it wants to. I checked the door switch - good. I checked the wiring behind the light - good. So what else could it be? Also, my turn signals/hazards work great. Thing is the green arrows on the dash sometimes light up and sometimes don't. Sometimes the lever clicks back on it's own and sometimes not. The relay is good. I imagine the turn signal switch itself under the cover is bad? It looks to be ok.. Same goes for the little light under the hood. Switch is good. Sometime turns on and sometimes doesn't. Thoughts?

I fished commercially for about 10 years. I spent a lot of time on Purse Seiners in the SE District of Alaska. I dragged on the Unimak Enterprise out of Dutch in 1995. Tyson Seafoods owned that boat. Tyson bowed out of the industry when the floor fell through in 1997-98. I fished for Squid and Sardines in California which we called pleasure seining. I ended up talking to some guys when I was in Ilwaco and it's good to see the industry still alive and kicking. If you're interested in the motor we can talk some more.

I was thinking around $250 and I am in Seattle.

It is located in Gig Harbor. I noticed your location. I was just in Ilwaco/Longbeach for Thanksgiving. You also list Seattle. Are you a crabber?

I want a non-louvered as well. i don't care if it is chromed or not as I would paint mine the same color as the Truck.

I am throwing this up to see if there are any interested parties before I list this locally. I have a running L18 with approximatley 50-60,xxx miles on it. It has a Weber 32/36, Offy Intake, mild head work etc. It has no exhaust manifold. It had a header but I took it off becuase one tube was smashed and gave it to DATDOUG. Taking Realistic Offers - Remember, it runs well and has no leaks or BS modifications. The engine is located in Washington State. You can PM me.

I am throwing this up to see if there are any interested parties before I list this locally. I have a running L18 with approximatley 50-60,xxx miles on it. It has a Weber 32/36, Offy Intake, mild head work etc. It has no exhaust manifold. It had a header but I took it off becuase one tube was smashed and gave it to DATDOUG. Taking Realistic Offers - Remember, it runs well and has no leaks or BS modifications. The engine is located in Washington State. You can PM me. This is posted in the classified section as well.

There is a similar thread that was posted a couple weeks back. Did you put the motor mounts on backwards? This will shift the entire assembly forward. Key clue if you did would be that the tranny was a pain to get mounted since it was too far forward. If you go electric you can save a few HP and get better cooling. Check into http://www.flex-a-lite.com/