ok I think i know the answer

[jerryt]

I tried rebuilding this carb. The float I still can't get it right. Is there a way to adjust the float? And I assume the gas level is in the middle of the glass view. I there a correct way? And if I have to buy a new one which model is it? Its on a L16 motor with a manual transmission

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

DAF 328 series carburetor.

 

The float is adjusted by bending tab that bears against the needle valve. If carburetor is on the vehicle lift the float gently till the needle valve is closed. Float should be horizontal. If off the vehicle turn the carburetor upside down and allow the float to hang down closing the needle valve, again float should be horizontal. This should allow the fuel level to be at the line on the front glass or half way.

 

Commonly, once filled with gas this is not perfect and it may need fine adjustments to get correct. Proper functioning of the carburetor relies on the fuel level being correct.

[jerryt]

Thank you very much. I noticed the carb ran bad. So I took off the air cleaner and saw the float bowl completely  full. My wife said she wants to buy a new carb she saw on amazon. Is this the same carb on 1972 and older for l1600?

ThanksJerry

[datzenmike]

Amazon? Those will be Chinese knock offs. More or less for $110 you get what you pay for. Nissan does not sell them but they would be 5x that amount.

 

 

Over filled float chamber could be...

 

Float incorrectly set.

Dirt stuck in the needle valve above the float so it can't close.

If you have an electric fuel pump it might be too high a fuel pressure.

 

These are far cheaper to fix that to replace.

 

[jerryt]

true on all of that. Im going to go old school and fix it first.

Thanks

Jerry

 

[jerryt]

ok I took off the carb on my l16 motor. float was way to high. plugs fouled. had to take out plugs and spin the motor and a bunch of gas came out. I thin this motor was sitting for 25 years and the carb needs to be boiled and perhaps done by a pro. I mean it's pretty funky. I checked the cap for points and it looks ok. im calling a carb rebuilder Monday.

Thanks

Jerry

[jerryt]

oh and any thoughts on those down draft weber carbs to replace my Hitachi carb?

thanks

jerry

[datzenmike]

Yes, they work well. Just make sure you get a genuine Weber and not a knock off. Contact Pierce Manifolds.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Pierce or Redline

 

32/36 DGV with electric choke will give you the best overall performance and is easy to install. I prefer mechanical choke myself, so you may consider going that route.

[jerryt]

Hi On my L16 motor the coil and blast resistor was mounted on a metal plate bolted to date engine. The ignition failed and it was a beer to take off. on my Hanes manual it doesn't show where the sock coil and ballast resistor was mounted. Can anyone tell me where to mount these parts? I want it to be easily serviceable and not a bear to fix.

Thanks

Jerry

[jerryt]

Just an update. I adjusted my float on my carburetor and it did nothing. But I did notice a lot of unburned fuel coming out the tail pipe. Which led me to ask why all the unburned fuel? I checked the coil and ballast resistor with a multi meter and found out they were both bad. So I ordered new parts and will install them. Cross your finger. Test everything instead of just throwing parts at it.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

It's condensation, (water) and normal. Did you totally disconnect them before doing a resistance check? If the coil and ballast were bad it wouldn't run would it.

[datzenmike]

On the 510 the coil and ballast are mounted across from the distributor on the left inner fender.

[jerryt]

thanks for the quick response. The previous guy mounted them on a plate that bolted to where the smog pump used to be. Really a pain for maintenance.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

Coils are not really meant to handle so much vibration. I know some other car makers mount them on the engine but for Nissans I would leave them alone where they are. If you look you'll find the mounting holes unless the whole point is to fill these in.

[jerryt]

My Datsun L16 motor started smoking and I started testing everything. Carb float was too high adjusted. Ignition died replaced it and the motor still smoked. So before I tried to take off carb. I decided to do a compression test. Cylinder 1 120 number 2 90 number 3 and 4 is 120 see a pattern? Now before I jump off the deep end I heard. if you put a mix of atf and oil and in the spark plug hole and the pressure goes up it s rings? I know my luck was running out this motor sat for 20 years. What do you all say? And since it sat for so long Im putting in s new clutch throw out bearing and diagram. Just my luck on a Monday.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

Engines rarely begin to smoke suddenly. Is this..

