e12-80 Distributor question

[1fatsz]

Hi all i have a few questions...I just purchased a summit street strip ignition for my 240z...it currently has the 79 e12-80 dis with the modual...my question is what are the red and green wires in the distributor..i know its for the mag pick up but which one is -ground or +pos..can i even use these two wires for direct hookup without the e12-80?

 

I installed the ignition yesterday but i don't seem to be getting any trigger signals...Big thanks in advance

[banzai510(hainz)]

I assumed its wired like this,just do both POWER hook up at the PLUS side of the coil.

 

 

 

what is a

summit street strip ignition for my 240z??????????????????????

 

WARNING do not use a point type coil unless you keep the ballast resistor in there. If so you hook the the module to the + side of the ballast resisitor.

Edited January 16, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[1fatsz]

its this universal ignition from summit...

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-850602&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

I am also in a bit trouble with the wiring...who ever had the car before me ran all the wires to the positive on the coil.. such as a fuel pump wire and a black/white wire that is from the factory wiring harness...its seems to have something to do with the ignition key being on...but cut the green/white and other black/white wire and left them disconnected...do you happen to know what these wires were?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont know Z cars but the 240Z will be close to a 510 or a standard pointsystem ignition.

 

The newer Distributor come with the timming plate and mount?

 

sctatch the multi spark discharge for right now.

Look at this diagram I sent

The Blk / WHT is the KEY to ON position 12volt ON

The BLK/BLU is the "HOT START" 12Volt in start position,

 

If you have these you can get the car going. Your wiring is fine.

 

Now you really need to tell us if this is stock? Stock points was in there then you bought Later EI ignition.

 

also just to make sure ,did the last distributor rotor point on the same spark plug wire as this newer distributor.

Or was this car running before?

if not you might want to put the Motor on TDC compression stroke to make sure the rotor is pointing on #1 pluge wire and fire order is correct.

[banzai510(hainz)]

after reading you intail post again I assume the car was running fine before the Later dizzy was installed?

[1fatsz]

car was running before i tried to install ignition...this year z does come with points but was already converted to EI.....the only problem i am having is figuring out the wires from th factory harness and getting the trigger signal from the distributor...I disconected the e12-80 modual from the dis and ran the red and green wires dirctly to the magnetic pick wires on the new ignition with no success...

 

before i forget is it safe to leave the the black white wire and fuel pump positive cable hooked up to the pos coil terminal? or will this damage them do to the high voltage?

[1fatsz]

after reading you intail post again I assume the car was running fine before the Later dizzy was installed?

this dizzy was already installed in car there is no dizzy swapping involved...

[banzai510(hainz)]

the black white wire and fuel pump positive cable hooked up to the pos coil terminal?

 

That is a hookey set up to get power for a fuel pump.

A fuel pump might draw alot of power.

 

I run stock fuel pumps.

 

In 510s there is a spare airconditioner power wire under the fuse box that is not used.thats is 12 volts when key is ON

I dont know Z cars but its up to you to find another source for power the fuel pump. Maybe others can HELP ME out on these. DAZENMIKE???????

 

 

I would hook it back up as you had it to make sure its OK . get rid of the fuel pump from that circut

B is + 12volt or wht/blk wire from car also to the +side of the coil

C is the - side to the coil.

the rest I would think is in the instruction that you have.

Edited January 16, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[1fatsz]

yea i check the draw from the coil and it was only getting 9 volts with key on because of the Fuel pump...so it will be ok to leave the black/white wire hooked up to the coil correct?

 

as for the ignition hook up.. i did as the manual says but i don't understand why its not putting out the trigger signal...I hooked it up according to figure 9

 

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-850602.pdf

 

BTW thanks for your help i really appreciate it...

Edited January 16, 2009 by 1fatsz

[banzai510(hainz)]

think you use figure 8

 

1) the blk/wht wire from your car which is the 12volts

2) the "B" of the blk moduel,needs 12volts also

3) the red wire of that MSD clone.

 

So these need to be all SHORTED together. Where will you do this?I guess make a insualted terminal block.

Turn Key ON it will power the Blk Module and turn ON the MSD clone.

