Braden

do you have the webers? i may need a carb soon, pics?

im jealous man, i have a fresh motor and a set of 44mm mikunis i want to install but i cant afford to rebuild my carbs or get a sloppy cam, im having serious issues with my stock hitachi as we speak, good luck with your carb tuning, i know i havent had any:(

i would really appreciate some fast responses guys i really need your help, sorry if that is too much to ask but i need some transportation, please please point me in a direction, thanks

the idle srews dont do jack, the one screw is not even touching the linkage which means it isnt opening up the butterfly at all, its not even touching the linkage, the needle screw i set to specs in the rebuild kit, i turned it in then backed it off 2 to 2.5 turns and every increment inbetween. i guess i am confused, if both the butterflys are closed then why is the truck revving so high? its shouldnt run at all right? if all of my linkage is correct and everything else is correct, what else could it be just some combo if idle screws beinmg out of adjustment? has anyone ever heard of this problem before? i have 44mm mikunis damn i wish i had the money to rebuild them.

removed it and it ran even worse

ok so when you start the truck cold with the choke on it revs to 4500 rpm, then when its warmed up and the choke is off it drops to 2500rpm??? i just cant figure it out, its got to be right in front of my face, the float level is good, all the gaskets are sealing, the linkage isnt stuck, the choke works, the idle adjustment screws have zero effect, im stumped, i completely disassembled the carb last night and layed out all the parts in order, i put them all back in order as well, i replaced the little metal balls, all the seals, removed and cleaned all the jets, and i blew out all of the passages with 100 psi of air, everything is tightened, and in place, what do you guys could think is wrong with it? what is your opinion?

I QUIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! fuck it, japanese piece of shit, if fucked with everything that could possibly be fucked with, and not shit, starts up and revs to 4500 and stays there, the damn primary isnt even OPEN NOR IS THE SECONDARY!!!!!!!!!!!!! someone please give me 350 bucks so i can rebuild my mikunis!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hey buzzbomb stay online and i will take a pic real quick of the linkage setup

ok now i ahve the carb off again, studying checking,, studying some more, cant figure it out, it all seems good, one thing i dodnt mention is my throttle cable is loose now that i put the carb back on the truck, when i took it off it was tight, i tried to see if i assembled the linkage wrong, but i cant get it to move back anymore so that it will tighten up the cable ? im so frustrated guys please give me some info or stuff to try

ok adjusted the float down and now my flota level is good but the truck wont idle at all and when you give it gas it pukes and backfires and will rev up high and then quit, adjusted both idle screws in and out and in and out and adjusted the screw datzenmike was talking about, tried everything i could think of

ok this is confirmed, the float is overflowing, it fills up then over flows, when i turned the engine off it was completely full, i let it sit, came back and its on the dot

i am beginning to think that the float is overflowing, when i turn the motor off, the float bolw looks full, sometimes its on the dot then sometimes its full, if the bowl is overflowing could that cause the erratic idle at 2500?

ok got all the leaks stopped, i made a rookie mistake and istalled the wrong gasket instead of matching up my old gasket, ok now i took the carb off and double checked everything, still idles at 2500 with the choke off, adjusted the needle and the idle screw, still idles high, when you turn the engine off should the float chamber drain? it does

ok the kit came with 2 gaskets that go inbetween the top third of the carb and the second third of the carb, i installed both gaskets, i know it leaks aroud there because i can pour gas down the carb and it runs out all around there, i am going to take it back apart and only put one of the gaskets in there, i think the kit came with 2 gaskets to fix different models of the carb. update now the enging is hot and the choke opened and now its idling at about 2000 instead of 4500, thought or comments would be good

ok i think that the float is filling up and dumping all of its fuel for some reason? maybe a gasket leaking could cause this?

ok i just fired it up and then shut it off looked down the secondary and there was raw fuel sitting on top of it, the float is full perfect with the dot, while it was running i jumped out and move the throttle trying to disengage it and it just revved higher

its the same one, i spent about 5 hours cleaning it and rebuilding it, basically i had an old hitachi that was dirty and the choke didnt wrok right and it had a bad accelerator pump, so i rebuilt it so i can drive it instead of my silverado, i love 30 mpg not 15, all of the linkage and springs and what have you are in the correct position, i followed the directions on the carb worksheet, put every jet back in the same hole and put every scvrew back in the same hole basically i just disassembled cleaned really good and reassembled replacing everything i could.

the float is filling up although i have not verified it is to the dot, it doesnt matter what i move, the choke, the throttle, it stays around 4500 rpm, might go up or down a feww hundred rpm, but i start the truck then waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaputputwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa move some shit then waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa all at 4500, im about to go get another kit and rebuild the fucker again, the gaskets they sent are shit, dont buy a walker kit, lets say it is the anit dieseling solenoid, what would that do

what the hell guys please help me out, ok the damn float gasket leaks all to hell so does the gasket between the top part of the carb and the second part, i put rtv on the float window gasket, hopefully that stopped that leak, im clueless guys, im getting very frustrated, the old dirty carb worked a hell of a lot better, the damn thing now revs to 4500!!!!!! what the fuck? help me out carb gurus!!!!!

here is the deal, with the engine off and cold the linkage is sitting on the "steps" and the choke is closed, ok now i move the throttle back and forht, it moves easily and the when i return it to the down position it still rests on the steps, i guess that is normal since the engine is cold, that seems to be working fine, now i can open the throttle up and hold the choke open by hand and return the throttle to down, its is now off the "steps" continue to hold the choke open and move the throttle and it will stay off the steps since i have the choke held open acting as the engine is warm right? im positive i have no vacumm leaks as i cleaned and scraped all gasket mating surfaces and used all new gaskets, i need to re adjust my float as its not fillingup the float chaMBER could the float thing be the problem? i dont see how

actually the choke should always be on untill the motor heats up when the engine heats up the thermostat opens the choke up,

yeah you would think so, shit i dont know i need help guys, really bad i need to get my truck on the road, i cant afford to drive my full size ttruck back and forth to college this week, i have 23 dollars to my name!

no smog checks here, its still on there for no reason at all, other than i have anothermotor that has it off that i am going to swap sooner or later

is that what is causing the super high idle?