demo243

OK…. Time to finally post em up… looks like my phone F-ed up and uploaded things to photo bucket multiple times…. so my hope of finding a faster way was frutile... Any way... I left you all off with a radiator that wasn't quite bolted up Had to grind down the lip in front of the radiator… it had a weird bow inward there making it wider in the middle then at the edges.. this required me to space out the top much further then the bottom… spaced the rad inward a bit up top and it cleared… but could easily contact under vibration…. and thanks to new motor mounts and a heavy cam the motor vibrates ALOT… so I ground down the lip. seems to all be clear now. Will probably take DUKES advise and get some of the rubber mounts Clearance between the Rad and the Alt is tighter… but still has a good solid finger gap so good enough for me

Yea as busta said grab a cheap coat hanger and use it to figure out where your bends need to be the match it over to the line, use a sharpie to mark where you need to bend it. Then either "rent" (free…) a bender from o'reilly and bend them or if you are careful and slow you can make the bend around a larger … like 19mm… socket. I just used the coat hanger method to re-do all the hard lines in the car… all new brake lines… was a bitch… but worth it I guess. if you want to buy a bender… I just bought the eastwood (i think) 180 bender and bending pliers… but it was like 60 bucks… They both worked pretty well… but you can "rent" one from orielly for free Just be slow and precise with the steel lines from O'reilly. They can and will kink. but if you take your time you'll be fine.

Planning on it! I should get some of those…

So she is back on the Ground!! Took it for a quick spin around the block. everything seems ok… except my temp gauge decided to stop working… should have definitely gotten hot enough to register but the needle didn't move. It has been finicky in the past but I am nervous to run it with out that gauge. Could this be from draining and refilling the system? any recommendations on what to trouble shoot next? Pics to come I promise! Need to pull em off my phone and onto photo bucket

Ok… All is well… Hopefully... Seems like I got really lucky…. Undid the necessary lines, put the springs back in and rebolted up the rear end… got really lucky in that I was able to rebend the hard lines without removing them and make it work… not a pretty as it was before… but after rebreeding the rear end it feels good. and so far no leaks… again... hoping for the best... Tomorrow I will run out and get a radiator cap and then probably bleed the brakes one more time, then put the diff back in and hopefully drop here and drive her! Hopefully… Too late for pics tonight…. more tomorrow

FUCK…. Or Not…. Didn't put the springs back in before putting the crossmember back in and the soft lines need to be removed for the arms to drop low enough…. maybe if I had spring compressors I might be able to squeeze them in there… but need to pull the rear lines apart any way… didn't put the T split back in the same way…. and doesn't work well on the passenger side…. looks like the long line from the prop valve to split will be ok… but might have to rebend the two hard lines out of that….

I'VE GOT BRAKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The project is not done yet… still need to adjust the drums… put the rear springs and diff back in and fill the radiator with coolant… but holy shit I have brakes!!!! about 30-35 feet of tubing including the clutch line and about 2 feet of wasted line.

Ok another update… Much more to come tomorrow and Monday. Hoping to get her back on the ground by monday night... I have an awesome girlfriend. She felt bad for me crawling around on cardboard under the car so she got me a creeper As i teased before I picked up that Koyo radiator so I started to mock it up Some slight fitment issues… the brackets that mount it are a bit short so I will need to space it out with some washers or hopefully something nicer More to come tomorrow---

Christmas came early! More updates to come

sorry hosted on the ugly fbook….. will get em on photo bucket soon …Because … RaceCar…. Proportioning valve set up inside the car and relocated e brake … my bench is too small... Updated… reposted photos

Hot damn... Between this and the 5steazy thread you guys just destroyed my inbox.... And I though I had done a lot of work recently ....

This just showed up- hopefully have it in tonight or tomorrow night. Lokar ebrake handle

What the finished in car proportioning valve will look like... Unfortunately I ran out of tubing so the out put line was too short... But apparently you can get 25' coils of nickle copper line from o'reilly pn# 3300cn so that will be at my local store tomorrow. Hopefully button up the brake system soon. Slowly getting there... Again just praying my flares are tight...

Trying this from my phone... Pardon any typos Teaser shots Bending long brake lines is a bitch That's the front "T" to pass line Here are some teaser shots of my in car brake proportioning valve Once I get the lines bent and attached I'll try and get some rubber edging to clean up the holes

Well I am doing something right! Replaced my clutch hard line as well as the master and bleed it, and so far no leaks! meaning my flares must be OK

Ive been busy- Ripped out the heater core- should have done this a long time ago… nice to have the open space up in the foot well. Also ripped out the stock e-brake handle. Oh yea- Christmas is coming early this year... Got my brake stuff in the other day… this shit is a bitch to bend and flare…. and the worst part is I won't know if all my flares are good until i finish the whole system…. Will have some pictures soon. Made a simple bracket to mount my Proportioning valve inside the car next to the shifter. just need to decide if I want to run my front portion of the rear brake line inside the car to the valve and then underneath after the valve… or underneath and pop it up inside the car to the valve and back under after. will probably do the later - under -> valve-> under as it should make for a cleaner finished look Also ordered the lokar e-brake handle- going to fab a bracket under the car as a cable stop and use the stock wires from the split back. Will update with pics on this when it arrives but not till wednesday. Ordered the Koyo Radiator… here on friday. Pictures to come… hand tight… lots more work to do

