Another carb question. weber 45s

[LOOGLE]

Ha @banzai510(hainz) just looking into that obviously! 

 

Yeah I have spark all the way to the distributor. Carbs were completely gone through, cleaned checked etc.. 

 

Forgive me. I'm new to carbys and such but I've learned more in 1 month of owning this car than I have in 20+ years of working on cars/ boats!

[banzai510(hainz)]

race gurus dont even use the vacuum adv and HAVE the dist in to get curved by a race shop ,change springs weights or even I seen JB Weld the slots so the weights dont move

 

I just drop distributors in and seem to work. Various types what I have around. maybe not opitmum but most L motor are not HUGE 50% power gains even with sidedrafts as most people think.

 

start up and put on timing light. what do you have.???????

 

 

[datzenmike]

1 hour ago, LOOGLE said:

Keep running into a wall here. 

 

I know ripping out the MSD and going matchbox pertronix, HEI, etc.. is the way to go AND in time I'll be doing that BUT for now I'm just trying to find a points distributor with no vacuum advance - I have weber dcoe's without a vacuum line. Some MG people have successfully tapped into manifold for vacuum line but there are mixed reviews on whether that works or not. 

 

MSD/Mallory doesnt make a distributor for an L20 whether they're garbage or I want to pay half a g or not. 

 

 

All Nissan distributors have a vacuum advance. Just run without connecting it is the same as removing it. Keep it simple.

 

 

9 minutes ago, LOOGLE said:

and another stupid question... 

 

after looking through this thread could I run a matchbox (with msd's ) without hooking up the vacuum advance for now until I can tap into the manifold?  Would have the same sh!tty idle, mpg, etc. until mechanical takes over @ around 3k 

 

 

If you have a matchbox you don't need the MSD at all. Either tear it out or just replace the points you have now and keep MSD. 

 

Vacuum advance is load dependent, the more load the less advance. It has ZERO to do with performance and has everything to do with saving a little fuel at cruise and part throttle use.

 

Mechanical advance begins anywhere above idle to maybe 1,200 and is 'all in' by 2,000-3,000. It advances the spark timing to allow for the higher RPM and shorter time to burn the fuel.

[LOOGLE]

Well, I was finally able to source a cap and rotor for the mallory. so we'll see if that gets her to turn over for now. Then it's just keeping my eyes open for a matchbox or the like. 

 

Not looking for HP at all. Pulls plenty hard. Just want to get it back running > work in some "reliability" as time goes on. 

Idled like garbage and was strong from ~ 2k up with the mallory. vacuum advance or not it should run the same or better with a matchbox dizzy with some added reliability. 

 

If anyone uses the search feature on here and is looking for Mallory replacement part numbers they're here >> http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/maa-unilitedistributorwiringdiagramtestproced.pdf

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

1 hour ago, LOOGLE said:

Idled like garbage and was strong from ~ 2k up with the mallory

If strong from 2 k up then how can it be the distributor?????? faster you go the better it gets?

 

fire your mecahnic

[LOOGLE]

WAS  running strong from 2k up. Not running at all now. 👎 

[LOOGLE]

Well, got it back today. Turns out it the rotor was cracked. Not sure how it happened but it's running! theres plenty of mallory rotors out there but no caps... guess those wore out faster. 

 

I'll be keeping my eye out for a matchbox to avoid this in the future. seems like there's none of those out there either. 

 

A big thanks to everyone that chimed in!