demo243

Got all 6 mocked up! And started tearing them down to get prepped for the shared throttle shaft. Shaft should be here Wednesday. Plan is to run it through them all and mark the slide mount for each - mostly just for spacing- then I’ll try and use a straight edge to mark a line down the shaft to get them all aligned- or vise versa…

Its figuring out the angle offset of the throttle stop/return spring and accelerator pump pins that worries me… but we’ll see

Also shortened up the idle adjustment- looks like it should work like this, but I will need to drill and tap the brass hat so I can use it as a thumb wheel. Might add a slot to the end for a flat head… but don’t think I can get one up there anyway so probably not.

This is with no pressure on the slide- so it would likely be threaded in further- although… realistically I only need one adjuster since they are all attached on the same throttle shaft… there is a slight bit of play in the stock throttle shaft/slide linkage so I’ll plan on running them all for minor adjustments at idle.

Also ordered up some 5mm Dcoe spacers - I’ll port match the the manifold to those and then I can port the spacers to match the mikuni adapters since the mikuni adapters are slightly oval. This way if I decide to bail on the HSRs the manifold isn’t jacked…

@Stoffregen Motorsports based on a quick Google search it sounds like as long as you didn’t get the turbo XT you might be able to get 15s on there and 16s should be good.  Could try looking for some older Subaru take off wheels to keep the costs down

—- Edit—-

you might need aftermarket 15s… but sounds like 16s are ok

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2015-will-15-wheels-fit-clear-the-brakes.837555/

Went 1 for 3 on Z projects today... 

We had a nice day so I decided to try and get a few things done.

First was throwing on the new 1320 "Twin" exit muffler. Should have measured first... but decided to just try, unfortunately both exhaust and muffler pipes are 2.5" so Ill have to bring it to the exhaust shop to get it welded on. 

Next was putting a new valve cover on - snagged this one off Facebook powder coated red. Dig the color although the blue block is a bit much... but oh well.



Finally I decided to try and tear down my spare struts to prep them for coil overs. Got a few of them torn down but having some issues with rust on them. Also realized the driver side spare I picked up is probably no good... who ever took it out cut it out and did a hack job... It was dark in when I picked it up so I missed it... bummer... but really don't think its worth running.

Leaning toward maybe just grabbing T3s Evolved lowers now that thread in the BC coils I picked up on Black Friday sale... unfortunately T3s sale is over now... so Ill hold out and see if they do another winter or Memorial Day sale.

Played around with the Mikunis a little bit too- grabbed my spare KA manifold for the DCOE spacing. Still waiting on the TWM manifold for any real set up for fabrication. 

The idle adjustment knobs are definitely gonna be trouble. 

Tried hacking off the wire and leaving the "crimp" since it acted as a nice wrench flat... but no luck.

I think what I will have to do - and have seen done - is drill and tap the screw and drill the brass hat and use a set screw to hold it in place. Then I'll add some knurling to the brass hat to help with adjustment. Gonna be tight... but hopefully something I don't need to mess with much... 

Fuel inlets are gonna be tight but I think they'll be ok.
 

Just gonna drop this here….

Im committed now!

24 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Well, I mean, the best thing would be to send your SUs to Z Therapy...  😋

 

If you want to be the coolest kid at the Z meet, I do have a single downdraft manifold for it? 😉

I would definitely give two HSRs a shot before that- I'd really just rather have a new carb and a fan of Mikunis.

I think a 4 barrel would make me the coolest kid at the Z meet?!? Hahahaha 

I found a Facebook post by MikuniOZ the "Official Australian aftermarket Mikuni distributor" that had one of the engines I've seen running HSRs so I have sent them a note to see if I can get any more info.

Just some light reading...

I was actually hoping for more info from these, but they don't mean much until I have carbs in hand... And the Sudco book was probably not worth the money. Every Harley site said to get it, as it was better then the Mikuni manual - but they are practically the same and the Mikuni one has more info and is free. 

I guess I should add some more info here- 

I was sold on OER carbs - but then couldn't decide if OER or Weber jets were the better way to go... In digging for a few weeks I have read they are the best carb ever... and they are cheap cast junk... and there is hardly any info out there on them other then an old SK manual. I also emailed them to both their OER Japan email and their OER outside of Japan distributor but no response from either... which doesn't help their case.  I also messaged a guy in Japan who is running 6 HSR 45s on a very built engine and he said (translation was an issue...) that he could not figure out the right jetting on OERs and that the HSRs were better,

So I am back on the Mikuni HSR train... The best thing to do would be to buy 2 HSR45s and slap em on the SU manifold. But where is the fun in that?!? The siren song of ITBs sings to me. 

So I am doing my research.... 6 HSRs may be in the future. Still some research to be done. But the big selling point is current and US availability of parts. OER has an unknown future... and even with the weber jets there are a few OER specific parts that could potentially be required. The lack of response- even if unintentional is frustrating. 

HSRs are definitely a gamble... and a big one at that... but if they are good they could replace the Mikuni PHHs on my 510. I should probably start on that car since I only need 4 and not 6, and I have a manifold, but I don't want to mess with that car while its in running order.

