Blown HG?

[datzenmike]

Well not exactly. The piston is at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valve is almost closed and closing and fully closed at 26⁰ after. At the same time the intake valve is opening starting at 12⁰ before TDC. This is called the valve overlap where both are slightly open but in no way close to the piston.

[banzai510(hainz)]

just look at number 1 piston!!!!!!!!!!!!

TDC on crank piston up

Install head with dowl at 12oclock. on block. Do not over think this.  the other cylinders will be at what ever opening on the valves it is.

#1 on head will be 10 and 2 o clock pisition on the cam

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I didn't mean to confuse when I mentioned 360 out, but it is important if you don't want to remove the oil pump to re-clock the distributor spindle.

 

Where's that pic Hainz? Of the spindle clocking position in the front cover?

[datzenmike]

 

If at TDC compression stroke on #1 and the distributor is out you should see this. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

There it is.

[atkinson40]

Head on and torqued.  Chain and tensioner installed.  Shiny links lined up just where they should.  

 

I filed a tiny notch on the back of my cam gear to line up with the mark on the cam plate at TDC. 

Every 360 of the crank ends up with the #1 piston at TDC and my mark lining up. 

At first it was a little disconcerting that the shiny marks did not always line up, but after several revolutions they did again. 

 

I'm going to need the machine shop weld the front plate.   It has a corrosion opening between the 2 water pump chambers.  It may still work, but I think it will lessen the efficiency of the pump.

 

The front plate is now a bitch to get on and off.  Rubber hammer needed to bump it on.  It was not this way before the head/head gasket install.  The last time I did this I think I must have had the front cover on when I installed the head. 

 

Any problem with me having the machine shop shave off 5 thousands from the top of the front cover to make it go on and off easier?   Its hanging up on the gasket.  Everything will still line up OK from the pins on the engine. 

 

Edited May 28 by atkinson40

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would have found a new or another front timing cover.

Maybe you can get by with this.

as installing the front timing cover i dont think shaving it will do it . Its supposed to be tight. but you kinda put the bottom on first at and angle then the top slides on with OUT pinching the gasket in the corner where it become a oil leaker..I know this the fiirst time I did it. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

if it really bother you I guess you can get a block of wood and sand it as that front cover needs to go anyway

 

 

somebody should just send you another front cover

Edited May 28 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Before filing that notch the chain must be tight on the tension left side opposite the tensioner. The Notch should be slightly over to the distributor side but at least you have something there to show any change.

 

There are at a guess, around 100 links total on the chain, so with 20 teeth on the crankshaft sprocket, every turn moves the links 20 spaces clockwise. Looks like every 5 turns would bring the links back to their starting point. This is a very rough estimate.

 

 

 

Have this welded then milled flat. Or JB weld it and file down by hand. This is a perfect example of running tap water and no antifreeze. This is the inlet and outlet from the pump. Some is just going to go round and round. Better take a good look at where the pump sits in the timing cover. The back wall may be eroded and any leak just pisses water onto the timing chain and into the oil pump. Might be a better idea to replace with a used one. L18s are the same.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yeah, if the block was cut, the front cover may need to be cut too, but know that it is supposed to be a tight fit. I always wait until the front cover is bolted tight before I torque the head bolts.

 

If you have been putting the cover on and taking it off since you put the head on, make sure you did not damage the head gasket at the top of the cover. You should probably put a bead of grey or black RTV on the top of the cover at final install.

[banzai510(hainz)]

also I read some where if a head has alot of electrolisyts. a extra ground wire will help from head to body chassis I think.

 

I might have same proplem also when I ever open it up again

Edited May 28 by banzai510(hainz)

[atkinson40]

I had the front cover welded.  Before i put it on I wanted to make sure the tensioner is OK.  

This looks like the tensioner is out farther than other pictures I've seen.  Or the guide is in too far, but the guide is out as far as it will go.

