jboulukos

Right on!

Thanks for the confidence and all the help. You're right. Just because a mechanic has a lift and some tools doesn't mean they know jack squat about the ins and outs of the Datsun. They'd read the service manual just as I did to get the information such as torque specs and valve lash measurements. I'm very excited and feel empowered and a sense of increased pride doing the work myself. It's things like this that make me excited. It's too bad there are many professions, some mechanics included, who scam people or just overcharge for services. I'm a physical therapist and I'm ashamed that it happens in my profession as well. I have learned that ethics have no place in American business. Scamming is the goal. As far as cost for the job...I bought the head gasket, manifold gasket, water outlet gasket, 4 new spark plugs, a few metric sockets, brake cleaner spray, 5 quart jug of motor oil, oil filter, some distilled water, coolant, and feeler gauge. I used torque wrenches from Autozone, free if returned within 90 days. Without paying myself hourly, as I took my sweet time reveling in the fun of the process, I may have spent $80 total. With all the enjoyment I've had, the process has been priceless. I look forward to learning more and have more projects thought out for the future!

Alright, I was able to use a 7/8 inch socket at the alternator pulley to turn the engine for TDC 1 and 4. After adjusting the valves hot, I started the car up. I noticed there was some "tapping" noise from the valves. This is a sign they were adjusted too loose, correct?

I completed the head gasket job and took the car for a 15 mile drive. Being that this is my first time adjusting valves, there is a slight "ping" noise while running. I also couldn't get one of the exhaust pipe nuts completely secure to the manifold. When I first took off the exhaust pipe, 2 nuts came off fine. The last one came off but i took the entire bolt with it. Now when I try to attach it, the nut won't screw on all the way. Here's the good news..Upon starting her up, there was some white smoke from the tailpipe, as expected. After running the car a few minutes, the smoke decreased. I then took the car for a 15 mile drive at speeds up to 45 mph. Temperature during the drive stayed directly between "H" and "C." When I arrived home I observed for white smoke and there was zero. Checked the coolant level and it was full/normal. Besides having a few loose ends such as re-adjusting the valves hot again, and getting the one exhaust nut/bolt completely on, I feel the job has been successful. Mucho Thanks to Ratsun! datzenmike Lockleaf B210GX TENDRIL Draker LenRobertson Ratwagon1600 and all others! I appreciate it.

AM Radio! replaced shifter handle everything works intact dash pad found in junkyard outside of Portland I always dug the contrast of the blues, black dash and white headliner white headliner...cleaned with a magic eraser rear seats front seats could use new foam, driver's seat is pretty ripped up #dashpad

After adjusting valves in TDC 1, and upon turning crank one full turn, will the intake valve of cylinder 4 go up for TDC 4 just as the intake of cylinder 1 goes up during TDC 1?

Can you double check the pulley nut size for me?

Thanks for this info. I didn't torque the head hot and won't. As far as the feeler gauges go...the go/no go gauges I have do not have an exact .25mm gauge. So which gauge can be used for .25mm? Do I use the .229 .279 gauge for .25mm? They do not have one exact metric measurement.

The cold valve setting is .25 mm. Does this mean I use the feeler gauge marked both .229 .279 (is this a range?) to slide under? And if the next largest gauge (.254 .305) does not slide under, then it's correctly adjusted? Are these ranges of numbers on each gauge? The actual reading of the gauge is my question.

Thanks that helps! Is my use of the feeler gauge correct as stated in the previous questions?

Also, should the head bolts be re-torqued after 500-600 miles or initially while hot? Also, if the head bolts are re-torqued, do the valves need to be re-adjusted (cold and hot)?

I'll check the crush pattern. I may have had less torque on the drivers side bolts as I tightened with a small phillips head since the air cleaner is in the way. Also the gasket was completely oiled up when I removed the cover to attempt the hot valve setting. I will clean it up and try again. I will tighten it down with the air cleaner off. As far as the hot valve setting....Is is alright to remove the spark plugs while its hot? I did the cold setting but the fan belt slips while turning the fan clockwise especially. Is it ok to turn counterclockwise? Also, if I turn the engine with a socket, which pulley can I turn it from? I know these are basic questions but I'm definitely still learning and am doing quite well. Slowly but surely. Also, the cold valve setting is .25 mm. Does this mean I use the feeler gauge marked both .229 .279 (is this a range?) to slide under? And if the next largest gauge (.254 .305) does not slide under, then it's correctly adjusted?

Thanks! I did the cold setting, then changed the oil, added coolant, attached the battery and it started up nice. Still had white smoke coming out the tailpipe. Can this be some residual water in the engine from before replacing the gasket? While taking off the valve cover for the hot valve setting, I noticed an oil leak from the valve cover. I had just replaced the valve cover gasket (cork type) and thought I screwed down the valve cover pretty snug. Any thoughts on why the valve cover can be leaking?

Thanks!

Got it done. Cold settings. I'm replacing the rocker cover gasket. Should the rocker cover gasket be put on With or without gasket seal?

Ok yes..I see a small precise V cut in the pulley closest to the 20, 10, and 0 scale.

I spin the fan clockwise and see the intake #1 rise...I look at the crank pulley near the number and see nothing distinct...a few lines indented into the pulley attached to the crank pulley but they look as though it's from old age. The mark is not distinct though.

Is the CRANK pulley the same pulley attached to the fan?

Is the CRANK pulley the same pulley attached to the fan?

Intake 1 is the 2nd of 8 valves, correct?

I see the number marks such as 10 and 20 on the pulley to the left. On the pulley attached to the fan I see nothing. If both valves are closed on the compression stroke of cylinder 1, will that make the push rods be higher/taller? I've read the process of adjusting the valves on this site and in the books I have. Im really stuck though with this process.

I am attempting to adjust the valves following a head gasket replacement. The rocker arm is attached and now I'm trying to find the TDC mark by turning the fan. I am uncertain as to the location of this mark. Any help is appreciated.

Regarding exhaust manifold gasket application, I found this information from Felpro website... Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: Exhaust manifold gaskets are another gasket type we get questions on. When installing Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets, if there is a smooth, metallic side and a composite side, the metallic side should be installed facing out, meaning toward the exhaust manifold. This smooth surface of the shiny side will allow the flange of the exhaust manifold to slide as it expands and contracts during heat cycling from engine operation.

11-14 ft lbs...found on page EE-52 of service manual

Thanks for the help on all of this. Regarding the cleaning part. Is it smart to clean off the top of the cylinders and pistons? And is there a gasket between the manifold and exhaust pipe? Also, when putting on the exhaust/intake manifold gasket, which is the head side and which is the manifold side?