 

White...... steam from coolant getting into the combustion chamber. Probably just a bad head gasket.

Black....... Un-burnt fuel from excessively rich mixture. Could be carburetor flooding, choke stuck on.

Blue......... Likely oil getting past worn rings, bad valve seals. Sudden extreme smoke, check your oil level. I've seen fuel pump diaphragms leak fuel into crank case over filling it, crankshaft splashes it onto cylinder walls, rings can't control it.

 

Have a look at the plugs. If #2 is black and oily that narrows it down.

 

Before a compression test check the valve clearances first. A tight enough valve would leak compression. 120 on all 4 would be ok, barely, if not using oil.

 

 

Why exactly are you replacing the throw out bearing and I assume the clutch diaphragm?????

 

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

adjust the rocker arm valves and see if the cylinder increases. Maybe a tight valve usuaully a exhaust on a L16 as the seat were softer and sink.

 

If it smokes its sucking in oil or just worn out/

 

I would just pull the PVC hose and at idle its stinky then most likey the rings

 

Maybe valve seals

[jerryt]

Thank you for all the responses. I have a white smoke kind of smells sweet. I havent checked the oil level or if there is water. The spark pugs are new. There is no coloring on the plug. I will check the valve clearance on cylinder number 2. I also will check the water in the radiator. I was also leaning towards a blown head gasket but I wanted other opinions. I had originally thought carb problem I saw my float was high so I adjusted it. A little back story on my car. It's a Datsun 1600 in a 1926 model t. It sat for at least twenty years. I got it started and it was running. recently I started it and I got white smoke in the past 2 weeks. . That's why blown head gasket or ring failure came to mind. I was thinking of taking the motor out and rebuilding it if was bad. The car sat for so long was the reason I figured to chang e the clutch. But one thing at a time. I will let you know what happens.

Thanks

Jerry

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I thought I replied to this, but I don't see my response.

 

If it has been sitting for twenty years, I would first get some heat cycles in it before I made any assessment. Drive it for five hundred miles and see if anything changes.

 

Sitting for that long means that all of your fuel, cooling, brake and clutch hydraulic systems are going to nee to be replaced or gone through. Seals dry up and rubber deteriorates. Hoses, seals, etc.

[datzenmike]

47 minutes ago, jerryt said:

Thank you for all the responses. I have a white smoke kind of smells sweet. I havent checked the oil level or if there is water. The spark pugs are new. There is no coloring on the plug. I will check the valve clearance on cylinder number 2. I also will check the water in the radiator. I was also leaning towards a blown head gasket but I wanted other opinions. I had originally thought carb problem I saw my float was high so I adjusted it. A little back story on my car. It's a Datsun 1600 in a 1926 model t. It sat for at least twenty years. I got it started and it was running. recently I started it and I got white smoke in the past 2 weeks. . That's why blown head gasket or ring failure came to mind. I was thinking of taking the motor out and rebuilding it if was bad. The car sat for so long was the reason I figured to chang e the clutch. But one thing at a time. I will let you know what happens.

Thanks

Jerry

 

White is water, sweet smell is antifreeze.

 

Change clutch? Never fix what isn't broken. As stated, check valve clearance. Most likely the head gasket has failed. A $30 gasket will likely bring the #2 compression up near the others. Drive it around some, get some miles on it. Brakes and fuel system will likely start to show need for replacements.

 

The following is important: If replacing the head gasket or having someone else replace it, make damn sure that you know how to properly block the timing chain tensioner from falling out before unbolting the cam sprocket. Five minutes spend doing this correctly will save you five extra hours tearing the front off the engine and putting it back in.

