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  • Location
    Los Angeles
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    Datsun 510

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  1. Well I just checked it on both ends as it went thru clevis. It was mushroom on both ends. I agree with you why would someone do this? So I cut it off with a sawzall. I took the offending part and couldn’t figure it out. So I took hardline and screwed it into master. I know I have to bleed it but just wanted to see. The new master has inlet on side in the front. The old one had inlet on the top front. I just had to bend hardware a little. So how do I bolt clevis to pedal? Do I let out rod until it just bolts up to the pedal? thanks jerry
  2. Or here’s a thought cut off the mushroom end. thank jerry
  3. It’s a Frankenstein car. I thought like you the pin goes thru the clevis. I pulled the cotter pin and tried to the pin out. But I think the pin has a mushroom topaz’s won’t come out. So do you think I should cut the pin?
  4. pin goes tru the pedal.. There is a u shaped part at the end of clutch master cylinder. Then the u shape goes around pedal and pin or bolt keeps clutch push rod connected to pedal. Jerry
  5. I am taking off my clutch master cylinder. The master cylinder unbolted but there is a problem. The pushrod is held by a pin that has a lip on it and won’t come off. Also there is no c clip on master cylinder. Should I cut this pin and put a bolt on it when I put everything back together?
  6. Here’s my ford with a Datsun
  7. Hi everyone. I need to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave on my 1971 Datsun transmission. Do I need to bleed both the master cylinder and slave cylinder. If so how do I do this?
  8. Thanks to all. My wife thinks I’m crazy for trying to fix stuff. But it sure feels good when a plan comes together
  9. Well I finally found out my leaking problem. The bezel that bolts to the hitachi carburetor was bent at the bottom. I noticed it when I glanced at the carburetor from the side. I had to bend it to make it lie flat. After that it sealed. Thank you all for the help on my problem carburetor. thanks jerry
  10. No new rubber gasket. Can you still buy the rubber gasket? thanks jerry
  11. Hi all. Well I took everyone advice and check for fuel. And guess what there was no fuel. So I blew out lines and hose’s. Let me give history on my car. It’s a 1926 ford with a l 16 engine. That’s why I ask a lot of questions on Datsun motor. Also I discovered a handle that you have to turn to allow fuel to flow. So now I have fuel in the bowl but it still leaks out of the sight glass. I put rubber gasket glass then paper gasket but it still leaks. Any suggestions on how to stop the leak? thanks jerry
  12. All of the suggestions are great. I thought of the low fuel volume this morning. I will take carburetor off. Invert it to see if float is perpendicular to bowl. I also will take off fuel line to see if I have fuel. I’m kind of leaning towards inlet banjo fitting is clogged. So first is to see if I have fuel. One other question is there a way to adjust the float by turning the needle and seat like on a Holley carburetor? thanks jerry
  13. Ok so rubber gasket. Glass then paper gasket and metal frame. The neoprene float is what came in carburetor. I don’t know history but I do agree it should be brass float. I will try again tomorrow. thanks Jerry t
  14. What about rtv in the channel where the rubber gasket sits? I seem to always get gasket leak on the bottom of float bowl. Does paper gasket go between on either side of glass window? thanks jerryt
  15. Ok I will take off carburetor again. And invert it to see if I can get float to sit level. The float is neoprene on my car. As far as the rubber gasket if it’s torn could I use black rtv? And should I put a little rtv? The car runs if you put gas in the carburetor. But the float won’t fill with gas. Should pour fuel down the vent tubes? thanks jerryt
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