Blown HG?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You can install the pump without the spindle and then prime to pump with a loooooong screwdriver cut to fit in a drill. But the pump has to be tight on the cover.

 

Honestly, all the years I built L motors, we never primed the oiling system. Pack the pump with assembly lube and it will draw the oil into it. It's called a self priming pump for a reason.

 

To get the spindle timing right, there are dots on the pump body and on the spindle. Line them up and stab the pump perfectly clocked and the spindle will be correct.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Just pour some oil in the 2 holes till it looks half way w/o leaking out when leaned over the L motor way.

 

asin the vid ther eis 2 dots that line up. Insert it till it come out in the FAMOUS position. if dont try again cause the worm gear cathes it it might go off a tooth.

I rode a small yellow school bus and had a helmutt on ,So If I can do this so can you

 

just do a dry run a could ple times and make photo and show us.

then when confident you got it fill with oil. assemble lube/50wt. some use grease.

 

and if really in dought you could even pump oil to the from cover from the oil filter hole going to the front.  I have never done spinning it it up. I have onley done this 2 times but got oil pressure in like 15sections which at the time seemed like forever. but I also poured oil on the rockers and down the chain. also maybe best to prime the carb or fuel pump to make sure gas is squirting in the carb to make tthis quick as possible.

 

Oh its about 48mins in the vemio vid where i install the oil pump

 

I myself would get a Hivol pump also. tthe Hitachi Japan unit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3MGEHO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Edited June 6 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

 

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I rode a small yellow school bus and had a helmutt on ,So If I can do this so can you

 

 

 

Here's Hainz. Wait! Driver had to stop and go back and get him, he fell out the window

 

 

 

[atkinson40]

This is where I went to school. 

 

K-3 grades in the basement, one teacher for all 15 of us.  Same teacher 4 years.

4-6 grades upstairs, one teacher for all 12 of us.  Same teacher 3 years. 

 

Best education I ever received.  And I have 3 college degrees.

[datzenmike]

I have a degree from the school of hard knocks.

[atkinson40]

Dizzy L20? 

 

 

 

Back in the day, i changed the dizzy to pointless. 

 

I've lined up the shinny marks on the chain.  Every so often the top and bottom ones end up on the correct marks again on the cam gear and crank gear.

 

The crank pulley is on the TDC marker.  Oil pump is set per the famous 11:28 position.   The cam gear notch ends up where it is supposed to be behind the window.    But my dizzy now lines up as shown. 

 

I think this is the position for the L20 Dizzy.    I thought I remembered taking it off in the L16/L18 position?   But last time I put it together, I may have Mcgivered it to get it there?

 

Is this happening because I needed an L20 Dizzy for the pointless conversion?

 

In addition, I think I have the remnants of 2 different windshield wiper pump setups?   The little black one may have at one time gone along with a jug.   It's got a nipple broken off that I think I see in the tube going to the windshield wiper hose.  The white one seems to have its own pump and I may have scavenged it from a later datsun.    Am I thinking right?

 

Edit:  So I looked at the pre-disassemly pictures and see that I am 180 degrees out from when I took it apart.    On a fresh brain tomorrow, I'll start to try to figure out why.  I checked the small side of the drive being to the front of the engine compartment. 

Edited June 9 by atkinson40

[datzenmike]

I think the L16/18 base is different than the L20B

 

 

Have a look... is the rotor under any plug wire on the cap above it???

 

1/ If the answer is yes  then pull that wire off an put the #1 plug wire on it and this now becomes #1 move all the other plug wires clockwise (or counter clockwise, doesn't matter) from there 3, 4, 2. Once running you may not be able to turn the distributor enough to time it, if so go to 2/ below...

 

2/ If rotor is not below a plug wire or you can't turn the distributor too get that, then the oil pump must come off and the 11:28 spindle dropped and moved a tooth L or R and try again.