TBD

Thanks- that’s her “good” side… driver door is a bit beat up, and over all has a poor failing oxidized silver paint- but that kinda gives it a rough and tumble look. Most the stainless trim is actually pretty still there- just shadowed I guess, but does have a black rubber windshield gasket. Kinda going for a grey/black look right now.

Better late then never for saving it! Hopefully it doesn’t give you too much trouble.

I look forward to seeing your progress!

3 hours ago, 1984 said:

Oh so just the coils are shorter. Wouldn't the gas shock portion have to be shorter as well so they don't bottom out?

There's some pictures. Those tires are 215/70 so 25.9".

 

Nice find! That's a cool looking car.

The short answer is yes- ideally the struts should be shortened and use shorter inserts in order to keep the shock travel. But... there were a number of aftermarket lowering spring kits available- and still available. The majority of which were more then likely just slapped on. It does look like those tires have a good bit of sidewall which will make the car look lower too. 

Here is a shot of my car sitting on a 15x8 wheel with a 225/45 tire-- note the huge gap! but with a bigger tire it would look lower. 



Still those springs look to have fewer coils then the ones on my car which lead me to believe it would sit lower in its travel and therefore lower the car. 

Could run it as it is if you don't have any issues with it bottoming out.

Datsun season has come to an end for me….

Swapped the ZX “winter” wheels back on for storage and put the nice sticky tires in the basement to keep ‘em warm.

I’ve though a few times as to whether I should have gone with silver wheels, but throwing these back on confirms that car looks much more badass on dark ones.

I didn’t realize it when I took em off, but looks like one of the POs put the ZX wheels on with acorn nuts…. Sketchy!!!

They are back one for now… but it’s time to find a new set of shoulder season/winter storage wheels - ideally a Rota or Konig or something with a 3-500 tread wear tire on it I won’t mind leaving in the garage all winter but can still drive on to sneak a few more Z days in when I can.

2 hours ago, 1984 said:

Here's a screenshot of speeds at 5000rpm. Just now figuring out how to post pictures so bear with me.

 

http://

 

As far as the engine goes, what I do know is that it ran well until the water pump went out. The previous owner noticed this while the engine was warming up in the driveway. For whatever reason they didn't replace the water pump and just let the car sit for a couple decades.  

 

The engine turned over easily by hand.

 

Here's a picture of the rear suspension. Anyone know how it's been lowered? 

 

http://

Everything looks pretty stock there- probably just some lowering springs 

Got any photos of it on the ground? Might help show how low it is.

A lot of unknowns on that engine- if it has been built up it could be solid as it is- definitely a possibility giving that someone did some work swapping out the trans and rear end along with suspension work.

If you are after more power then- no replacement for displacement! Find and L28 and build it up- can’t help you with the details as I’m still figuring those out myself- but the L28 in my Z feels pretty good!

On 11/22/2023 at 2:24 PM, Crashtd420 said:

I'm pretty sure they even salted around here already, we had an icy morning last week....

I'm guessing they might salt tonight... everything is wet and it's going to get cold... 

That needs a dislike!

I hope they didn’t around me … was hoping to get a couple more drives in!

2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

You do realize that's only 3.2 away from 20000.... last spot is the 10ths..

I almost drove around town but I had to get home for things...

Ha whoops! 
 

Still 32 miles is more fun then 3.2, so I’ll hold my ground! 

20 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Almost there....

 

 

I’d be doing a 32 mile cruise ! Just to make sure I didn’t miss it!

50 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I thought that but it makes me wonder.... like I said I have a new one ready to go so It cant hurt.... 

I guess in theory though the engine should still be able to warm up since the thermostat should stay closed and keep it from circulating…

idk….

Going to be a nice afternoon for a Datsun Drive!

could just be a very efficient cooling system. When it’s cold my 510 never gets up to temp on the highway. I think the bad radiator is to blame- has a fresh thermostat in it

10 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

I deployed the cardboard winter shield.... 12x12 piece in front of my ac condenser... seemed to work perfectly this morning....

36 degrees out and the truck stayed at the middle line on the temp gauge.... creaped down a little driving on the highway but I was using the heat...

Its supposed to be high 50s maybe 60 going home.... 

 

Took the Z out for a cruise this morning too - never really got up to temp … oil temp got close to 200 though so I wasn’t really worried.

Swapped the “winter” storage wheels on the 510 the other day and tucked it away… holding out on the Z a couple more weeks to hopefully sneak a few more drives in!

Winter is here… so I pulled her out to swap on the “winter” storage wheels. Snagged this pic while they were both out.

Thats all… nothing else to update 😒

Not much to update-

Took it for a cruise this morning to the local coffee shop for fun. 
 

Always laugh at these size comparisons -

Swapped the “winter wheels” on the 510 to store the good tires in the warm basement- had to grab a shot of both of them-

Haven’t ordered any parts yet … but Black Friday sales are dropping so stuff will be ordered soon!

