jboulukos

So I get the green fusible link, then the proper size insulated connectors which would be 4 total (2 for each connection, 2 spades, 2 female), then get the pliers and connect the wire to the insulated connector. Is this correct? Do the insulated connectors need to be heat shrunk at the base to seal in the wire?

This is excellent.

Would this work? If so, how would I connect it?

Ok thank you. I have a few questions. Can you explain the "insulated connectors." I have looked for a new fusible link wire and have found wires with a metal ring at the end of it. Also, explain "spade." All this is new to me. Seems like the ideal situation would be to find someone parting out the same model car and get the exact fusible link with the plastic connectors.

Great. I had the negative terminal pretty loose in order to slide it off to work on the car. That might have started all this. I tested voltage of the battery and it was 12.7 which I think is at normal. What's the best way to clean the battery terminals? Wire brush the contact surfaces?

Ok, I'm going to use the multimeter to check the fuse box for short circuits. Do I need the battery to be hooked up when checking the fuse box? Since the wipers were very slow, could the wiring at the wipers be the culprit? I'm a complete novice with this stuff. It's scary to have the car sidelined with an electrical issue.

I found some green fusible link wires for sale on eBay. If I obtain one, I can solder the wires together not using the original white plastic connectors? One end to the white wire and the other to the other connector? cut the white plastic off, twist the wires together and solder?

Ok, I did my search for messed up wiring. First, went to the fusible links. One is green and one is yellow. I smelled the green one and it smells like a blown firecracker, burnt smell. So, that was my front smoke. The yellow fusible link that connect with the positive battery terminal end did not smell burnt and seemed intact. Ok, so not I understand that I need to find why the fusible link blew. The other area where I saw smoke prior to the fusible link blowing was under the steering column. I took off the steering column cover and looked at the wires with a flashlight. The wires seemed intact. Is there a way to test them with a multimeter? Also, can I get that green fusible link at an auto parts store? Here are the pictures. Fusible links: yellow and green I had this box disassembled so I decided to restore it with some flat black Ignition wiring/steering column wiring Hazard wire examined, looked fine

Please specifically describe what to do for this.

I meant the tiny hoses that lay between the carb and the valve cover. I need to button them up. I will definitely check the links off the positive battery terminal and the wires under the steering column clam case.

Also, I have recently had difficulty with the vacuum lines between the carb and the valve cover. I may have twisted them a bit and noticed one doesn't quite want to stay put. I need to go back in there and try to get it back so they aren't pulling or twisting themselves off.

This is what I have done recently in the past week: -added a new carb insulator -adjusted the carb with the tachometer hooked up, parking brake on and car in drive Where can I get a fusible link? I have another ignition switch assembly with key but I don't want to fry that one if theres something wrong somewhere else.

Car did not turn over or start at all. No noise from starter.

I had been running the car in D with the parking break on tuning the carburetor for a few minutes. Finished tuning, drove it up and down the driveway a couple times. Then I turned off the car for a few seconds and attempted to start it again but it wouldn't start. I noticed a faint light white smoke coming out of the hazard light switch opening on top of the steering column that lasted 5 seconds. The wipers did not work. The sound of the seat belt warning light buzz was distorted and the same buzzing each second was amplified by the radio speaker when I turned the radio on. The CHG and OIL-P lights were both on. I decided to check a few things. The battery had 13.4 V. I then changed all of my fuses. I thought I may have been low on gas because I had it running a while tuning. Checked the carburetor float window and gas level was normal. Also, the brake pedal was significantly more firm to depress. I decided to turn the car on to check the fuel gauge. It went up to the E and the wipers started working however were noticeably slow. After having the car on for a few seconds I noticed white smoke coming out the hood from the battery area. Went I lifted the hood to check I could not get a good read on exactly where it came from. I tried to turn the car on again to see if it would cause the smoke again however there was none. Took off the battery, which is one year old. Then opened the black box behind the battery took out the choke relay? and examined it. The thing looked fine. What else can I check? Coil? Ignition switch? Rheostat?

What's Canby? I imagine it's a PNW car show, parts trading and selling etc...

Original "Insulator" obtained

Yeah, on the websites, AutoZone and Advance do not have the "carb flange" gasket but O'Reilly's does. $2.99 ouch

Sounds good. I have an AutoZone and an Advance Auto Parts nearby. I will let you know if the have them. So I tried to do some of the carb adjustments in the service manual. I had a rough time for various reasons. Here's a list of things I attempted. 1. adjusting fast idle screw (at bottom): using a feeler gauge to check clearance "A" was fine except the clearance(small gap in choke valve) did not change for me at I tightened or loosened the fast idle screw. I threw in the towel. 2. vacuum break: clearance "B" should be between 1.8 to 1.98 mm. I through in the towel due to not having a gauge to measure it. My feeler gauge goes up to .635 mm. 3. choke unloader adjustment: unable to bend the unloader tongue. Can anybody? See picture

Ok carburetor is off. The order of my current gasket/spacer set up from top to bottom is as follows. Also see pictures. carb black thin paper gasket red phenolic spacer cardboard colored paper gasket heat shield thin black plastic gasket manifold No throttle shaft play in currently used carb, minimal throttle shaft play in one of the extra carbs.

Exactly. That's why I'm searching for the exact configuration of gaskets and spacer in order to limit the potential of issues in this area. I checked datsun1200.com but did not find enough information regarding the order of gaskets and which ones to use. I'll recheck the throttle shaft once I pull the carb out.

RockAuto "Carb Spacer" Where would this go? Between heat shield and carb base gasket?

Is the gasket in the O'Reilly's link, with the one opening, for the manifold to heat shield? Also, is the phenolic spacer the clear red plastic looking one in my previous pic of the carb base gasket setup I currently have? I will pull it apart and check under the heat shield. I'm curious to know what the original set up is because it doesn't seem to show it in the blow up carb images in the service manual. I've been practicing the cold fast idle adjustment on one of my extra carbs and it definitely effects position as it relates to dashpot, throttle and choke linkage or cams. The service manual lays out specified measurements for gaps between areas so I will adjust everything appropriately. One thing I have found with the carbs is that the metal arms on the throttle area and other movable arms can bend and/or twist slightly and thus effect the mechanisms and the smoothness of movement of the linkages.

Thanks for the info. Well my next step is to remove the carb and 1.) adjust fast idle cold as per service manual and recheck with warmed up engine, 2.) adjust choke unloader by bending the unloader tongue as needed as per service manual, 3.) It looks as though the dashpot position can effect the position of the throttle lever so I will look into that as well. If you find any specific info on the gaskets necessary at the base of the carb to heat shield to manifold, let me know. I'd like to get it what it needs. I'm thinking once the carb adjustments are dialed in, the throttle cable will fit normally.

Can a slackened throttle cable be the culprit of hesitation upon acceleration? I see the clamp were it can be slackened or tightened. I have read there should be 1mm of play in the cable. Mine has about 5-6mm of play. The clamp can only grab the metal cylinder area on the cable to be tight. I have moved the cable to the edge of the clamp and the metal cylinder around the cable is only being held by the edge of one side of the clamp. In this position which is the end of the spectrum for tightening, slack remains. There is even more slack if the cable is positioned completely on both sides of the clamp. Here is a picture. I hope I described it well.

I attempted another choke adjustment. I understand how it's done however it seems the linkage won't allow the choke to close when the gas pedal is depressed. Here's a picture of the choke mechanism stuck in a partially open position. I have to manually lift the accelerator linkage to get the choke to close.