spudly13

im totally down, just let me know when!

man one day seemed like forever! I repaired my header, and also gave a go at tempering it. heated it up til most of if was red hot and then dunked it in oil. we shall see how long it lasts. bov is installed, and i had to weld a nipple into my intake mani. Pitot tube is in, i have it sized pretty damn close to the quater inch for every inch theory. we shall see on that too. AFR is all hooked up, however after an hour on the phone with innovate tech support, we concluded i had a faulty gauge, no worries though, its under a 6 month warranty! so i next day aired a cord so i can still run the wideband without the gauge through my laptop. it will be here tomorrow. bung is welded into my downpipe. and the lc1 is free air calibrated ready to be installed once i have the cord. our tig welder is acting up, and until we find out whats wrong with it im holding off on the intercooler. we made it work enough to do the bov and pitot but its uuugggllyyy. hopefully i can get a cold air tached up tomorrow. messed with my timing a bit today as well, retarded it a bit. Seems to be running pretty good, i did a 5psi launch from a dead start. dry pavement, new tires, spinning first and half of second, getting a little sideways until it caught and took off. Hopefully with the wideband hooked up to my laptop tomorrow i can get this thing tuned in a lot better. Vintage, if you ever really wanna use the afr, weld a bung into your exhaust and plug it, the setup is pretty easy to remove, all self contained except for a ground and a power wire.

hahaha hey now... meybe 18 seconds.... but not 20! Thatd be fun to head out to monroe on one of there practice days or something! As soon as its runnin good, and i get it on a dyno, im in lol

Same here, i dont quite understand why that method works better. pressures pressure isnt it? but i may just have to give it a shot. can i run both bowl vents off one pitot tube?

i just started hearing about those pitot tubes as well, im not 100% sure how they work, but from what ive read they work a lot better then running off my air intake box. I was confused where it goes or is it more then one? i think i know how to make it it, im just not sure where to put it and what size to use...

I picked up an innovate motorsports LC-1 setup, its pretty cool, came with the software you can put on your computer and what not, Ill see about those quick disconnects lol i dunno though, sounds like a lotta extra work ;) That fuel management link didnt work... thats what im mostly researching now as well, if you can get it to work thatd be great! Im fine being a guinea pig, lol half the fun is problem solving and fixing parts!

Finally! a well needed wideband setup! Also picked up an intercooler, air filter, and some exhaust flanges today. Gunna go to town over the next few days.... thats the plan anyway!

There cromodoras, they come off of some old italian cars, such as Alfa Romeo. Nothing special to make them fit. i run little 5mm spacers in the rear, but there not nessecary by any means

hahaha alright you got me there, cause i wouldnt say mines quite proper and tuned in yet. Im gunna jump out on a limb and say currently as we speak i have ONE of the very FEW l16 bike carbd boosted motors, running anyway

Seriously...and im only 18, sure my stuff doesnt always work and isnt the cleanest in the world, but all it takes is motivation and the will power to tear into it. If only .1% could do it.... Id hate tojust watch everyone else even work on there cars....

The two sets in particular that you posted have electronic shit on them and are more like individual throttle bodies. the older r1 carbs do not they are still like a little throttle body but more like a traditional carb with a slide and needle and what not. On top of that you can find the r1 carbs pretty cheap, i picked up my set for 60 bucks on CL

people are such negative nancys, it really truely is not that hard

Meybe i missed something, but if he has a fully rebuilt motor, what money would we need for a swap? Haha alright you got me there, i guess i shoulda read the whole thing ;) im not patient enough to sit and wait for a car to come to me lol but if you can do it, rebuilding a reliable drivetrain, then buying a somewhat complete car wouldnt be a bad way to go.

tuning the carbs N/a is easy. Its basically the same as my 2 stroke quad carb just 4 of em. i get the basics of tuning. whats throwing me off is the boost. and everyone keeps saying well you need an fpr. But if it doesnt enrichen the mixture and my bowls dont run dry under long pulls, (i know im getting reptative) i shouldnt need one. correct? Sorry to clutter the r1 thread with stupid tuning questions. Meybe i should get an old book on needle profiling and go to town.....

