jboulukos

The intake manifold i suspect. Here's a pic.

Texted him. He texted back "gone."

It's gone now.

What is the proper/correct gasket set up for between manifold and carburetor? Here is my current set up.

How do you adjust the tension in the throttle cable? Mine is loose as well.

Great, I'll take it.

I'll examine the carb on my car, however out of my extra 3, 2 have dashpots. I'm pretty sure the throttle cable is unhooked at this exit point as you were describing. Need to know all the details to do it right and limit the potential of failure. Much thanks, each small piece of info is a big deal to me.

Fantastic info. Much appreciated!

I read over some of the past threads of the trials and tribulations of the Hitachi carb. Here's a few more questions. 1. How can you know if the carb is original Hitachi and not a remanufactured or knock off carb? 2. What's a good carb body cleaning solution for soaking the parts in? 3. How long to soak the parts? I understand the middle portion with the circular float window shouldn't be soaked "too long" due to rubber being a component of the window and is a recommended warning on the carb rebuild kit I have. 4. To clean the jets, should they be accessed from the inside, unscrew the top ceiling screws and removed/cleaned? Do those top screws to access the jets have a certain position/depth or are they screwed in to the lowest position? 5. Should gasket sealer be used on carb to carb gaskets and/or carb to manifold gasket? 6. I currently do not have a clamp on the lower end of the Manifold heat riser white tube that leads to the neck of the air cleaner assembly. Would this cause vacuum loss? 7. When removing the carb from the car, how can the metal cable coming from the firewall be detached to free the carb? Thanks!

No clutch, It's an automatic trans. Any input here is much appreciated.

no pedal touched, popped the hood to check it and the metal flap was open. Thank you. I'm trying my best and enjoy the hobby of it. I got hooked after changing out a blown head gasket. I review the service manual but mostly rely heavily on Ratsun to build my understanding of how stuff works.

I think I will just shove a screw in it then.

10. Should choke be open on a stone cold engine?

8. Where do I obtain a filter piece like this? 9. Should this line in my hand be capped? The service manual says it goes from the distributor to the 3 part thermal vacuum valve. How many lines go to the distributor? The line over the top of the valve cover attaches to the distributor currently.

I read over some of the past threads of the trials and tribulations of the Hitachi carb. Here's a few more questions. 1. How can you know if the carb is original Hitachi and not a remanufactured or knock off carb? 2. What's a good carb body cleaning solution for soaking the parts in? 3. How long to soak the parts? I understand the middle portion with the circular float window shouldn't be soaked "too long" due to rubber being a component of the window and is a recommended warning on the carb rebuild kit I have. 4. To clean the jets, should they be accessed from the inside, unscrew the top ceiling screws and removed/cleaned? Do those top screws to access the jets have a certain position/depth or are they screwed in to the lowest position? 5. Should gasket sealer be used on carb to carb gaskets and/or carb to manifold gasket? 6. I currently do not have a clamp on the lower end of the Manifold heat riser white tube that leads to the neck of the air cleaner assembly. Would this cause vacuum loss? 7. When removing the carb from the car, how can the metal cable coming from the firewall be detached to free the carb? Thanks!

Test drive after today's carb adjustment helped decrease if not eliminate the initial acceleration hesitation. It currently feels less smooth overall after my adjustments. Going to continue to look into this.

The vintage compression gauge I have has an attachable pressure release screw that I had not attached yesterday. Used an autozone compression gauge and successfully completed the dry and wet compression. Results: Compression in psi (dry/wet) Cylinder 1 (124/152) 2 (127/154) 3 (126/152) 4 (124/148) Looks like all is well with compression as to my knowledge...expected increase in wet test, no significant decline in numbers dry or wet. Are the actual numbers for compression good? Adjusted the carb again after this test. I have yet to adjust choke and to my understanding should be completed on a stone cold engine. As far as choke adjustment goes, does anyone have any thoughts on how it should be adjusted?

What's the difference in the manual version and the automatic version of this carb. I'm pretty sure the extra ones I have are manual since I got them from a guy with a manual B210. I took apart one yesterday and learned a ton. Also, is there any preferred carb store/website that people have had good outcomes with buying carbs?

Yeah, I thought the gauge or hose may have been faulty. Its 40 years old and today was the first time it was used. I'll rent one from AutoZone.

Checked timing, it's right on the money. New distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs.

Adjusted the carb as per the service manual. Very difficult to adjust, not fun. Did my best to follow the directions. After finding 650 rpm with the idle speed screw, little to no difference was made by turning the idle mixture screw. Turning it slowly, quickly, or large amounts of turning hardly creates a change in rpms. The hesitation upon acceleration decreased slightly although the car runs a bit more rough or feels as though there's less power and the exhaust smells a bit more gassy. I think the car runs smoother at 700 rpm. I'll revisit this of course.

Tried a compression test. -Took cool wire out of coil. -took out all spark plugs -Attached compression gauge spark plug hole 1 I then cranked the engine and the gauge moved up to approx. 60 but only when turning the key. Also sparks flying from coil. I then tried cylinders 2 and 3 but same effect. The pressure was there only when cranking. Am I missing something? Is it possible to have zero compression?

Can you elaborate on the 99, 108 jets? Not certain I follow.

Today I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, and spark plug wires. Thing runs better definitely. Previous rotor was tan colored and made in US. The new Bosch cap and rotor were made in Japan, FYI. The hesitation upon acceleration still remains but the hesitation at steady speed seems improved. I'm definitely taking my time, studying the manuals, learning how to use the tune-up test equipment, etc. Next I'll complete the basic carb adjustments and see how this effects the initial acceleration. Any advice on the carb tuning procedures will be much appreciated. I took a picture of the carb tag, to compare to the previously posted pictures however it is blank (picture attached). If I need to rebuild it, I'll probably do it over the winter taking my time. That or I'll get another at national carburetor if people have had good results with them.

Let me know how that rebuilt carb runs!