Trying to decide if I want to just replace the inner/outer tie rods… or just do the full Apex/T3 rack set up- leaning toward the rack set up and I’ll keep the stock one as a spare… Might as well the TC rods then too. Debating on strut tower braces too even though I think they are basically for show… I remember reading 510s don’t need em, but don’t know about the Z… also read that they can do more damage in a small hit by messing up both sides… tbd. --- Nevermind... gonna strike the TC rods and strut braces for now... $$$ adding up to be too much.

Waiting for a BC coilover sale hopefully- got a full set of spare donor struck housings now.

Gonna grab some odds and ends from Z car depot hopefully- ignition switch, H4 headlight bulbs and LED bulbs (liked the LEDs on the rear so much I’m gonna do em all around), headlight covers - keep going back and forth on these but I think they really complete the car and give it a sleaker racier look.

Finally gotta decide on carbs- the siren song of Moto carbs (Mikuni HSRs) keeps calling but the $$$ just aren’t there for that so OER it will be - 45s with 36mm chokes- just need to decide Weber or Oer jets- which Weber is probably the smarter choice…

Was gonna get some skillard door cards and center consol but then remembered about the steering shake so if I buy a rack the skillard stuff is out….

1 hour ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Damn, now you got me thinking. These are still about half the price of an SR, and probably 50+ pounds lighter than a KA24DE...  😋

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364073828936

They are definitely cool little buzzy engines. Aftermarket support especially in the US isn’t huge… but it’s there.

I still really want to swap one into a 510… but need to find another one and convince the wife to let me buy it 😂😂😂

15 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Do you have a wide band? It's the best way to know your air fuel at any rpm or load. I have R-1s on my L20B and popular wisdom says to increase the jet size which I did. The air ratio was 9.6 which was probably as low as it would read. At full throttle you could see black smoke out the window. I bought under size jets for motorcycle (20 or 30 jets for $15) and drilled them out to make larger. Took me three sets to get back almost to what the stock R-1s were. Should have left them alone probably. Heavy throttle in the top 12s, cruise mid throttle 14s and idle 14.7. 

I do have a wideband.

What’s the throat size on those R1s?
 

I’m still dreaming about Moto carbs. Was reading about the Mikuni rs40s and it sounds like they have issues with the slides sticking under vacuum. Which is a bummer. The fact that they come in a rack of 4 should in theory make it easier to make a rack of 6. I just figure if 2 HSR 45s and fuel an l28 then 6 HSR42s will be too much on the stock engine

30 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

The sound is definitely hard to beat. 😈

 

I'm going KA to cut down total weight, and to move some weight more to the middle. 

KA is a great engine. Tons of torque. Same size as the original engine in a 240 too. 
 

I wont lie- I’ve thought about pulling the carbs and turbo’ing mine. But every time I drive it I just can’t resist the siren song of sidedrafts!!

If I ended up with another 510 I was probably going to CA18Det it- turbo and mini RB 🤣

24 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

This is honestly where I am at now. Making a car that fast, sort of makes it less fun...

 

You could always do a KA24DE?  😁

Id bet the KA in my 510 has more power! Feels faster at least, but it also has a very different gear ratio.

KAs are hard to find now too… damn they are getting expensive.
 

Z needs a straight 6 though…

Ran up to Oreilly this morning hoping to grab some filters but they didn’t have anything I liked…

Grabbed a new LED flasher which seems to have fixed that problem so I guess the other one just went bad.

Car drove fine this morning- no issues. So my guess is something in the fuel system.

Going to replace the filters and plan on doing the pump and adding a regulator as well.

With that said - I think I’m going to go with a set of OER sidedrafts- the price is just to hard to beat vs any of the other options. So I will probably hold off and do all the fuel stuff at the same time.

Now to decide -OER jets or Weber jets; I don’t plan on fiddling with it much so the availability of Weber jets doesn’t make that much of a difference. Shipping from Japan is pretty reasonable too given most places in the US charge $15+ for shipping too.

I am planning on 45s with likely 36 chokes and a wire pull linkage. For 462cc per cylinder Weber recommends 36’s. I can always drop down to 34’s if need be. 45s will “future proof” them for any down the road mods- ie cam and slight bump in comp. Just need to figure out a base jetting estimate so I can order some spares for tuning. Hard part is everyone has an opinion and most people I don’t think actually know what they are talking about… I’ve heard if you order through RHDJapan you can email OER with the order number and they will jet them to spec- so I may try and reach out to them for a baseline so I can order carbs and extra jets at the same time

17 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

We both know firsthand that a well done engine swap can often cost double whatever the engine itself cost. 😋

 

Yeah, the cool L-series EFI bits are super expensive, but I don't think swapping to a completely different engine that was never sold in the US can really be cost-equivalent, right?

 

The RB is pretty damn cool, though...

Cost equivalent… yea not really. But power for your $$ and cool factor - definitely hard to ignore. If I was to spend that much on efi bits then now you might as well build a race engine to suit them… and now you are double the price so yea an RB starts looking really nice.

With all that said- I don’t need or want all that power. It just makes for a car that’s not so fun to drive since you are at nearly felony speeds in seconds.