[jerryt]

Thanks Mike. I remember the tear down procedures kind of. It's been about 40 years since I tore down a Datsun 1600. Going back to the suggestion about adjusting the valves in cylinder 2. I read my shop manual and watched a few Youtube videos. Old memory isn't what it used to be. So I understand you put motor at top dead center on the compression stroke. Then you can adjust valves on hole number 1. But here where im confused. They say you can adjust other valves where the cam is sitting lobe facing up? I always thought it was top dead center adjust valve 1. then quarter turn adjust valve on number 2? DidI miss something?

Thsnks

jerry

[jerryt]

My Datsun L16 motor started smoking and I started testing everything. Carb float was too high adjusted. Ignition died replaced it and the motor still smoked. So before I tried to take off carb. I decided to do a compression test. Cylinder 1 120 number 2 90 number 3 and 4 is 120 see a pattern? Now before I jump off the deep end.Any steps I can read on head gasket replacement. I read shop manual but I want other opinions.

Thanks

Jerry

[datzenmike]

This should be in your other post on the same think....

 

You can access and change the title to fit what you are doing and it keeps all the info in one place for people in the future who may be looking for ideas to fix their 510.

 

I can move this post there.

 

 

L series head gasket replacement

 

Last one I did I disconnected the down pipe, removed all the wiring hoses and fuel line to the pump and lifted the head with both manifolds on it. This avoids breaking or stripping a manifold bolt, faster, don't need a manifold gasket. If you want to separate them it's one hell of a lot easier doing so on a work bench!

 

Drain coolant. Remove distributor cap and wires to a safe location. Disconnect the negative ground strap beside #1 spark plug, fuel line, wiring to carburetor including the emissions switch wiring, throttle linkage, heater hose, radiator hose at thermostat housing, temperature gauge sender wire, if there is a by pass hose disconnect from the thermostat housing and the intake at front base of carburetor. 

 

Remove valve cover, put long breaker bar os screwdriver through the cam sprocket to lock it and break the cam sprocket mounting bolt loose but DO NOT REMOVE YET. Set engine to TDC compression stroke on #1. Place in neutral so any bumping of the car will not move the TDC placement. From now on the engine must not be turned!

 

SECURE THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WITH A BLOCK OR A WOODEN WEDGE. This is critical and saves removing the radiator,oil pump, water pump and timing cover to get at to fix. Several hours at least.

 

THIS..

 

NOT THIS...

 

Mark the cam and the timing chain so it goes back together in the same alignment. With tensioner blocked securely NOW remove the cam sprocket.

 

Loosen the ten head bolts starting in the middle and working outward.

 

R..A..D

7....8

3...4

1....2

5...6

9..10

 

DO not forget the two 10mm bolts on the front bottom right and left side that screw down into the timing cover.

 

DO NOT set the head valve side down. Lay on it's side.

DO not turn the cam. It's set for TDC to match the engine.

 

When head comes off there are two alignment dowels that may remain in the head or the block. Retrieve them and save.

 

 

 

 

HEAD OFF.

 

Clean block and head mating surfaces of all traces of old gasket. Don't use wire wheels on the soft aluminum head.

Use a professional straight edge in an X pattern along the length of the head. Try to fit a 0.004" feeler gauge under it. If it does, it's warped and why the gasket blew, and it should be milled flat.

 

This is a good time to replace the valve seals while off and easy to get at. While valves are off their seats inspect the valve faces and seats. Again DO NOT rotate the cam or mark it so it can be returned to TDC with the cam dowel pin at the front at 12 o'clock.

 

That's about it. Don't use any sealer on the block or the head surfaces. Head bolts are reusable if not damaged. Use a good torque wrench and tighten in the same pattern as the removal above. Do all to 20 then repeat to 40 and a final to 60 ft. lbs.

 

Cam sprocket should line up with cam dowel pin, you may need to jostle the cam slightly to get the sprocket on.

 

May have missed something....

[banzai510(hainz)]

On 7/17/2024 at 10:38 AM, jerryt said:

number 2 90

make sure the valve lash on that one is correct