 

If the chain was stretched a bunch, the marks and bright chain links wouldn't be matching up as I turned the engine round and round?

There's no way I've got more than 20K on that chain, tensioner, and guide set.

 

Edited May 28 by atkinson40

[datzenmike]

Rat tail file and oval the hole. Push tensioner all the way in, push slack side guide as far to your right as you can and tighten it down, release tensioner. It is, what it is. Looks fine to me. Maybe head was milled.

[banzai510(hainz)]

can you Squeeze the tensioner in and while doing that loosen the top slack side bolt guide and  push the guide over to the right to tighten the tensioner at the bottom. the chain will tighten it up.

 

I notice this happen to me also. I hade multiple Brands and actually the taiwan tensioner worked fitted better for soem reason. They looked the same but fitted differently

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ideally the tensioner would be all the way in and the curve of the chain would have a nice smooth arc. Like Mike said, file the lower hole in the curved guide. File it a lot and use a washer if you have to.

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

save this photo

Japanes water pump for 510. use 510 pulley and 4blade fan https://www.ebay.com/itm/295894480263?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D265765%2C266070%2C265704%26meid%3D7d3795f014fb46ff8c829cf2adf5c232%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D235563551682%26itm%3D295894480263%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3EmbeddedAuctionsCPCAutoWithCassiniEmbRecallManual%26brand%3DAisin&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A2958944802637d3795f014fb46ff8c829cf2adf5c232|enc%3AAQAJAAABkP9d%2BMZSXlztIfYFu3kI%2B7ft0VcQix7rTrUVdiJwc2upzwLfM%2B2UEqu0ZqdXqu2qWe6up6s9MSEY%2BWikIwEh4xLkizL%2BG%2Fyhg6cdW4xfkbb75erVQBYYISNxGN1au%2BE0eJ778JYYSAyLJRupNiZky3B2UHpMsaEp7JRgW9fuueOszPlG9eCPE4mSzJx4EejjZE0v1xx3s4HgKujjhEB3s6l17rSLI%2BLPNP1qFqqOeqwWfw7YplbzNHvA%2Bz%2BQrjk7oGw5zBYyDH4PbT%2BoGLP188VHtkwOPNzWlsloehr5wDyvmQjAhQVCTb3Q%2FzHWNBpvN1tjMOCsfBvCh2DLwfetvPYIRBtXV4AUWdj1izCbqWkzpY5zxbmipWMEBhzXJhAXAoaOz5MNQNLBM27AWvg3dw8ejSSd2s9ymqI8ajaEGuYmrCCgZmFlW3x%2FfbK8PsnAU1NEpl%2BgSlvvVvVYSXl3FoBMtsqMSmmO7aEUfNHzCNeU816aXYVfEl19wcdx3kGR9sfnv0EymV2S8QuTZJvs4lk%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&epid=74483302&itmmeta=01HZ32BP3360ZCQD5B0AH1BC3H

Edited May 29 by banzai510(hainz)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Yep, just like that.

[atkinson40]

I removed the guide to file and found the back edge had a chunk gone.  

I thought I replaced this when I first did the HG some time ago.

 

I did this.  Hopefully it isn't complete crap. 2 days to get here.

 

https://www.autozone.com/internal-engine/timing-set/p/cloyes-timing-set-9-4134s/1175019_0_0?searchText=timing+chain+kit

[banzai510(hainz)]

thats the same junk kit you have now with the insection holes in wrong spot on sprocket. to see the V notch on back of the gear

this be better L16/18

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182445937718?fits=Make%3ADatsun&itmmeta=01HZ32KXNMH04JWS8B47GSPGTF&hash=item2a7aa01436:g:gaAAAOSwAx1fY4cG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0J9osp3Khg9mPwN4unXGf0JRiKoJW%2FpoPe6pWFQB96LU3RUpfM4JunI%2FttucrkWEPd4b9lS3pEObdMmcJQpctr99x1MOJMrydw6XwVzGVTbfsEO4bH01NeVj1E2P0vJIM%2FiDZY0ffp4ynFfVbtLzQHYBi0vE0Bb%2F7PzB6Z6Bcp2FOlcnMwj3lVrD3nBhh2rUFF6haxwq26tHYCUHihln1P8p6j1b7UalTjGoOaxhbdSoN5SbSvkd9Hk9vA6N5GczLk5OjHFLTs3jt%2Fm4dp%2FHhsI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_Laz-L4Yw

