68Datsun510

Hahahah, well, It DID! But, i cant drive it when the bellhousings full of oil!! Bad rear seal :P

Bungie cord battery holder??? OOOOOOh the filter ;P

Im a dummy again, sound it in my PDF's d'oh!!!!

So, i cant find any real good info on rebuilding this, whats the procedure for timing the cam to the crank??? (installing timing chain)

Painting my 68 without any prep, whole paint job blew off when i got it home and pressure washed it. Wiring trouble in the 69 turn signals, so, they made their own wiring! Two bullet holes in the 69 510's firewall... PO tried to install full electric locks and windows in the 68...garbage canned it... the 521 has a w/p pulley and fan/shroud of something completely wrong, drilled to fit... 1/2" of runout! 521 also has an unfused electric fuel pump powered directly off the coil... orange RTV...EVERYWHERE... Not terrible, but also not smart.

Bumping for excellence. I too need to know the proper way to time the cam since im rebuilding my engine...

$4.30 a gallon and rising still, gonna be a spendy mofo, but, IM GOING DAMMIT!!!!! =D

Scooby, thanks! my girlfriend thinks its less than stellar, but we know whats cool! Hahahahhaha!!! Ill probably swap in 4.375 gears and leave it at that =) matt, havent gotten to it yet, but definitely going to! Twizted: Will do! Build thread is in the PROJECT DATTO SEECTION! =)

Deal Pending at the moment.

Would the L motor mounts from an '80 720 frame work on a 69 521 to install an L engine??? May have a line on some =)

My friend (ironically) Matt is planning this same thing for his '64 320. I reallllly wanna do the disc/ball joint swap asap.

This 11mm ive been finding everywhere! A 7/16 socket works just fine tho. Any opinions on what i should do? Toss in some new bearings? Hope it lasts long enough to get the mounts for an L? It ran perfectly before i tore it down...

PM me if you have it

Well im a dummy. Turns out J13's are SAE. Who woulda thought?

Not happy...every damn 8mm hole has been tapped to 1/2" head bolts. What fucking mechanic does this!? Even the 6mm bolts are now 7/16. Looke l ike he used an entire tube of orange RTV as well. Now onto the real issue, the water pump pulley and fan ARENT FOR THIS ENGINE! Whoever did it just drilled a matching pattern of holes into something else. The have massive runout. ANYONE HAVE A J13 WATER PUMP PULLEY AND FAN??? I then move on to the oil pan, which has no gesket, and about a pound of RTV, pull it, get in the rear main, and as suspected, the seal is toast, but i didnt expect to see the bearings worn down to copper! NEED OPINIONS! Can I just toss in new bearings and hope for the best? SHould i bother? Or should i abandon ship now, get L mounts, and go from there? I really wanted to run the J, but this thing needs a LOT of work i think... =( OICS to follow.

More redneck engineering, all the bolts that hold the trans plate to the block are retapped to 3/8-24!!!

I ran a Z22E in my 510 for years and it ran great, and was super reliable. Not the fastest, but a very reliable swap.

Tank seems ok, fuel filter is see thru, and is decent. Probably will do it anyway =)

Gino! I couldnt think of a better buyer ;) Ill call ya tomorrow.

Am i the only one who became really confused with all the will-fit/wont-fit stuff flyin around? I just want the simplest way to ball joints and discs on my 69 521 ;) WHat master was used?

Compression tested too today, 135, 100, 90, 120...good enough... lol Assco clutch disk, hahaha...

Yanked out the engine today, blasted off all the crab and split the trans off the block. WHat an enormous mess. THe bellhousing is slicked in oil, and shiny. The clutch is BRAND NEW looking, as is the disc, but its oil soaked, so its garbage >:-(. Stupid shits replacing a clutch and not the main!!! Also finding a LOT of weird bolts on this, 11mm, even a lot of SAE bolts. Redneck mechanics at their worst. When i pulled the trans plate off the back of the block, a lot of oil was trapped in the webbing. Made a big mess. Gotta live the wire wheel'd flywheel too. Another joker fix was installing an electric fuel pump run UNFUSED off the coil power wire. Why not get a new mechanical pump!???!!!? With the DGV, im almost certain the pump pushes too much fuel pressure, hence the carb being a complete mess... Anyway, need a new disk, and a crash course in rear main seal replacement.. ANy other internal parts i should swap while im in there? Rod bearings???

DO GET

Datzenmike, will that diaphragm work on a J13 fuel pump as well?