Another one for electricians

[frankendat]

Hello, I am sorta stuck, only sorta because I can think of ways to fix, but they all involve going custom and, as always, if I employ custom solutions I reap custom problems. 

 

The light in my drill press broke, a metal shard took it out, when removing the bulb the metal base, which holds the metal base of the bulb, twisted/tore out. It is difficult, but not impossible to reach, but access to the plastic base that held the metal base that held the bulb will require custom work and if going custom....

 

Pictures worth 1000--

 

The plastic socket and the metal base are pictured in the same orientation. I think the metal base attached to the plastic socket via the top hole (about 10 o'clock on the plastic socket picture

 

I am looking for theories/observations on the operation of this light. It appears the center of the bottom of the light bulb would fit into missing horseshoe of the base and touch the metal fitting in the center? The part ripped from the top of the horseshoe would have been attached to the metal base. Would the first or second be ground? Or neither? Suggestions on fixing this? Remember access to that plastic part is very limited...Is it time to go custom? Thank you

 

[IZRL]

Not advice on what you should do, just a thought. But I bought one of those big vintage drafting fluorescent tube lights that clamp on to a desk a while back. Probably from 60s or 70s? Anyhow, one of the light tubes wouldn't fully light up and would just flicker. I figured it would be a simple fix (had no idea how a fluorescent light system worked). Maybe a loose wire or faulty switch. Nope, I don't remember what it needed but the fluorescent lights have a whole lot more going on than I wanted to deal with. So I ripped most of it out and converted it into a LED light. I know this isn't a fluorescent light but because the parts are probably not readily available. Sometimes its less of a headache and more convenient for future maintenance to just start fresh.

 

What year is that press? That wiring looks way more complicated than I would imagine a newer press would have for a light. Of course I know next to nothing about electrical components or lighting. Is that 70s or 80s?

Edited March 6 by IZRL

[frankendat]

8 hours ago, IZRL said:

Not advice on what you should do, just a thought. But I bought one of those big vintage drafting fluorescent tube lights that clamp on to a desk a while back. Probably from 60s or 70s? Anyhow, one of the light tubes wouldn't fully light up and would just flicker. I figured it would be a simple fix (had no idea how a fluorescent light system worked). Maybe a loose wire or faulty switch. Nope, I don't remember what it needed but the fluorescent lights have a whole lot more going on than I wanted to deal with. So I ripped most of it out and converted it into a LED light. I know this isn't a fluorescent light but because the parts are probably not readily available. Sometimes its less of a headache and more convenient for future maintenance to just start fresh.

 

What year is that press? That wiring looks way more complicated than I would imagine a newer press would have for a light. Of course I know next to nothing about electrical components or lighting. Is that 70s or 80s?

We are of like mind. Drill press is early 80's, what I know about electrical components and lighting has been forced on me over the years, by having to fix electrical components and wiring. The problem with the drill press is access to the components. The "rip it out and covert it" suggestion is what I call "custom". It likely the answer, but it will take time and I have stuff to drill, I was looking for alternatives - maybe just dragging my feet. Custom will require disassembly of much of the press and that means reassembly of much of the press, which eats days and finds a way to be a pain in the ass. What prompted my post was it isn't apparent to me where power feeds into the bulb, not being able to get in there and look at the wires (without disassembly). I would like to repair what I called the "horseshoe" (add a little piece of copper to complete the connection), because I think it is the ground and rock on, but that is a great way to dead short and fry stuff (my garage was built in 1910, updated for the last time in '56). 

 

As a final disassembly avoidance procedure, I might take a hole saw to the side of the press, make the hole the same size as a mason jar so I can cover it with a rubber "jam saver" lid and see what information that reveals. 

[datzenmike]

https://thelightingoutlet.com.au/products/scope-clamp-lamp-adjustable-goose-neck-antique-brass-brushed-chrome-white-black

 

 

Something like this. Get the largest LED light that will fit. Attache it on or near the press. Can be adjusted for best illumination of drilling operation and swung out of the way if needed.

 

I have something like this..

 

 

At my computer but instead of the 20 watt bulb I use 100watt equivalent LED. It's on all the time I'm active but pointed away. (cat sleeps under it) When I need to read or trace a wiring circuit or work on something small I swing it into position.

 

[frankendat]

41 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

https://thelightingoutlet.com.au/products/scope-clamp-lamp-adjustable-goose-neck-antique-brass-brushed-chrome-white-black

 

 

Something like this. Get the largest LED light that will fit. Attache it on or near the press. Can be adjusted for best illumination of drilling operation and swung out of the way if needed.

 

I have something like this..

 

 

At my computer but instead of the 20 watt bulb I use 100watt equivalent LED. It's on all the time I'm active but pointed away. (cat sleeps under it) When I need to read or trace a wiring circuit or work on something small I swing it into position.

 

Thanks Mike, I have a couple (broken) lights like the second one shown. I found them at the salvage yard and threw them in my "This mechanical device might be repurposable someday pile" . Decisions, decisions....

[iceman510]

The threaded base should be ground with the center terminal powered if wired properly.  Not sure I fully understand the limited access restriction extent, but could you re-rivet that base into the plastic portion?  Maybe no room for a rivet gun handle.  

 

Can that black plastic part be removed to facilitate repairs?