Blown HG?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It probably fell down into that hole in the frame near the motor mount.

[atkinson40]

5 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The engine ID is stamped at top of the block behind the dip stick handle.

 

 

L18  it's probably an A87 but any L head will fit.

 

 

 

 

L16 bore is 83mm, L18 and L20B are both 85mm. Now rather than have two or more gaskets, most auto supply will sell the L20B gasket for all L series engines as a 'one size fit's all'.

 

As for the rest of the L16/L18 gasket set they are the same. The L20B timing cover is different. 

 

I can not see a number behind the dipstick.  But I do see the L18 on the crank.  My head is A87.  

 

 

 

 

[atkinson40]

5 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Didnt I mention this????????????

 

I pull the intake off and I leave the exhaust manifold with the Y pipe together and push it off to the side. as I dont like pulling the Y pipe .Bolt bust.

 

you need to put motor close to TDC then bust the cam and crank nut loose then put motor to TDC . Mark the chain link. if your NOT going to take the front cover off.

 

 Not obvious to me water to intake.  Maybe to someone else.

 

[datzenmike]

 

It's there!!! Use wire brush.

 

If head is coming off measure the bore. L16 is 83mm and L18 is 85mm

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Anybody else see what I see?

 

Here's a clue, the L18 may be stamped on the other side of this block. There's one dead giveaway that this is an oddball motor. And I'm curious if anyone else will spot it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

intake 1 and 2 could be questionable? on the lower part

use antiseize compound on all the intake/exhaust and thermo stat bolts.

Edited May 16 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

36 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Anybody else see what I see?

 

Here's a clue, the L18 may be stamped on the other side of this block. There's one dead giveaway that this is an oddball motor. And I'm curious if anyone else will spot it.

 

 

That threaded plug on the left isn't the drain, it would be lower down below the core plugs. Z series engines had no heater outlets on their heads so it was out of the right side of the block. About where that plug is. Now 2 liter engines and larger have larger crankshaft main bearings so an L18 crankshaft does not fit them, but overseas there were Z18s and the ID was on the other side. It would be behind the pair of exhausts on the manifold below and say Z18...

 

[atkinson40]

55 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

That threaded plug on the left isn't the drain, it would be lower down below the core plugs. Z series engines had no heater outlets on their heads so it was out of the right side of the block. About where that plug is. Now 2 liter engines and larger have larger crankshaft main bearings so an L18 crankshaft does not fit them, but overseas there were Z18s and the ID was on the other side. It would be behind the pair of exhausts on the manifold below and say Z18...

 

 Found it there. 

[atkinson40]

I'm not seeing the line up marks either on the camshaft gear or the plate behind it to verify TDC?  I can set the pointer to TDC on the bottom pully, and the #1 lobes are at 10/2, but I do not see any marks to verify cam position ?

[datzenmike]

There are 42 links between marks and probably close to 100 links probable. Turn it enough times it will line up. Don't go by this. Get compression stroke on #1, both #1 valves closed, then search around on the rearmost part of the crankshaft pulley for a TDC timing mark. Line it up with the 0 on the ignition timing pointer. 

 

Well, not a Z18 then. Must have been an import engine from Japan then. They were used in Oz into the '80s in the 720. I think.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I thought it might be there.

 

There's one other thing that I saw that gave it away. Come on Datsun guys. What did I see?

 

L18s were produced all the way up to 1983 or thereabouts, and here in CA, we used to buy them from places like Jetco. Who knows where they procured them. I always assumed they were Japanese takeouts.

16 hours ago, atkinson40 said:

 Found it there. 

 

[atkinson40]

I lined up the pointer with what I think is the TDC marker on the pulley, but is the extreme left notch on the pulley or the second from the left TDC.

 

The second from the left notch s deeper, but that may be where you are supposed to line it up for timing at some BTDC value.

 

In addition, I have no 'V" mark on the back of the cam gear.  I have it off and nothing.  But there is a pin on the end of the cam that lines up with the mark on the plate.  This is the pin that guides the cam gear on.  I'll need to figure out for sure how to match the engine TDC with the cam TDC.  I do not trust the pointer.

 

BTW.   When I pulled the front cover off the missing valve cover bolt fell out.  Glade I didn't forgo pulling it off.

[banzai510(hainz)]

photos would help

 

 

Edited May 17 by banzai510(hainz)

[datzenmike]

Turning the crank clockwise the last notch to pass the pointer will be TDC.

 

Put something in the spark plug hole that can't fall in and watch the piston move it up and down. Stop at the highest point

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You guys suck.

 

The crank isn't fully counterweighted. All North American market L18s came with fully counterweighted cranks.

[datzenmike]

 

On 5/16/2024 at 12:02 PM, atkinson40 said:

 

 

 

I looked at it but couldn't say if the L18 did or didn't

 

Below is a fully counter weighted L20B with  Z22 below it.

 

Now I see it clearly.

 

 

[atkinson40]

 

I think I found where coolant could escape.   it was showing on the outside of the engine on a previous picture i posted.   I wonder if it can be sucking in air at the same spot?

 

We have a good machine shop here in San Diego.   is it possible to weld aluminum?  In helping with a plan forward, know I only use this truck 6-10 times a year for Home Depot trips.  Maybe 500 miles most a year.

 

 

Edited May 18 by atkinson40

[banzai510(hainz)]

escape?

You said you didnt set a real outside leak and lost like half of your coolant

 

hard to see the photos of where you think ithis was bad

[datzenmike]

Yes aluminum can be welded. Usually TIG welding. What needs welding?

 

It's blown on the #4 cylinder around 5 o'clock just below the spark plug. This is why the combustion chamber looks so clean.

 

[atkinson40]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Yes aluminum can be welded. Usually TIG welding. What needs welding?

 

It's blown on the #4 cylinder around 5 o'clock just below the spark plug. This is why the combustion chamber looks so clean.

 

 

 

[atkinson40]

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

escape?

You said you didnt set a real outside leak and lost like half of your coolant

 

hard to see the photos of where you think ithis was bad

 

From page 2 of this post.  Leak on reply to DM's post.

 

[datzenmike]

 

That will need to be TIG welded to save it. Rarely see corrosion that bad. Really needs good antifreeze to protect it and distilled water.

[atkinson40]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

That will need to be TIG welded to save it. Rarely see corrosion that bad. Really needs good antifreeze to protect it and distilled water.

 

I saw what looked to be corrosion on the outside of the head/block mating  surface in this area, as shown in my previous reply to Hainz, but no water coolant coming out.  Certainly not enough to account for the amount of water I was loosing.  That coolant must have been going in cylinder number 4. 

 

Where could the cooling system pressure have been coming from?  The blown #4 HG?

[datzenmike]

#4 fire ring looks corroded but hard to say from picture. It's definitely cleaner. If you clean the eroded place on #3 you coulld JB weld it. It would easily contain coolant pressure.

[atkinson40]

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

#4 fire ring looks corroded but hard to say from picture. It's definitely cleaner. If you clean the eroded place on #3 you coulld JB weld it. It would easily contain coolant pressure.

 

Better picture.  Yes fire ring looks corroded on #4.   2 spots.  Not sure if there is a fix for the fire ring, but if I need a weld in those to spots on the aluminum to try to support the fire ring, may as well get them to fix #3 too.

 

 

Edited May 19 by atkinson40