[atkinson40]

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I think the L16/18 base is different than the L20B

 

 

Have a look... is the rotor under any plug wire on the cap above it???

 

1/ If the answer is yes  then pull that wire off an put the #1 plug wire on it and this now becomes #1 move all the other plug wires clockwise (or counter clockwise, doesn't matter) from there 3, 4, 2. Once running you may not be able to turn the distributor enough to time it, if so go to 2/ below...

 

2/ If rotor is not below a plug wire or you can't turn the distributor too get that, then the oil pump must come off and the 11:28 spindle dropped and moved a tooth L or R and try again.

 

 

It looks BTDC.   I'm not sure where the rotor fires on the distributor cap contact.  At the beginning or the middle?

 

I have some adjustment left on the slot.   I looked at the specs and L18 is 12 Degrees BTDC?  Maybe I'll be OK.

 

It's 180 out from when I took it off.  I dunno WTF.   But the mark on the chain shinny link lines up with dimple on the cam gear every few rotations, the #1 notch on the cam gear lines up with the mark on the cam plate. and the crank pulley lines up  on the TDC marker.  The #1 piston is at TDC and the #1 cam lobes are at 10/2.  I can't see the dimple on the crank gear lining up with the shinny link anymore, but it was before I put on the front cover so I'm going to assume it still does.

 

Edited June 9 by atkinson40

[datzenmike]

Timing chain has ZERO to do with ignition timing.

 

Oil pump/distributor drive spindle has EVERYTHING to do with distributor setting and ignition timing. If 180 out then it was turned 180 and put back in.

 

There are two TDC positions both 180 from each other

 

Set TDC on the crankshaft pulley, compression stroke on #1 piston. Both #1 valves will be closed and cam lobes upward at about 10 and 2 as seen from the front. This is the true TDC. If still 180 out, the rotor will be pointing to #4 wire on cap. Just move the #1 plug wire there and arrange the others 1, 3, 4, 2 in a clockwise direction.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

We talked about this on page 4 and 5. Was the motor at TDC when you took the head off? Was it on TDC when you installed the oil pump and distributor drive spindle?

 

Again, when we say TDC it means TDC at #1 piston with the cam lobes on #1 pointed up in a V.

[atkinson40]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Timing chain has ZERO to do with ignition timing.

 

Oil pump/distributor drive spindle has EVERYTHING to do with distributor setting and ignition timing. If 180 out then it was turned 180 and put back in.

 

There are two TDC positions both 180 from each other

 

Set TDC on the crankshaft pulley, compression stroke on #1 piston. Both #1 valves will be closed and cam lobes upward at about 10 and 2 as seen from the front. This is the true TDC. If still 180 out, the rotor will be pointing to #4 wire on cap. Just move the #1 plug wire there and arrange the others 1, 3, 4, 2 in a clockwise direction.

 

 

 

"Timing chain has ZERO to do with ignition timing."   Got it, but I think chain has to do with crank to cam timing.  So I review it to keep me OK.

 

Little mark on cam gear lines up with notch on cam plate.

 

#1 piston TDC and the pointer at TDC on the crank pulley.( I know my TDC notch is second notch as pulley rotates counter clockwise)

 

Cam Lobes 10/2.

 

Chain should just go on tight on the drivers side and all will be good and timing kept good between the top and bottom ends.

 

Rotor Pointing to #4.  (As shown before)  I could make it point to #1 if I made the fat side of the dizzy drive towards the front of the engine. 

But I'll do as Mike says and just reroute the wires. 

 

Edited June 9 by atkinson40

[atkinson40]

3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

We talked about this on page 4 and 5. Was the motor at TDC when you took the head off? Was it on TDC when you installed the oil pump and distributor drive spindle?

 

Again, when we say TDC it means TDC at #1 piston with the cam lobes on #1 pointed up in a V.

 

Yes to all those questions.  Pictures posted show where it's at.  And where it was when I installed oil pump distributor drive spindle.

 

When I removed the head, all was the same as shown. 

