jboulukos

Put the rebuilt starter in today and the car didn't start. Same outcome, silence when turning the ignition to start the car. All electronics work (radio, wipers, lights, defroster, seat belt warning light, hazards, headlights). I've tried both ignitions I have. All terminal are cleaned with terminal brush. Battery is still holding 12.64 volts. No wires in the steering column look burnt. Fuses are new and in place. Alternator is newly rebuilt. Fusible link replaced. The only thing unaccounted for is the light smoke from the steering column of which I cannot see any wiring that looks burnt or smells burnt. Any other suggestions on what I can do? Are there people who specialize in auto electronics solely? Would a bad coil cause this issue? 1 year old battery with cleaned terminals, tightened, new fusible link Fuses, all new hooked up other ignition, both give same outcome, silence with turning to start

Where is the ground strap on the engine located specifically?

Yeah i figured the Hitachi was best. I took it to the guy who did my alternator. He's going to rebuild it.

Hey Mike -battery terminals all clean using battery terminal wire brush, cables tight -not certain where the ground strap is located? elaborate on this and I'll make sure it's secure -got the starter off today With PB blaster plus these tools, I was able to remove the starter without raising the car using the 14mm wrench and hammer for lower bolt and 14mm wrench, hammer and 14mm socket for upper bolt. Not a pro, but frayed wiring doesn't look quite right Again, not a pro. Are these teeth worn?

pretty solid!

Just got a 14mm wrench and PB blaster. If that doesn't work, will an electrical impact wrench or a breaker bar fit?

Today I tried to test voltage to the starter while key was being turned. The display for voltage was changing so rapidly that I cannot describe it in words. It's unclear. Many times the multimeter doesn't give a straightforward measurement. Battery was 12.68, starter was all over the place. So my next line of defense was to remove the starter and take it to a parts house for testing/rebuilding. I thought that was a great idea except I could not get it off. Very difficult to reach bolt placement of both nuts. Unable to break the nuts loose from top or bottom. Not sure what else I can do. Any thoughts on how to gain access to the bolts and have enough force/lever arm to actually remove the starter? I used sockets, sockets with extenders, adjustable wrenches. My only thought is to go to autozone to rent a long lever torque wrench however I'm certain the head of the wrench won't allow the socket to get onto the starter nut.

Thanks. trying to button everything up.

I recently purchased an EGR block off delete plate from Ebay. Here's pictures of the old home-made one and the new one. It was listed as a 1975-83 280Z block off plate and also fits the B210. Came with a gasket too. Old New

other info learned: - The plastic ends of the female connectors I have on the fusible link I've made are Not meant to be heated with a heat gun. I thought they might shrink to be a tight seal around the wire however they don't respond to heat in that fashion. If anyone needs a 20 gauge/.5mm squared fusible link, I can send you one. Just send me a message.

Awesome. Thank you kindly! So if there is a starter problem, is it best to take to a rebuild shop?

Ok excellent. I could probably cut a slot with a dremel tool. I should get the ignition off as there are 2 other wires that lead from it and those don't seem to be removable in order to sway with extra ignition. However, I did unplug the old ignition switch at both plugs and tried the new one while holding it in my hand. Same outcome, no start or sound at all.

1. where exactly to put the black and red probes? 2. what should I expect voltage to read? 12.7 like the battery? Thanks

I was able to get the newly made fusible link on with using the original male ends. I tried to take the original ignition switch off however there are not standard slot screwdriver bolts as there are on my extra one, the bolts are blank. So I took off the wiring from the old ignition and replaced with new. The car made normal buzzing noise (fasten seat belt buzz), wipers worked normal, radio worked normal (no buzzing noise through radio speaker), hooked up each of 2 hazard light switches and both worked normally. The only think left here is that the car won't start, no noise at all from under the hood with turning of the key. I'm going to check the fuse box with the multimeter now. Any thoughts on what to look for next? Maybe my starter is completely kaput?

This makes more sense. A few more questions... 1. Should the black terminal always be on the B? 2. Am I looking for 0 for good continuity? 3. So for the On and the Start there are multiple places to check. Black on B and then check each other letter with the red? 3.

So black on B, and red goes where exactly?

Fusible link made. Picked up the male and female connectors and 10 feet of wire at Napa. I just have to use a heat gun on the yellow female connectors to seal to the wire and will crimp on the male connectors to the existing wiring.

I'm currently attempting to test continuity in the new and old hazard light wiring as well as the new ignition. Old ignition needs to be removed and tested. The Service Manual has good pictures on how to test, I just need to figure out where to put the multimeter leads. For example, in the ignition, I can put the red on prong "A" but where do I put the black? and does the key need to be turned to "ACC" on the ignition to test "A" ? Zero ohms is good continuity correct? meaning absence of short circuit?

Wipers weren't on. Looked at it closer today. Theres two ignition connections, both looking clean and smelling normal. After a few minutes of investigating I started loosing light and my phone died rendering my without a flashlight. Still need to make the fusible link. Went to the Nissan dealership to examine the link they have. The connectors seems slightly larger than the originals. I have a few pieces with me the check with the multimeter (hazard wire, extra ignition switch). I noticed there was one connection that had no place to plug in...leading from firewall towards steering column. Might be a tachometer connector (?), which I don't have in my instrument panel.

I will certainly unplug any wire connectors and inspect with sight and smell. I do have another ignition with a key so that is a plus. Let me ask you this. Could a faulty ignition wire effect how the wipers operate?

Great explanation. I'm learning more. Where can I locate the fusible link for the ignition? Or is that the actual wiring leading from the ignition/key mechanism?

Yes. The smoke first came from ignition switch area, seeping through the hazard light manual switch on top of the steering column plastic shell surround. I will be checking the fuses soon. The ignition, correct me if I'm wrong, runs off a combination of fuses. I looked on the fuse box cover and ignition seems to be linked to and relies upon a couple/few fuses to be working. The wipers not working and then working very slowly following a fuse change could also be a culprit. I gotta get the fusible link situation figured out. Going to Nissan tomorrow to check the ".5 green" fusible link they have in the system for a 1980 Datsun 810 L24E engine, part # 24161-28500. Also going to Napa parts to see if they have the connectors for building my own link. don't want to get the Nissan one for $13.46 just to have it blow on me during trouble shooting the issue. Napa sells the 20 gauge/.5mm squared/40 amp fusible link wire only, at a minimum, 9 feet for $7 something.

Great explanations. It helps make sense of it all. I will soon examine the wires associated with the wipers/ignition and get the fusible link stuff. I'm hoping to not have to take off the dash front or the dash pad but will do it if need be. I still need to check things with the multimeter. Have been busy with 4th of July weekend stuff. Guns N Roses at Soldier Field tonight. Smoke on the Water

Agreed. I haven't located it yet. Gotta break out the multimeter. A few questions... Is a short circuit considered a compromise in the wire? a break? wire touching something when it shouldn't be? a break in the wire casing? I'd like to buy about 8 inches of fusible link and make 2 but I'm not certain where I could get the metal ends.

Ok, got a game plan. I took off the old plastic connectors and will reuse them once I obtain a green fusible link. Took some trial and error but I was able to bend the metal ends more flat and then slide them out of the plastic housing. Tomorrow I'll be checking the fuses and possible the wiring for the wipers. Slow and sure. Green wire sheath, thin fusible link wire, original plastic connectors to be reused.