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I have two 520 radiators; one with a cracked top tank, the other with a leaking core. My intention was to combine them into one good radiator. (I recently found a NOS radiator, so I abandoned the combining project.) PM me if you are interested in taking up this project. Keith

I just returned from Tractor Supply and purchased a new Screen & Gasket Kit #027063. I happen to see a fuel bowl with gasket #027178 that is a near duplicate for OEM. My link

Sherwin Williams Retail (not to be confused with Sherwin Williams Automotive) has a product called "All Surface Enamel Oil Base" Link They have the machine to color match a sample. If you decide to go with an oil paint, this is a good alternative. Keith

Beautiful!

Dropped the drive shaft and pulled the transmission. Started to remove 40+ years of grime from case. Located a new fuel filler tube at local parts house. Visited 2 parts houses to locate new fuel strainer for glass fuel bowl, no luck. Cleaned alternator and starter housings (after verifiyng they are operable). Painted 1st coat of paint on kick panels.

I am interested in the visors, do you have a photo? Thanks, Keith

I am rebuilding a 1966 520 and need to refinish the original steel wheels. The prior owner painted the wheels blue (body color). After removing the blue paint I see some gray (possible primer) on the front of the wheels and black paint on the back of the wheels. After looking at various photos of 1966 Datsun trucks, it would appear that the correct color of the front of the wheel is a blue-gray. (Most of the photos have the chrome hub cap, and the difference in the cap and the wheel suggests that the wheel color was not silver.) Two questions: Were original wheels one color on the front and back sides? Has anyone color matched the wheel paint? Thanks, Keith

Also interested in the visors. Also need: steering wheel retractable antenna hub caps vinyl/rubber floor mat tail gate chain rear view mirror Thanks, Keith

If there are not takers for the engine, would you sell the valve cover, carb and alternator separately? Thanks, Keith

Interesting vent on the exhaust manifold! Does this vent to the air cleaner housing? Please keep me in mind when you decide to sell some of the excess parts. I have a project waiting in the wings. Keith

The fibreboard came from Home Depot. I also purchased Kraft Tan Wateproof Panelboard (My link from a local upholstery shop. I was considering using the panelboard for the door panels (since it is already moisture-resistant). However, this material is designed for sewing door panels and therefore is less dense (and lighter). Since I have the fibreboard and am already applying polyurethane to the kick panels, I may not use the panelboard. The window fuzzy strips are on a spool at a local hardware store. They are not planning to purchase additional stock (it has been on their shelves for 5-10 years) since the demand is so low.

Sounds like a good find. Did the J15 have the carb attached? (I have read that the Nikki that is on the J13 does not have the capacity to move enough air for the larger combustion chambers of the J15.) Can anyone verify this? Keith

Here is a photo of the original shelf panel in the 520. My link Here is a photo of the shelf panel and kick panels I cut from fibreboard. I have coated it with 2 coats of polyurethane. My next step is to scuff the polyurethane, which will allow the color coat to stick. My link Here is one of the fuzzy strips for the doors (there are four in all) that I am restoring. I removed the old fuzzy material and located a similar fuzzy material at a local hardware store. (This material is sold by the foot and used for screen and storm doors.) The material is about ½ the width of the original strip, so I am using two parallel pieces to ensure the glass has plenty of surface area for contact. My link Keith

I am fabricating new kick panels and parcel shelf using the old ones as templates. The prior owner painted the original panels when they "repaired" the floorboards. My question; Does anyone know if the original panels were painted by Nissan the exterior color of the truck (blue in my case) or where they painted black? Thanks, Keith

Dropped the exhaust manifold off at the body shop for them to sand blast and apply high temp coating. Continued to rebuild fuel pump, found gasket material for this step. Polyurethaned the new door panel board and kick panels.

spriso, Is there a website that provides the diagrams for the JDM 520/521? Thanks, Keith

I have two 520 radiators; one with a cracked top tank, the other with a leaking core. My intention was to combine them into one good radiator. (I recently found a NOS radiator, so I abandoned the combining project.) PM me if you know anyone interested in taking up this project. Keith

Do you have the sun visors? Thanks, Keith

Looking good. I thought you were also working on a 240Z. What is that status of that project? Keith

As I am reassembling the J13, I found that I lack a J13 Distributor mounting plate. I have found a partial image of one at My link Does anyone have one available that they can trace for me? Thanks, Keith

Does anyone have a J13 Distributor mounting plate available for sale? Item #5 on this diagram: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun520/Datsun520521Index/Electrical1300J13/Distributor/tabid/1409/Default.aspx Thanks, Keith

I used the following: Connecting Rod .25mm/.010 Clevite CB967P (FYI the Nissan Forklift part number is 12118-B3000) Main .25mm/.010 Clevite MS1055G (FYI the Nissan Forklift part number is 12233-01W00) Keith

Bearings are the same. Diffierence are in the valves and pistons/rings. Also, a Nikki J13 carb may not feed enough air for the larger combustion chamber. Keith

If you have a chance, look thru the photo set. I have been working on accumulating the parts since July 2010. It has been very time consuming cleaning up the old parts. The pistons are .20 overbore. The deck and head were straight. The pushrods and one exhaust valve needed replacement. Unfortunately, there has never been a modern replacement to the rope and felt crank seals. I thought someone would have developed a neoprene or other material replacement. I expect the new seals will leak in about 2-3 years, once the felt or rope become saturated with oil. Well, that is 1950-1960 tech.

I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on the engine rebuild. I have taken some photos but am having difficulty imbedding them in a post. Many of the engine parts are original, some are used, and some are BMC (MG/Metropolitian)