Edited May 29 by banzai510(hainz)

[banzai510(hainz)]

little cheaper  japan set  from zcardepot. seen these cheaper elsewhere

https://www.ebay.com/itm/335055216985?fits=Make%3ADatsun&itmmeta=01HZ32QAHW3Y7YPY6N4KFMD00E&hash=item4e02d8e159:g:9O0AAOSwlwllHClP&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8JucvVtREWi3zoJZMEqPxge%2FKrrBu%2FucWrWiJhUiREy%2FqhDlU%2FlSXFd%2FwlBXMZgBcgWGlqc%2FdyO%2F0WoDTQPZSPbLMoIpLRmLeTPECpe4Lthqs8Gk2MH0NrAeQT7%2FwwqxI2ZRVXUTXRnemc7X5yDEf2sWyN2VHnM%2FYiMC666muhFHJgsL8gNUH2ZNaRk%2F8aO%2BrlsZ8m4uMZIYjOmbEXhcyPl4m1z4tmgSasrWoXJjbVexziCrYTIPXaqlMRb2sAbrZGdfvYwh8KgNoVdOtu0YhYbn5zdDlvSBF0lOk6lmPfZggtxp2qBJkO%2Fr2OGRf6%2F0lA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4ap3eL4Yw

 

japan head gasket

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323974767604?fits=Make%3ADatsun&itmmeta=01HZ32QAHX62JG7YFGBDJC175W&hash=item4b6e66a3f4:g:97kAAOSw7WxdxvEH&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8H%2FOJPnwx%2BZEUq7lTjWPage1L7cy2aSP1WIHQZPWqeIOEruTr0Eb4clL6ul5l808p2C5p2luvoRk34DJHaMfMYxr821TdGSEmFht6A5ezLJwmbDHaPZBlhtCnMZ37ZSHXec3UX5qDFS7xUGo9cigBK5FnUJ3vh0WN6SHqT0R%2FlEHgbvht8Tf8h9OO0C7BeHD%2FJUTRdpNH3WFXhmZypmLsPp79HEAHDbpxSyD1xkG4TrGaQDgR99f9%2FTPLsilLfL2rD5FnYYu%2BR6qgwW54fVHCOvwz2RoPbbwpD0QfJVyerrik44D0JsK--MNwGFOP2wOZg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4ip3eL4Yw

Edited May 29 by banzai510(hainz)

[banzai510(hainz)]

this is listed fro a 240z but should be same as L16/18

https://www.partsgeek.com/7rm1wmc-nissan-240z-timing-gear-kit.html?gb=pp&cid=28884375&aid=4168799403&kid=1100003049307&msclkid=de6a3c834de919715c855ad4d6b8c4cf&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping(BSC)&utm_term=1100003049307&utm_content=Nissan

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ok found this on partsgeek for 72 620  L16/18 should be same

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/nissan/620_pickup/engine_mechanical/timing_gear.html

 

 

these are the best kits if found

this say 810 maxima 240Z but I think they have same deck height so lenght be the same if anybody could verifly this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204616016033?itmmeta=01HZ33W87TNC0WJ8N3MF37RM3M&hash=item2fa410a0a1:g:9NwAAOSwsqNlgiOt&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0AyJWQ76%2BYvc9I3Vx7KgA9il4AphtwH7b56zvIwS9CDxbYehdo%2Bodp%2BxPzSApL5tGM9U3Wtc2LeiPnpsdY2QhDCUVEtX3C9r0J6nvINGBPHPIxQvnoXHaT1YZ7KlP9vgYBnHgE7O%2FEWPsCVkYi%2BWmtsbvM0KaHx%2FQcia26oDdW6MVX9vVoGHklaIwrdGYFgt92fGRumDI5%2BM8OWNUBD%2FU0wdKQ23atC5JyiU%2FZ%2BF8iGbxymIqijdwJNe15dOr8dwzEnTCMv3JKVk%2BWm%2F1oJ2RH8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6D8eP4Yw

