Beavis Clevis

[frankendat]

I have one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/clevis-trailer-pin-mount-66345.html

 

and have one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/atv-hitch-adapter-65961.html

 

I have taken the atv hitch adapter, cut the "thick tow loop" off and enlarged the holes on the sides

 

Tomorrow, I will make sure the holes on the sides of the atv hitch adapter match the holes in the clevis trailer pin mount. The clevis trailer pin mount will be mounted horizontally, rather the vertically; allowing the trailer to pivot up and down, but not side to side. The "trailer" will be single axle and operated like a tag axle on a very short (in inches) tongue, behind a lawn tractor. 

 

Where I could use the assistance of the mighty Ratsun Brain Trust (RBT). What is the name, or type of bushing/bearing that would go through the hole on the side of the clevis trailer pin mount, through the atv hitch adapter, out through the other side of the atv hitch adapter and finally through the hole on the other side of the clevis trailer pin mount. A bushing that would be strong, move freely (grease or scintered bronze?) A pin would probably work, but smooth, less friction movement would free up power to lift a heavier axle (if I power it, the rear lift motor is small) Google "bushings" provides way too many options to sort. I don't think this would be an application for sealed bearings, but I could be wrong. 

 

Thank you.

[bananahamuck]

I think the hitch will not work correctly if load is moved to side like you are planning. 
 

it won’t allow trailer tongue to move in any direction but straight out from back of vehicle .. So even if you have steering wheels on trailer it will not work without completely binding up. 
 

the trailer wheels will have to skid sideways across ground to go around corners 

[frankendat]

It will operate like a tag axle, so  yes only straight (and up). Anyway, what about them bushings?

[frankendat]

The more I look at construction and farm equipment for examples, the more I see that most are a pin in a sleeve, like mine, with grease liberally applied. I was thinking some kind of scintered oil lite type of bushing or perhaps sealed bearings to reduce friction, but there must be a reason it is not common.  I would guess too costly and/or the juice isn't worth the squeeze.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I think a bronze or brass bushing would split or crack.

 

I recently modified my trailer axle pivot pins by deleting the giant shouldered bolt and machined up some .250 wall DOM sleeves for the "pivot" portion then used 5/8" bolts with large diameter washers to hold the bushing in place. And I stuffed it full of grease. It will probably take ten years for those to wear out. Not the same as what you're doing, but the same theory. Steel on steel with enough clearance between the two so it will never rust or fuse together.

[MachineMan]

Sure I'll help you.

 

Your idea of using one long bushing is a help, in a sense.

Alignment is all important!

 

So first, all the holes need to be checked for size, and how square they are to the workpiece.

Once you have checked for hole size and how uniform size wise the holes are, ........

Time to see how well they line up. 

 

A quick check that will tell the story clearly is to assemble the two units and slip a "snug fitting" pin into

the mix to see how well they line up,.... as they are, presently.

 

If the holes are some off the wall size,... see what you have for drills, dowel pins, etc.

Best of course is to use either a drill blank or a reamer blank.

 

Lacking that have something turned on a lathe that fits on the money, some light tapping is ok.

 

These holes need to be a proper size "and" uniform, and in alignment, before you think about the bushing.

 

Those holes are very likely simply "Drilled". Really unlikely they are even so much as "Reamed"

Drills drift, especially after breaking through one wall of square tubing and banging through the other.

When laying the workpiece down on a work bench,.... one hole can be higher than the other, looking from above,...

one hole can be to the right of left of each other.

 

All four holes need to be in alignment.

 

Unless you intend to tailor make a bushing, hole size is very important.

And you have to determine where to have a press fit and where to have a slip fit.

For instance, the hitch can be a press fit, and the mating piece can be a slip fit.

Or all four can be a slip fit.

 

More like a "Slide Fit" "there has to be room for grease.

Many a project has failed because tolerances where so close there wasn't any room for lubrication to do it's job. 

  

 

  

[MachineMan]

I gave too much credit to the maker of those units.

Those holes were, "punched".

Only after a good look see will you know how everything lines up.

 

 

[frankendat]

On 7/10/2024 at 2:17 PM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think a bronze or brass bushing would split or crack.

 

I recently modified my trailer axle pivot pins by deleting the giant shouldered bolt and machined up some .250 wall DOM sleeves for the "pivot" portion then used 5/8" bolts with large diameter washers to hold the bushing in place. And I stuffed it full of grease. It will probably take ten years for those to wear out. Not the same as what you're doing, but the same theory. Steel on steel with enough clearance between the two so it will never rust or fuse together.

That's exactly what I was thinking. But, as painful as it was, I vectored and wasted money. In my searching for pins, I came across this https://www.ebay.com/itm/185561197524 purchasing the aforelinked means the harbor freight clevis that I have been grinding the last couple of evenings is scrap metal, but hydraulic cylinder clevis pins (I don't know why but  hydraulic cylinder pins are solid and smooth, with clips on each end and seemed to be the best for my application) hydraulic cylinder clevis pins are $20. The ebay clevis comes with a pin/clips and has more that 2 inches between the "forks" The trailer hitch is 2 1/2 and hogging off a 1/4 of steel, from the inside of the uprights of the harbor freight clevis, has been a pain. So, no more grinding and comes with pin/clips that I would have to buy anyway--sold. 

It is going to work out, but I am in a bad mood. I don't have money to be wasting and it gets my drawers twisted up. 

[frankendat]

On 7/10/2024 at 3:29 PM, MachineMan said:

I gave too much credit to the maker of those units.

Those holes were, "punched".

Only after a good look see will you know how everything lines up.

 

 

You give too much credit to the builder of this project. I know machine work and machine standards and this ain't. My father (machinist) would be sure to mention that precision in all things is the better road, even in something as beautifully crude as the original Kalashnikov, the precision is in its imprecision