Llittle_Llama Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Ok, farmer sent me a manifold and all i have to do is get a collector and I'm golden! so here is what I'm thinking. 1. Grind all the casting marks off 2. Grind all of the mounting tabs for whatever off 3. Grind down any imperfections and sand it 4. High temp paint it 5 Drive around town picking up girls 6. Pray the test comes back negative (child support is a BITCH!) so what i need to know is, can i grind these flush or is there an issue with that? EXTRA POINTS, I POINTED AT 3 THINGS IN ONE PIC!!!!! Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Nice bench the manifold is sitting on. The three bosses you are pointing all at once in the third picture are for mounting a sheet metal piece that heats the air before it goes into the carb. Early L-16 engines had a manual flap valve you set, later ones controlled the flap valve with a vacuum motor. The heated carb air is needed in some temperature, and humidity conditions to prevent your card from icing up. Living in Texas, Carb heat probably is not needed unless it is required for meeting pollution laws. In Oregon, I have had Datsun carburetors ice up sometimes. Usually going up to the mountains to go snow skiing. Go ahead, and grind them off. Pay attention to wall thickness where you are grinding. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 OR: You could leave it the fuck alone and just run it. No... wait. I guess not an option. Fuck! It's snowing again. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 You'll have to try to see what the interior looks like. If it dimples where the parts are you want to grind, it will get to thin. If the inside is smooth, with no indication of where the bumps are....you can grind them flush with the rest of the surface. You just don't want to grind through...welding cast iron is a royal pain and is pretty much guaranteed to crack. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 OR: You could leave it the fuck alone and just run it. No... wait. I guess not an option. Fuck! It's snowing again. is an option, and i think i might just do that. imma still wire wheel the HELL out of it though :D what would be the best thing to soak this in to clean though? i was thinking 50/50 water purple power in a tub for a few days. i want to get it as clean inside and out before i paint is. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 look up the rust removal thread we had going. You can take the rust off with molasses. I haven't thought about it in a while...I think it's a 9:1 ratio.....9 water to 1 molasses. You can use grocery store molasses or get it from a feed store. It will take a couple of weeks of soaking....part of that time is needed to get the brew to ferment. Works great. Quote Link to comment
Llittle_Llama Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 look up the rust removal thread we had going. You can take the rust off with molasses. I haven't thought about it in a while...I think it's a 9:1 ratio.....9 water to 1 molasses. You can use grocery store molasses or get it from a feed store. It will take a couple of weeks of soaking....part of that time is needed to get the brew to ferment. Works great. i remember that thread, and thought of doing that, but i am thinking more about the inside where the carbon is. wont the oils and things in the metal make the paint not last as long or flake off? these are just things i am thinking, there is no real basis for my thoughts. other thing is i need it done within the next 2-3 weeks so i can get my exhaust re-done. Quote Link to comment
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