Edited May 29 by banzai510(hainz)

[atkinson40]

30 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Ok found this on partsgeek for 72 620  L16/18 should be same

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/nissan/620_pickup/engine_mechanical/timing_gear.html

 

 

these are the best kits if found

this say 810 maxima 240Z but I think they have same deck height so lenght be the same if anybody could verifly this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/204616016033?itmmeta=01HZ33W87TNC0WJ8N3MF37RM3M&hash=item2fa410a0a1:g:9NwAAOSwsqNlgiOt&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0AyJWQ76%2BYvc9I3Vx7KgA9il4AphtwH7b56zvIwS9CDxbYehdo%2Bodp%2BxPzSApL5tGM9U3Wtc2LeiPnpsdY2QhDCUVEtX3C9r0J6nvINGBPHPIxQvnoXHaT1YZ7KlP9vgYBnHgE7O%2FEWPsCVkYi%2BWmtsbvM0KaHx%2FQcia26oDdW6MVX9vVoGHklaIwrdGYFgt92fGRumDI5%2BM8OWNUBD%2FU0wdKQ23atC5JyiU%2FZ%2BF8iGbxymIqijdwJNe15dOr8dwzEnTCMv3JKVk%2BWm%2F1oJ2RH8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6D8eP4Yw

 

Thanks banzai510

 

I already had it special ordered.  I'll have to live with it.  Autozone may have been where I bought it before.  I was able to work around the inspection hole issue by filing my own  notch.  I'll see how unworkable it is. 

[atkinson40]

On 5/29/2024 at 2:04 PM, banzai510(hainz) said:

thats the same junk kit you have now with the insection holes in wrong spot on sprocket. to see the V notch on back of the gear

this be better L16/18

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182445937718?fits=Make%3ADatsun&itmmeta=01HZ32KXNMH04JWS8B47GSPGTF&hash=item2a7aa01436:g:gaAAAOSwAx1fY4cG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0J9osp3Khg9mPwN4unXGf0JRiKoJW%2FpoPe6pWFQB96LU3RUpfM4JunI%2FttucrkWEPd4b9lS3pEObdMmcJQpctr99x1MOJMrydw6XwVzGVTbfsEO4bH01NeVj1E2P0vJIM%2FiDZY0ffp4ynFfVbtLzQHYBi0vE0Bb%2F7PzB6Z6Bcp2FOlcnMwj3lVrD3nBhh2rUFF6haxwq26tHYCUHihln1P8p6j1b7UalTjGoOaxhbdSoN5SbSvkd9Hk9vA6N5GczLk5OjHFLTs3jt%2Fm4dp%2FHhsI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_Laz-L4Yw

 

I lucked out banzai, 

 

The set was not the same as the old one.  It had all the timing marks on the upper and lower sprocket.  Chain Links lined up.

[banzai510(hainz)]

thats great

what I do if I have a chain that dont have the links since I have spares with the brite links I put the unmarked one next to the brite link then mark it with a inkpen. Mirror image it then mark it

[atkinson40]

I'm installing the oil pump. 

 

I'm going to kinda semi install it with a loose long bolt that leaves a gap between the cover and pump.  Just to get the spindle correct.

 

To prime it, there is a gap between the pump and cover that I can use an oil can to fill the pump with oil to prime it.  Then install the pump correctly.

 

I'll then turn the engine over by hand until I get oil coming out where its supposed to.

 

This OK?