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Parking brake very weak.


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So my parking brake doesn’t seem to hold. I had it on an incline and engaged it as far back and it started to roll backwards. What would be causing a weak handbrake and is there something to look out for? Just had my rear brakes and fronts rebuilt not too long ago

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Properly adjusted, the hand pull should only come out 3 or 4 clicks. If coming all the way out then there is too much slack in the cable.

It goes to about 2 and still rolls back

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On 5/14/2024 at 6:33 AM, datzenmike said:

Properly adjusted, the hand pull should only come out 3 or 4 clicks. If coming all the way out then there is too much slack in the cable.

 

The 720 manual says 6-10 rachet clicks.

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Pull your rear hubs off and check both cables coming into the adjusters,like Mike said,could be seized,my driver side was,but it was causing that side to lock up.I replaced the cable.Nissan still had them then,was 75 bucks.I could pull the little plug off the backing plate,and turn adjuster with a flat head screw driver to release it,but yours is probably seized,cause only two pulls.

 

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Three things turn the brake warning light on and they should not be ignored. Brakes are absolutely the most important thing on any vehicle.

 

1/  there is a pressure differential switch between the front/rear dual circuit hydraulic brakes. A loss of hydraulic pressure in one turns the light on to warn the operator. This will come on when braking, probably go off when not.

 

2/  The emergency brake has a switch to warn the operator the hand brake was left on. I don't know about the 720 but I ran over a branch and it jammed in the parking brake cable tensioning it and caused a red warning light.

 

3/ The brake master cylinder reservoirs have floating switches that warn the operator that one of them is running low on fluid. This will come on and probably stay on till filled up again.

 

 

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How do I check each one? I also had a guy redo the entire rear and front brakes. New brake hoses, rebuilt most of the old worn parts to brand new. I also pulled to see how many clicks and it’s actually 7clicks that I can pull on it

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7 for the 720, I like 3-4 on my 710.  It's whatever.

 

 

 

 

 

1/  Looking at the diagrams the 720 does not have the pressure differential switch.

 

2/ The hand brake is under the dash and fairly accessible. The switch is on there somewhere and should be adjustable. Pull the wire off and if the light goes out that's the problem.

 

3/ Just take the caps off the reservoirs and look. Top up as needed.

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18 hours ago, datzenmike said:

7 for the 720, I like 3-4 on my 710.  It's whatever.

 

 

 

 

 

1/  Looking at the diagrams the 720 does not have the pressure differential switch.

 

2/ The hand brake is under the dash and fairly accessible. The switch is on there somewhere and should be adjustable. Pull the wire off and if the light goes out that's the problem.

 

3/ Just take the caps off the reservoirs and look. Top up as needed.

I also have noticed that by the gas pedal, there is a huge stain of some sort of liquid could the brake master cylinder be leaking under my dash? My levels seem to be good but that mess has been there for awhile

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1 hour ago, Joecar said:

I also have noticed that by the gas pedal, there is a huge stain of some sort of liquid could the brake master cylinder be leaking under my dash? My levels seem to be good but that mess has been there for awhile

The brake master is on the left side of the clutch/break pedals. On the firewall behind the fuse box. Shine a light up their and look to see if the rod/rubber boot are wet.

Edited by IZRL
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2 hours ago, Joecar said:

I also have noticed that by the gas pedal, there is a huge stain of some sort of liquid could the brake master cylinder be leaking under my dash? My levels seem to be good but that mess has been there for awhile

 

My guess is it's transmission oil. The seal on the speedometer pinion is missing of failed and the spinning inner cable has augured the oil up to the speedometer head and dripped out on the floor. If this is the case it's the little hat shaped seal on the cable below.

 

115AcEe.jpg

 

But first the oil has to get past the smaller round seal below that fits on the pinion and keeps the oil in the transmission.

 

Tu0tY8g.jpg

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Your nose is a pretty good diagnostic tool. Gear oil is very distinctive smelling and doesn't dry up. Also fluids "feel" different rubbing them between your fingers. Sounds nuts but try it with some fresh fluid. Also parking over a fresh piece of cardboard helps to trace leaks. 

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I’ll definitely check those out. I was also told by a mechanic that it maybe could be the oil pressure gauge and how it’s not working always on 40p and doesn’t move. something about how it’s measured by how there’s a hose with oil in it. I’m not sure but I’ll check those other things first

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Nope. 720s get their oil pressure from an electric sender. Also if you have a guage you have to get a sender that does guage and idiot light and to make things more confusing the sender uses British tapered pipe thread. Part of the MG heritige.

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22 hours ago, datzenmike said:

7 for the 720, I like 3-4 on my 710.  It's whatever.

 

 

 

 

 

1/  Looking at the diagrams the 720 does not have the pressure differential switch.

 

2/ The hand brake is under the dash and fairly accessible. The switch is on there somewhere and should be adjustable. Pull the wire off and if the light goes out that's the problem.

 

3/ Just take the caps off the reservoirs and look. Top up as needed.

I’m not sure where the wire is connected but I found this wire hanging down. Not sure if it’s associated with. It the connection more towards the top of the parking brake

image.jpg

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It's a 4x4, climb under and with a pair of pliers loosen the speedometer end on the transmission. Don't let the inner flexible cable pull out of the transmission just the metal threaded collar on the left below...

 

image.thumb.jpeg.e7aa5eec0118d23ea3f32b5e167c079a.jpeg

 

If there's oil then the seal is bad. It'll be transmission oil, not motor oil.

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It is connected to your transfer case on 4x4.Mine had  transfer case oil coming thru the speedometer cable too.It got all on my carpet.I have since replaced the carpet.It does not leak any more.All I did was disconnect the cable at speedomter and reinstalled it.Probably was caused by me by not having it installed right long ago.My speedometer dial was cracked when I first bought the truck.When I would get to 35 mph the dial would go down.Then one day,I hit a deer,my dial came off.When I went to it put back on,I noticed the dial was cracked all the way thru where it connects to speedometer,that is why it kept going down.The dial only comes with the speedometer.Cant buy separate.I ended up buying a speedomter from 720 world,,the guy sent me two of them,but neither worked ,it was only 40 bucks,one had a clock on it,it is now on my truck ,so,it was worth it,I have extra tacometers,temperature gauges,and bulbs.Also extra fuel dials,also a Electrical cable,that goes to the speedomter.Didnt come with lens.

Edited by Thomas Perkins
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