This may have been said already, but the only problem i see with building a motor/tranny first is it really limits what car you can buy in the end. lets face it, 510s arent everywhere, and genreally one without a motor in it will be someones abandoned project, and who knows what kinda jimmy rigged stuff they had goin on, sure you can come back with "well meybe ill find one with a blown motor" but again, how many 510s are really for sale at any given time? and if that were the case, it would be cheaper to just fix the blown motor! just my opinion

Guess what finally showed after over 3 weeks and an ebay claim later. If i didnt want the parts now i would send them back just to spite him. but then it would probally take 6 weeks to just get a refund. didnt even come with any mounting plates like it said either. But hey aerosport bags made it and will be in sometime around sunday or monday. ill probally pull the rear sway too (been waiting for the front bags first) and finish the rear bags (make em lower) Pics later! Also i had a major fail with my homemade header. pics of that to sunday

It was a pretty badass show/meet, never been to canby though, next year for sure! (as long as these dont fall on the same weekend again)

Okay, soooo if my bowls dont run dry under boost, i should be good? or does it also help enrichen the fuel mixture?

This mallory fuel pressure regulator is our most popular regulator for several reasons. Its good price, readily available, and can be used in a wide variety of applications! It also it has a 1-1 boost reference for turbo charged, or supercharged applications to prevent fuel starvation common with a static (non rising) fuel pressure regulator. This regulator is designed for carbureted fuel systems and is adjustable from 4 psi to 40 psi fuel pressure, and with the boost reference line hooked up the fuel pressure will raise 1 pound (fuel pressure) for every pound of boost to prevent fuel starvation by keeping the correct pressure in the carburetor at all times. Im not sure where else to ask this....hopefully someone here can help. now these are designed to prevent fuel startvation by increasing the fuel presssure with boost. makes sense. my question is this. you run boost lines to the float bowls and they pressurize the bowls, allowing fuel to flow thru the jet so the boost doesnt push back through instead. now so long as your not running out of gas, you dont need one of these regulators to increase pressure with boost right? or am i thinking about it wrong. does the added regulator pressure somehow force more fuel through the jet and into the motor under boost? or is the pressure strictly just to get the fuel into the bowl? if thats the case i dont think i need one? this sounds confusing and hopefully someone understands what im talking about!

Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator This mallory fuel pressure regulator is our most popular regulator for several reasons. Its good price, readily available, and can be used in a wide variety of applications! It also it has a 1-1 boost reference for turbo charged, or supercharged applications to prevent fuel starvation common with a static (non rising) fuel pressure regulator. This regulator is designed for carbureted fuel systems and is adjustable from 4 psi to 40 psi fuel pressure, and with the boost reference line hooked up the fuel pressure will raise 1 pound (fuel pressure) for every pound of boost to prevent fuel starvation by keeping the correct pressure in the carburetor at all times. Im not sure where else to ask this....hopefully someone here can help. now these are designed to prevent fuel startvation by increasing the fuel presssure with boost. makes sense. my question is this. you run boost lines to the float bowls and they pressurize the bowls, allowing fuel to flow thru the jet so the boost doesnt push back through instead. now so long as your not running out of gas, you dont need one of these regulators to increase pressure with boost right? or am i thinking about it wrong. does the added regulator pressure somehow force more fuel through the jet and into the motor under boost? or is the pressure strictly just to get the fuel into the bowl? if thats the case i dont think i need one? this sounds confusing and hopefully someone understands what im talking about!

it sure is pretty, lol but for 400 bucks ill stick with my free homemade one! haha

Lol, nah ill just make him stand there while im driving, i was just trying get the front to drop some to get a better idea how the flares look, without the car being assembled i dont wanna lower it anymore until all the weights in it.

Thanks! we custom made the rears, im still on the fence about them, but i think once there all blended and attached properly ill like them The fronts are full fiberglass fenders, there not made anymore, i forget who made them but there over 15 years old, and never been mounted!