Eomund

Hrmmmm. New one on me, never seen that happen. Might wanna get that fixed before you get a new speedo then?

Been watching for 14 hours straight. 10 Hours to go. Almost every car in the LP2 class is running the Nissan GTR engine. ****SPOILER ALERT**** Might have our first Japanese winner since the Mazda 757. Toyota is kicking ass and taking names right now. Ford is doing great too. Currently they are a lap down on Ferrari, but still have a damn good chance of taking a win.

I freaking love this. I will have to try it. I'm with Mike, don't spend a lot of time on other forums, and when I do, I always come screaming back to this nut-house. The one thing that I love about this place, is pretty much everyone here does their own wrenching. I honestly feel, even if someone asks a stupid question (and yes, there are stupid questions, not just un-asked ones), I will do what I can to point them in the right direction, and not just ridicule them. Then pester for pics, or post tits :)

How could the speedometer drip trans fluid??? As far as the speedo dancing and squealing, I had the same issue in my 521. Not sure about the 620, but the 521 speedometer came apart extremely easily. I pulled mine apart, and applied a very light coat of grease to the bearing for the magnet, and for good measure, shoved some grease in the input hole as well. I've been driving on it for about 2 months now without issue. If you do this, I will say this. It will continue to bounce around a little bit at first, but as the grease wears in, it will subside and act normal afterwards. I know the 620 is a bit different, but I can't imagine it would be much more difficult. As far as leading tranny fluid? Unless your trans is somehow putting fluid into your speedo cable line, you might have a completely separate issue. One that I can't even begin to explain.

One cause can be a worn spot in your break lines too. Easiest way to tell if this is the problem, is does the break pressure even out after a few breaks? If it does, this is likely the issue. Check and replace your worn lines. If there are no wear spots on your lines, it means one of the lines might have air in it, and you need to bleed your lines. If the problem is constant, what everyone else said. Something is out of adjustment, or out of true. I dealt with a worn break line for a little while. Tiny little wear spot, hard to see (it was and almost new line too). Replaced the bad line, and viola, the problem was fixed.

That sounds a lot like U-Joints to me. That center bearing bushing that Mike pointed out can cause this as well.

I went to a glass shop, and they sold me some off the shelf and it worked perfectly. I just had to trim it up to fit.

My oem door handle cracked a while back, and I decided to go custom instead of sourcing a replacement. The nice thing is if I decide I don't want the wood finish, I can always go a lacquer finish later on. I used solid oak, which I've been making drawer handles out of for years, so it should hold up.

As you said you changed the shaft, they can be out of balance, and usually are weighted by the factory. Is it possible the driveshaft is out of balance? Alternatively, what's the condition of your U-joints?

I rebuilt the whole steering system when I go the truck, including greasing the king pins. Everything in the steering was so sloppy, I was afraid something was loose or missing, so i replaced and lubed everything I could. The king pins arent perfect, unfortunately. But they arent in any danger of breaking, and the truck tracks super straight. I will want to replace them one day down the road when I can afford it.

It wasnt vibrating actually. The second it started vibrating, I got her home and shut her down. Ive actually had the u-joints purchased for a few months now planning to do it too. If id known they were this screwed, would have done it when I bought the truck,

Ya, I noticed that. I can't think of anything that would do that. It's on the inside too. I'm wondering if someone ground it down for some idiotic reason or another. Where it's worn down is fairly smooth. Thankfully the rest are fine. Was hoping to be able to drive my truck tomorrow. Unfortunately not now. If anyone has a source outside of the classifieds (eBay or possible some shop or another), please let me know. I did check and using both google and ebay and came up with goose egg.

So went to change out my U-Joints and one was flat out broken: Yaaaaa, really broken. No Needle Bearings. Unfortunately it has been like this for a while apparently and chipped my flange: Long and short, I now have a classified ad out for this part. http://community.ratsun.net/classifieds/item/7422-want-to-buy-datsun-driveshaft-yolk-flange/ Just an advisory. If you haven't checked them at all, might want to think about it.

I have an update on the headlight ring debacle. I can say the rings I received are indeed different than the original headlight rings. BUT, they still worked perfectly. The original (broken) ring The new ring The rings on top showing they line up. I didn't get a picture of it installed, (maybe later). But the holes line up perfectly. Now Ima keep the other 3 for spares :)

Is it bad that I own like 10 of those?

I noticed this too. The ebay pictures, however weren't. We'll see... One item of note. Finished getting the halogen installed, what a difference. Seriously worth it.

I don't think so.If I'm not mistaken, they moved to dual headlights on the 520 in the 66 model. Might need to fact check that. In fact, there's a 520 w/ dual headlamps here in town rotting that the old bastard owner won't sell. (Been sitting for 17 years, guy's a horder). I have ordered the 510 retainers. I'll let you guys know if they work or not. And if not, I'll prolly be selling them :p

Nah. Truck had a front end impact at some Point in its life. If I had my guess, it prolly got a bit mangled, and instead of fixing it right, the cut a big o'l section out of it. So fixing this one would require some fab work.

Just looked it up. The part numbers your giving are for 66-68 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1965-1972/electrical-common/front-parking-turn-signal-lamps/dual-(to-apr-68)the ones I'm referencing are 68-72. I have a 72. The site gives the Nissan part numbers along with the original microphiche images. And hey, if the 510 retainers don't work, maybe I can sell them on.

As far as the 'inner' and 'outer', per carpartsmanual.com, on the late model 521, they're the same part number. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1965-1972/electrical-common/front-parking-turn-signal-lamps/dual-(from-may-68) It's on the fiche as part #9. Same for both. I did notice the 510 has a different part number, but they do use the same headlight, and per the ebay photo, they look identical. For $20 for 4, I'll give it a shot. I'll post up whether they're the same or not.

And per the ebay link, it appears to be the same as the 510. That's the kind of info I was looking for.

both are actually the same. It was the low beam that was broken, and I swapped it with the high beam, just in case it,rattles the light dead, I'd rather it be the high. This was more an information gathering thread than a 'wtb'. Seeing if the bezzel is the same as like a 65 Nova or something.

So I was working on my headlight swap to halogen. While pulling everything apart, I found one of my retaining rings is badly broken. I can't seem to find the bloody thing. Any parts available that match ours? If not, what's the,usual solution to replace these?