 

Maybe the last time I installed the drive spindle I put the fat side to the front to make the rotor point to #1 plug? I did not check if this was true when I pulled the head.   Given what is going on now, this is the only thing I can think of.

[banzai510(hainz)]

put if back to TDc lined up/ spidal is n 11/28.

Now put the dizzy in with a matching pedastal.  put it in the center of the of the timing swing where you have A adavane an R retard. the rotor should be on a plug wire.

 

Personally I dont know why you have the vaccuum advance towards the head. if this isnt a matchbox I would but it the otherway by taking the pedasral off and rotate on the front cover.

 

as for Mike alwasy mention the 2 TDCs you cant go wrong if you just open the oil cap and rotate the motor and see the INTAKE lobe  close to the 9 oclock position (Left) for morons and tjust look at the crank and dial to Zero. that it You cant get this WRONG then that lobe will about 10oClock. exhaust is 2.

 

But I show this on the vid on the distributor section

[atkinson40]

I may have swapped the dizzy drive to fat side to the front back here to get the rotor to point at #1 spark plug when #1 piston is at TDC.

 

https://ratsun.net/topic/45459-electronic-ignition-conversion/#comment-736148

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

when you have the Motor to TDC

the spindal to 11/28

when you put the dizzy in and drops in the slot that TDC and go 1 3 4 2 Counterclockwise fire order . 

[atkinson40]

What is the orientation of the exhaust gasket?  

 

One side has a larger metal flange on the large inner hole and the other side has a larger metal flange on the two outer holes?  It fits either way.

[atkinson40]

4 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

when you have the Motor to TDC

the spindal to 11/28

when you put the dizzy in and drops in the slot that TDC and go 1 3 4 2 Counterclockwise fire order . 

 

Thanks hainz.   I think I got it.  My rotor ended up at the #4 position on TDC.    It's a mystery why, but Mike has explained it is OK.

 

I'm moving on to adjusting the rocker arm to valve stem clearance and putting the manifolds back on.

[datzenmike]

19 minutes ago, atkinson40 said:

What is the orientation of the exhaust gasket?  

 

One side has a larger metal flange on the large inner hole and the other side has a larger metal flange on the two outer holes?  It fits either way.

 

Maybe a picture?

[atkinson40]

14 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Maybe a picture?

 

Thanks, My description was fail.  One side only has the larger flange on one hole.

 

Edited June 10 by atkinson40

[datzenmike]

Just poorly made is all.

[atkinson40]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Just poorly made is all.

 

Thanks Mike, Then I assume the flanges should wrap all the way around on front and back? 

 

The Felpro one looks the same as the pictures. 

[datzenmike]

The wrap around works just like the fire rings on a head gasket. The corrosively hot exhaust will eat away at the gasket. The metal conducts the heat away into the head and the manifold. It also  helps crush seal.

[atkinson40]

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The wrap around works just like the fire rings on a head gasket. The corrosively hot exhaust will eat away at the gasket. The metal conducts the heat away into the head and the manifold. It also  helps crush seal.

 

Thanks, 

 

I think that means that the wrap around should be on both sides of the gasket. 

Mine only has one side wrap around and even then it is not consistent on which side has the wrap around on all holes. 

New gasket time.  I  will send back to Rock Auto. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I usually just get the Felpro from Vatozone or O rileys or rockauto ect. The Felpro intake gasket  is the 1.5inch size and it will say head side to put on. But they dont last long if loose on the head if bolts nuts loosen up the center big hole will blow out on the bottom. I got some SSS nissan one as spares.  But since Im good at changing them out I used the Felpro

Edited June 11 by banzai510(hainz)

[atkinson40]

 

I just need to check all connections and get distilled water and antifreeze.

On the arm to adjust the (Toe?)  there is a shock absorber.  What is the adjustment on it?  Where is the bracket supposed to be located on the adjuster arm?

 

Edited June 15 by atkinson40