jboulukos

Thank you. Going back to question 3. So timing is adjusted by loosening the distributor set screw and moving the distributor before locking the screw in place?

3. Since all 1978 B210 models are equipped with electronic, breaker less ignition systems, does this mean that dwell adjustment does not need to be made?

Picked up this tune up test kit today. A few questions... 1. Is the '78 B210 a positive ground vehicle or negative ground vehicle. This effects how the dwell/tachometer leads will be set up. 2. When adjusting the idle, this is done by turning the idle adjusting screw on the carb, with the dwell/tachometer set up on ignition coil?

Drained the coolant from the radiator today. Added half coolant and half distilled water, only took approximately 4 liters total fluid mixture. Took it for a drive, opened cap, radiator remained at the full level. According to the 1978 B210 service manual, the cooling system for automatic transmission has a capacity of 5.7 liters (6 quarts). Is it possible there was approximately 1.7 liters that remained in the system after draining the radiator for more than 5 minutes with the radiator barely dripping when I put the drain plug back on prior to filling?

go to photobucket website, register, upload pics, copy URL of each pic, paste to ratsun reply...there's a tutorial on this site, FAQs etc...

fantastic looking and great color!

Fantastic!

Is the coil wire the wire in the center of the cap?

Prior to performing a compression test, does the ignition system need to be disconnected? If so, how?

Hilarious! I agree. Daily driving or a single long drive in these seats can cause all kinds of back pain and dysfunction and are just plain uncomfortable new, let alone disintegrating. I'm a sucker for originality so I'm trying to make some sort of plan to throw foam in. I'd like to Por-15 the floor and install a carpet kit but don't want the horsehair dust crumbling out of the seats like it currently does.

Hello all, I have some original vinyl seats in my '78 B210 that have thinned down and dried up horsehair inside. Has anyone taken off the vinyl slips and added some foam using the same vinyl coverings? I was wondering if there are basic seat bottom and seat back foam inserts that can be purchased and installed without using upholstering services. I have somewhat intact vinyl just the cushioning/horsehair has broken down inside. What are your thoughts?

here's the obvious tags on each carb. I found some faint numbers etched on one but not legible. There are different types according to the '78 Service Manual but I am uncertain where to locate a "DCH" number on the carbs.

Thanks! and Agreed on the mechanic comment. I look at it like this... That guy charging $250 for some basic compression/leak down/pressure testing and then a $4500 quote with refusal to do the head gasket without full rebuild Plus Awesome Ratsun encouragement and problem solving through forum questions and responses Equals my change in thought processes towards auto mechanics and a closer more meaningful connection to my B-210. So, I am thankful for the mechanic because it lit a fire under my ass. Some questions on your input... -where are the filters you replaced located? -where is the idle circuit you are referring to?

Will do, thanks for the great advice. I have looked over the Hitachi Rebuild post in the "How to" section. I want to post questions as they come up. Here we go... Is there a way to tell what year the carb is from/what model car, etc...? Were there different carbs for automatic versus manual trans?

Here's the 3 extra carbs I grabbed from a part-out. They look pretty crispy. Is it worth choosing the cleanest one and rebuilding it? The one on the right seems clean. Thinking about putting some Pink Floyd on the turntable and getting at it. I have a carb rebuild kit as well. Any suggestions? things to avoid? things to be careful of?

Update I sprayed carb cleaner into the anti-dieseling solenoid hole and on the inside pin of the solenoid itself. This resulted in a slight decline in hesitation at initial acceleration that returned to no effect after a few stop-and-go's. The solenoid wire seems so fragile and I feel those 3 wires get completely baked between the valve cover and the carb. Does anyone put a sleeve on the wires or protect them in anyway? poor little wires

I'm very new to all of this. I haven't looked at timing or the distributor yet because I frankly don't know how. I certainly will do that but will have questions and I'll need to study in order to understand what to do.

No way. Idle time is death to a car and the human body. I turned to Ratsun and got dirty. Immediately started learning so I could change the cylinder head gasket out. I did a lay person examination with a straight edge and feeler gauge. No pressure test was performed. I have read that in many cases the head is fine and not warped. I winged it a little by not getting it checked. Success on the head gasket change was achieved to my understanding...no overheating, no loss of coolant from radiator, no white coolant smelling smoke out the tailpipe, normal color oil and oil consistency.

Besides going out to buy a manual oil pump, are there household items I can use to add oil to the cylinder for the wet test?

I'll also do a compression test and give a report.

I will start with the cleaner spray and then go from there. I have 3 extra A14 carbs picked up from a car being parted out. I am tempted to open one up and do a test run for learning purpose.

Great. I just read more about this part of the carb system. Thanks. Is the idle cut solenoid different than anti-dieseling solenoid or are these two terms interchangeable/same?

Last month I took it into a shop, had a leak down test, compression test and pressure test of the cooling system. Got charged $240 and was told to drive it home slowly and not to ever drive it. The mechanic didn't want to fix the head gasket without completely rebuilding the lower engine and quoted me $4500. I was never given an exact measurement on the compression and leak down tests. Since then, I've studied this forum and the service manual. With the help from Ratsun, I became inspired and motivated so I changed the head gasket, and adjusted the valve clearance in the process. The last full tune-up I have had was in 2009. This feathering problem was present before and after that tune-up. I plan on giving the car a tune in the upcoming weeks. Not certain how to check a distributer. I don't know where the vacuum advance i located. Definitely starting from the drawing board but I gotta start somewhere.

Great weather in Chicagoland + newly rebuilt alternator = a bunch of cruising around in my blue B. Since the day I purchased this car in 2009 in Kent, WA, it has required the driver to do a particular "feathering" of the gas pedal to accelerate from a stop. I remember the previous owner teaching me prior to me taking her home to Bremerton. To this day, the gas pedal requires a partial and quick 'tap tap' prior to a continued depression of the pedal to start moving. If the feathering is not done, and the driver begins a gradual depression of the gas pedal, the car hesitates a second or two and may die at times. Back in '09 and '10 I had a few mechanics look into it. They always focused on the carb (original). Although vacuum leaks and carb-to-manifold gaskets were attended to, nobody could figure out the initial acceleration issue. I have a working anti-dieseling solenoid. I recently changed the fuel filter and new spark plugs and there's no change. I am thinking it may be an inner carb issue. The fuel pump is original Kyosan Denki. I have read that simply disassembling the fuel pump, cleaning off the diaphragm and adding a new gasket is enough to service it. I have not done the recommended fuel line pressure tests yet. I'm trying to narrow it down a bit prior to purchasing more diagnostic equipment. Another symptom, although not certain is related, occurs while maintaining a steady speed say 45mph. The car's power will slightly go in and out. Not quite hesitating, just not smooth, and consistent. Maybe a fuel line pressure issue? Carb needing cleaning? Anybody experience the same issues?