For Future reference Russell Speed Bleeders Fronts are 639560 10mmx1.0 (Assuming you are still running stock 510 brakes) Rears are 639570 7mmx1.0 (Assuming you are still running stock drums)

MC's are easy… just make sure to hit those line nuts with some PB blaster a day or two ahead of time. If you bend or snap those you'll have to replace them. If they come off clean then its a total of about 6 nuts… and a friend to push the pedal. Or get some russel speed bleeders and do it yourself. I can look up the part numbers on the speed bleeders, I just put them in my car

So now she sits… ordered parts and tools yesterday. Ive got a flare tool, bending pliers, and 180 degree bender coming as well as 25' of NickelCopper brake tubing (supposed to be the easiest to bend), and a proportioning adjuster for the rears. Also picked up a Wildwood Reservior for the brake master to allow for more fluid on the rear end of it… hoping it fits… oh yea a velcro Fire Extinguisher roll bar mount as well. and the necessary T's and line nuts I will need. So my current thought process is to get rid of the "safety" switch that is right after the master. So basically the front brakes will go from the master to a T to each side. The rears will go from the master to the proportioning valve and then a T and out to each side. I think I am going to make a bracket and mount the proportioning valve inside the car next to the shifter on the passenger side. Also to make it easier to run the front passenger line and to save some weight I am thinking about pulling my heater core… I am in Cali now! no need for that crap. And words of advice on removing that? Also thinking about replacing the radiator since the coolant will all be drained. Sounds like the Koyo is the best option? Here is a shot of my current "to-do" or thoughts list Other plans while the car is up is to rerun the batter cable inside the car- should probably add a fuse??? New e-brake cable - ( would love to relocate that as well…. but more money… that Lokar handle looks pretty awesome) Also thinking about replacing the clutch MC and line - both are pretty ugly. Is the clutch line the same size as the brake lines? slave cylinder was replaced not that long ago. Further down the road… I am really thinking about picking up a newer subaru 4.44 diff and swapping in an older center unit to make it usable.. to quick?? Also looking to swap in some Corbeau racing seats since they have a bolt in bracket for the 510 Then front and rear coil overs, with camber plates up front …. the rest will be a long way off

While it was up I also noticed the front fuel filter was filthy So I replaced it… and replaced the rear and pulled that apart as well Lots of crap in that one too…. Decided to clean my bench off before pulling all the lines so I finished up an old project of putting and open center unit back in the 3.7 I stole the LSD unit for the 4.11 from. Bringing my diff total to 3.7 Open, 3.9 LSD, 4.11 LSD and a dead 3.9. Beers and Datsuns! Then I got down to business and pulled all the hard lines- had to cut some of them to make it easier to get out

Shots from the fun run - Got here home and put her up on stands Did some funky line bending… needed a 14 and 18" line… but Oreilly only had 12 and 20 so I got two 20s Also installed some russel speed bleeders- Damn I should have done that earlier… so much easier!!! Ill try and get the part numbers latter Anyway bleed the lines and there was a leak on the passenger side. wasn't stocked on the bend I did so I replaced that one again… bled the system… all was good… put some extra pressure on the pedal to make sure it was good… pedal went to the floor… a different juncture went out… Decided fuck it and put the whole car up, time to rip out all the hard lines and replace them Ended up pulling the whole rear end out while i was at it to make it easier to access the lines Want to go find the guy who welded the exhaust together and smack him with an exhaust flange… Only one junction right after the header… that was it… so had to drop the whole rear end with the exhaust through the crossmember… tubes too big to pull through the x-member.

After seeing Kalani's dime and how quickly his paint came back to life I decided to save mine- A little bit of elbow grease and some compound and then wax... Not perfect but definitely brought some shine back. Also did the compression test… but that info is a page or two back. Changed her oil and even got my girlfriend to wash my truck … I just sat back and had a beer B) Then took her into the city before headed up to Busta's place again While at Busta's I changed the motor mounts - hell of a difference- those pics are back a little ways… also noticed that my rear brakes were leaking… reservoir was dry… oh well filled it up and ripped the shit out of her the next day

Well start with loading her up in CT - Had my good buddy Chris help me out and drive it over to the transporter A week and a half later… Filthy… but made it to California. For anybody interested Golden Key Express was awesome! Very easy to deal with- only catch it it must be a runner. They were even nice enough to let me load all my spare parts in the trunk and race tires in the back seat Once here I tore apart the 3.9 I got with that spare rear end and put in my spare LSD unit. Now I have a 3,9 LSD and a 4.11 in the car Then I took her for a run up to busta's place Then the following weekend down Skyline to 9 and back up highway 1

Been a while since I have updated this thread…. at least myself… Going to go ahead and rehost some pics, so there may be some repeats. As she currently sits she is up on Jackstands with no brakes… I ripped out all the hard lines after a few leaks and decided to just replace them all. Parts and tools are en route. Any way heres the update...

Good thing you got that spare motor at the shop to brake in.