85 Nissan 720 4x4 starting problem.

[Thomas Perkins]

Happy Friday.I have a problem with my truck starting.Sometimes it will.Sometimes I have to turn the key a bunch of times.Sometimes I have to roll down the hill and pop the clutch.I took the starter off ,took to parts store.It checked out good.I removed positive and negative cable and cleaned.Removed the thin wire going to starter.I put new fitting on it and cleaned male fitting it connects too.Battery and alternator are good.Battery cables are clean as new.So,I think it may be the ignition switch.All my electrical stuff is working great.It has 5 prongs.Can I take it off and clean it or do I need to replace it.Can anyone tell me how to remove it and what direction do I need to go.It does not click.When it starts it fires right up.To me,It seems that it is not getting a connection when key is turned.Are the connections dirty?

Edited December 29, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[jagman]

I had the same problem with my 720 not starting at times.  It got to every other time and multiple key clicks. The starter tested at Advance Auto as good.  I took it to my starter rebuilder and they rebuilt it.  Works great now.  Take it to a rebuilder while it's out it may be bushing  wear.  That's what was wrong with mine.

[Thomas Perkins]

9 minutes ago, jagman said:

I had the same problem with my 720 not starting at times.  It got to every other time and multiple key clicks. The starter tested at Advance Auto as good.  I took it to my starter rebuilder and they rebuilt it.  Works great now.  Take it to a rebuilder while it's out it may be bushing  wear.  That's what was wrong with mine.

Mine never clicks.When ever my starters went bad,they would strain while trying to start.It"s like the switch is not getting a connection when turned.I could be wrong.They tested it 6 times while I watched.

Edited December 29, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[Thomas Perkins]

I just looked in my Nissan FSM.I did awhile back try to remove the ignition switch.The chime does not go out when key is removed.Sometimes I can wiggle key and chime goes out.I could not get that screw off to remove the ignition switch back then and I gave up.I see that the green fusible link wire coming from positive side battery connected to the black wire with white stripe going to the ignition switch on the side where 2 male prongs are.The black wire with the red strip coming from the starter goes to the ignition switch on the 3 prong side across the other wire and another wire that is white with a yellow stripe comes from the middle prong of the three prongs goes to the 2nd fuse in the fuse box with a 15 Amp fuse.I will replace that fuse.So my first thing to do is remove steering cover and remove the electrical connector to the switch unless I have to get little screw out first.Has anyone ever removed the ignition switch before and what tips I made need.These switches are about 45 bucks.I will also check my green fusible link wire and make sure is not bad.I do have a brand new Nissan fusible link.

Edited December 30, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[datzenmike]

The ignition switch is two parts. There's the lock and key assembly and behind it is the electrical switch with the wres... held in place with a small philips screw. In addition, on the front of the lock cylinder there is a small contact switch connected to the driver's door switch for the interior light. If you try to get out and open the door the chime is activated. Removing the key disconnects the switch.

 

The second fuse powers the auto choke relay and idle cut solenoid.

 

The single Green fusible link only powers the headlights. The other Green paired with the Black link becomes the White/Black power wire to the ignition switch. Beware that when old the white wires can look kind of yellow.

[DwayneOxford]

Had same prob on Subaru. The ignition contacts in the switch were losing connection in the start position.

[Thomas Perkins]

What I did today was?I took the battery out to get more room to get to the fusible links to inspect all 5 wires.They all looked good.2 red ones,2 green ones and one thick black one.I swapped out both wires that go to the green wires  one was for the starter switch.Then I took 2 inches off the negative cable.It was too long.I also pulled all fittings out of fusible links to see what the male blades looked like.All looked good.I put battery back in tray.Screwed the battery tie downs.Tighten the terminals.Then took the fuse box cover off and removed number 2 fuse.I use a 30 Amp fuse there.Was in there when I bought truck 29  years ago.I tried the 15 Amp fuse and it would not stay running.Had Jack check it out and he said leave the 30 Amp fuse in it.That guy that sold the truck to me had a alarm in it and wiring to pull a trailor.The back sliding windows had alarms on them..The dash has a green and red light letting you know if the alarm is on.I removed it all.I don't pull a trailor.I took the fuse box cover out and the fuse may have been loose.I got a long piece of electrical tape and taped it from one end of fuse box over all the fuses to keep them tight and so they can't come lose.Then put the fuse block cover on.I put my positive battery terminal on and tighten down.It started up.Then  Itried it about 6 more times and it started everytime.If it didn't ,I was going to call Auto Zone and order one ,would get it the next day.So I am going to get up at 8 am and see if it starts.I will try many times.If no crank,then I will call and order apart.It will be there after lunch.life time warranty part.May order it any way,just 44 bucks.And that dielectric grease..

 

Edited December 31, 2023 by Thomas Perkins

[Thomas Perkins]

Happy Sunday All.My 720 is fixed.It was the number 2 fuse being loose.I had to bend both fuse prongs in opposite directions to get a tight fit.Then I put a piece of electrical tape across all fuses real tight and over lapped it on both sides then put the cover back on.It starts up eveytime now.I Knew it was not getting a good connection somewhere.

Edited December 31, 2023 by Thomas Perkins