68Datsun510

Scratch that, figured out a way to repair them.

Victor Reinz full gasket set for J13 FS3597

Good god im always so surprised how folks on here resurrect things that look like a definite parts truck! Need that 1600 valve cover??? :cool:

An SR/KA geared properly on EFI would probably match within a reasonable amount, but an A12 driven nicely with a perfectly tuned card would probably kick everythings ass...

need the front turn signals to a 521 pickup, mine are super rusty in the bulb 'bucket'. Bulbs cant ground.

Update on the lighting situation. Switch is perfect now, perfectly clean, pulled bulbs out of turn signals, as they are horridly crusty and can no longer ground themselves without 'circuit hunting' and grounding thru a incorrect path. I used a test light on the positive 'lugs' inside the bulb socket. Half-pull=all 4 'parking' lights on. Blinker functions normally. Full pull= front parking lights turn off, rear remain on, blinker functions normally. I have heard that many 60's vehicles were designed to disengage the front park lights to conserve power with the limited batteries and alternators of the day. All circuitry is stock, unmessed with, theres no corrosion, as the fusebox has already undergone the 'vinegar bath'. Is it possible that early 521's disengage the front park lights with headlights on??? Especially with a J13?

Hello folks, i have 2 electrical issues and i thought i'd post to see if anyone else experienced this. 69 521 #1: horn on all the time. Circuit is fine from steering column to relay, install the steering wheel, all is good. Until you install the button. I cant see how the hell its making contact! Futher diagnosis is still being done, but was wondering if its happened to anyone else. Stock wheel. #2 headlight switch?? Pull switch to half way, all 4 parking lights on, pull switch all the way out, parking lights shut off...headlights come on. wtf

Stock vs stock the Naps-Z engine is actually more powerful than any stock L series engine. I love L motors, and I love Z engines just for their simplicity, for a stock build with say, a weber DGV, its hard to beat. Mine had EFI and i held my own against many cars. Make sure you have a matching tranny for it, and youll have to get creative with mounts, as the engine tilts the OPPOSITE direction of an L motor.

Isnt it just venturi noise!?

Hahaha, i feel like such a noob again, like its 2004 and im on the bbl as the 'new kid'. Never dealt with trucks, much less 'borrowed' engine designs that appear to predate flatheads :P (J series)

As in a non J one? tel me about it...

How much different is an A from a J??? My Z22E setup that Jon test drove back in the day got 31mpg on I-5 going semi speed following trucks

Get with the ASAP part! I wanna see!

Anyone buy the turn signals and tail lights for a 521 from the ebay seller iyaikub?? Tail lights are from a diff seller, but they are all from Thailand. Opinions??? Mine stock ones dont ground, anymore, too rusty!

John, hes rockin the J15! With a hitachi? Nice! Fuel cost is why im not DIRECTLY swapping to an L motor. Canbys gonna cost a )*(%&*%&$ fortune!!

I have a line on an L truck thats mostly stripped, theres a Cab, with a BADly rusted roof, rusted floors, and missing maaaany parts. Wirings no issue as im very familiar with datto color coding and such. Frames in good shape though. I just like to have a backup plan for whenever the J13 blows up or i get sick and tired of 50hp or less. Swap frames, a little wiring, BAM, L truck. Im liking this idea... Of course then you have to ask, what OTHER frames fit under a 521 body EASILY? 79 620? 80 720? Definitely wanna stay L though...

Anyone notice the bent crank pulley? Check the pics ^^

Jerry the fabricator suggests a frame swap??? LOL I suppose it could be done, i have a line on an L truck...

Got it. Thanks to all who PM'd!!

Hybrid L motor, 18 block/crank, 16 rods, Z22 pistons, closee chamber head, comes out to 1860cc's

Good to hear, yeah, i can see the holes already. The more i dig into this J engine the more i am concerned that the money spent on IT could pay for another swap to stick a brand new L19 in it with a ZX transmission...

Yes, i stuck this in the engine forum, as engine/swap knowledgeable people tend to be here, i would think anyway... If im mistaken, sorry, move the thread. =)

Forgive me if i missed a post somewhere, but ive been searching for a guide or at least some info regarding the steps required and the difficulty of swapping out a J13 for an L series. Ive read thru a lot of peoples builds, but none that i found had a 521/J13, it was all earlier models. So, to swap in an L series, obviously, you need to remove the J mounts, and you will need to modify the trans mount and driveshaft. And you need to remove the 'extra shroud' to fit an L rad further forward. Thats all basic stuff, as ive done it all in my 510. My concern is the engine bay. Is it just a matter of swapping engine mounts? Are there any other clearance issues? THe e-brake system for instance? PIcs would be greatly appreciated from anyone else who has done the swap. Info and guidance as well. Im trying to weigh the cost vs benefit of an L/5 speed swap vs rebuilding the tiny J13. Thanks in advance!!

Here are the pics of the ghetto fan and bearings etc.