Stoffregen Motorsports

Get in there and do it yourself? It's peeling the layers of an onion. All you need is a drill and bits, a chisel or seam buster, a grinder with a cutoff wheel, a grinder with a wire wheel, some paint and a welder.

To clarify, when you say it catches sometimes, do you mean it starts sometimes or it cranks sometimes? The starting system is to most basic system in the entire vehicle. It has a battery, battery cables, a solenoid and a starter. The ground cable needs to be grounded to the block and to the frame or body to make a complete circuit. I would try cranking it by jumping the solenoid. It is possible for a worn out key switch to cause cranking issues. If the problem is in fact heat related, it could be an old starter going bad. It could also be that the cables are just junk. Old cables go bad from heat and corrosion. They should be a minimum of 4ga, but 2ga is better. If the terminals are the screw on variety, with the two 10mm or 7/16 head bolts clamping the frayed cable to the terminal, those are horrible as there is virtually no protection against corrosion where the cable makes the connection.

Thanks

Looks like a Mallory.

The teeth are called fingers and they can be shaped differently and look different, but when bolted down to the flywheel, they could end up the same height. Speculating of course, but I have seen this. So bolt it up with the disc and compare the finger depth that way.

Quote - "just add any aftermarket ECU" If you need to supply the ECU, it doesn't seem worth it. EZefi or FiTech would be easier.

Could be the one really interested bidder laying down suppressing fire. He/she could be saying - back off, this is mine. So yeah, could be good or bad.

Ewwww. Not judging...

Good call. The Datsun mounts are great and still available too. The Energy mount is a bit more compact, if that matters.

Yeah, a $30k opening bid isn't a bad way to start off.

Really, zero porting. There is "blueprinting" that can be done, but this is limited to valve job (three angle) and surfacing to the low limit. Rocker geometry via thinner lash pads too. Oh, and since the L16 cam was superseded by the L20B cam, it was legal to install one of those as a "replacement part". Liberties have been known to take place in IT or spec class racing. I've seen heads that have been ported then shot peened to look as-cast.

@Logical1 - thank you. I have seen guys sand them down on a large belt sander before. I might try that if WW3 were pending, but not under any other circumstances. There are obvious pitfalls with doing this. A - you have little control over the flatness of the surface, and B - it looks like it might be more than .050" deep. That's a lot to remove from a cylinder head. It would essentially render the head useless to any rebuilder. You could always weld it up and sand it flat with a block sander. I would definitely try that here in my shop, even with no world war.

Auction started this morning - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1989-toyota-land-cruiser-fj62-217/

There are hand control systems for people with limited use of their legs.

At the very minimum you are going to need to surface the head. If the damage is too much, the head will need to be welded. The piston is obviously junk, but if the rings are ok, then it will probably run ok.