 

The "C" of the blk module will go to the WHT wire of the MSD clone. this will trigger it

 

I have NO idea on the tach HOOKUP as most are off the NEG side of the coil(stock)

 

I can only assume if you used figure #9 you lost the 12volt going to module to power it up ,thats why there was no trigger pulse. using the megnetic plug in MSD clone????

 

THIS WILL BE YOUR OWN doing as I have never done one myself incase it BLOWS up.

 

I dont like the MSD6s due to they have a high faulure rate.But seem to make starting EZer

The match box in my opinion is fine.

 

Should maybe find a Z car site where people know more about hooking these up.

 

 

If in doubt DONT DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited January 16, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[Icehouse]

I didn't read everything (supposed to be working) but the tach goes through one of those wires, the main power one if I remember right...

[banzai510(hainz)]

thats right

I forgot on 510s some power goes thru the tach(called a inseries circut)

IF YOU HAD A SSS TACH from the FACTORY

 

otherwise the above would not pertain to a 510.

 

I dont now Z car wiring best to get better help. or look at the diagram on the Z tach set up.

Edited January 16, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[1fatsz]

Well the ignition box has a wire for the tach signal...its the yellow wire...the red wire has been hooked up to the 12volt source under the dash and i have the main power leads to the battery itself...the ignition has a built in diagnostic with a red led that blinks 3 times when i turn the key to on which it is doing..but it is suppose to blink when you crank it...if it does not blink it is a triggering problem which is the problem i am having...

 

Im not sure if two wires from the dizzy are hooked up right or if it even matters..Here is a wiring diagram for the 240z

 

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1972_240z.gif

[banzai510(hainz)]

1) the blk/wht wire from your car which is the 12volts

2) the "B" of the blk moduel,needs 12volts also

3) the red wire of that MSD clone.

 

put all above together

 

 

The "C" of the blk module will go to the WHT wire of the MSD clone. this will trigger it

 

 

 

Tach hook up?????? I have no clue beside hook the WHT and YELLOW wire together

 

Personally I would leave what you had already.

 

 

Good Luck as I really dont know the rest.

[1fatsz]

ok i figured out why it wasnt working...the black and white wire that was for the switched 12volts ON was preventing the coil from firing...turns out i didnt even need that wire....

 

 

I still have the problem of it not firing from the dizzy though...i have hooked it up evey way i can think of with no success...am i suppose to use the white points wire for the EI dizzy?

Edited January 17, 2009 by 1fatsz

[banzai510(hainz)]

the black and white wire that was for the switched 12volts ON was preventing the coil from firing

 

this should tell the BOX to turn ON(POWER it up), NOT be hooked up to the coil, use the MSDBOX wires designated to go to the coil.

 

Did you hook it up like what I said???

[datzenmike]

Hook it up as per figure 8.

 

This set up uses the signal from the matchbox that fires the coil, to signal the summet box to fire the coil. The white wire is connected to the wire from the dizzy that used to go to the coil negative terminal. Should work.

 

And get everything off the + terminal of that coil. Whoever hooked the fuel pump to it because it was handy, just wasn't thinking. This robs voltage needed by the coil.

Edited January 17, 2009 by datzenmike

[banzai510(hainz)]

except the ignition switch ON????

Mike you sure. I think it would hook to the small red wire that is the key switch part of the drawing???

[datzenmike]

Corrected it. Yeah was thinking stock. Hook up figure 8 and remove any fuel pump wires to the coil. Yeah... that better. Ooohh coffee's ready!

[1fatsz]

I just figured out the problem!!!...it was due to two power sources fighting over 12 volts which drop the currant just enough to not fire the ignition...I ended up having to rewire some stuff but it all worked out great :D..

 

I must say what a difference..car runs really well with minimal exhaust fumes out the tail pipe now.I got the plugs gaped at 60 and it works well... it also has a little more pep over the e12-80 by itself...overall it was worth the money spent.

 

I would like to thank you guys for helping out. This has been a pita but it all turned out good...

[datzenmike]

Be sure to keep the wires, cap, rotor and anything high voltage related in good shape. A 0.060" gap takes a lot of voltage to jump. As you add more throttle it takes even more voltage to fire the plug. Electricity always looks for the shortest path to ground. Could be degraded insulation, dirt, oil, or carbon tracking, but it will find it. Glad you got what you wanted.