Are there any Electricians in the house?

[frankendat]

I purchased a "new to me" commercial convection oven. The oven has a four prong plug (first uploaded picture). The four prong plug was wired into an Eaton four pole relay C25ENF440A (second picture side of relay, third picture of top of relay) The wires from the four prong plug (fourth picture) connected to points in the third picture, but it was disconnected before I acquired.

 

Specs on relay are available here: https://www.elliottelectric.com

 

The plot thickens in my next post...

[frankendat]

According to the internet, the four prong plug on the oven is a 50A 220/125V. It was confirmed by the seller that the oven runs off a 220 line.

 

The outlet on my house looks like the first picture. I know my outlet is 50A 220/125. Second picture-The outlet is connected to the unlabeled 50A breaker on the left side, above the breaker labeled "Dryer". It supports my 50A welder.

 

I have a 50A three prong cord that matches my outlet, but have no idea where to wire it in. Third picture is another shot of the oven electrics.

 

Thank you

[Logical1]

it uses two hot legs off individual breakers (black/red) and the white is plain old neutral and the green is ground. its a way to run more power to a unit and use smaller breakers.

[Logical1]

That relay setup looks scary IMO.

[frankendat]

There are three wires coming off my three prong plug. Any idea how to determine which goes where?

[frankendat]

1 hour ago, Logical1 said:

it uses two hot legs off individual breakers (black/red) and the white is plain old neutral and the green is ground. its a way to run more power to a unit and use smaller breakers.

I have black, no red and white. There is green tape on my three prong cord, but I don't think any green around the relay.

[thisismatt]

Surely you have a multimeter to easily check your cord & receptacle?  I can't tell from the pics, but it doesn't really look like you're supposed to be wiring the power directly to the contactor.  Is there not another terminal strip to connect the mains?

[frankendat]

1 hour ago, Logical1 said:

That relay setup looks scary IMO.

There is a big single speed electric blower motor on this oven, it's new, it's 220v. I would like to power up the motor to understand the force and direction of air flow. I have another convection oven and a conventional oven that I will combine into a larger oven (or at least that is the plan) If I can get the air flow worked out, then I will be motivated to purchase new oven controls. 

[thisismatt]

If it was connected directly to the contactor, then post some better pictures of the top and bottom

[frankendat]

2 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Surely you have a multimeter to easily check your cord & receptacle?  I can't tell from the pics, but it doesn't really look like you're supposed to be wiring the power directly to the contactor.  Is there not another terminal strip to connect the mains?

yep, have multi, so PRETEND that I am slow. Your saying check each slot on my 3 slot receptacle and see which one is power, which is ground. I see a method to that madness, then use Logical1 Logic and black for power, white for neutral, green for ground. Powering the motor and then purchasing a PID is looking like the better option

[frankendat]

 

26 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

If it was connected directly to the contactor, then post some better pictures of the top and bottom

In lieu of a photo, would a manufacturers description suffice?

 

 

Features

Definite Purpose Starters are electrically operated switching devices specifically designed for the heating, ventilation, air conditioning and refrigeration (HVAC) industry. They are controlled by automatic thermostat control or manual pushbutton interfaces.

Product Type

Definite Purpose Control - Contactor

Long Description

Definite Purpose Control - Contactor, 4 Poles, 40 A, 110 to 120 V ac, 50 A Resistive Load, 3 Phases, 20 hp15 kW Motor Power, 25 to 40 A Frame, Quick Connect Terminal Connection, -13 °F Operating Temperature, +158 °F Operating Temperature, DIN Rail Mount, 50 to 60 Hz, 3.75 in Overall Height, 3.38 in Overall Length, 2.68 in Overall Width, 2.2 lb

Special Features

Quick coil changing ability allows for easy maintenance;Shrouded or fingerproof terminals reduce possibility of electrical shock

extra long description

ETN C25ENF440A DP CONT 40A 4P OPN 1

[frankendat]

35 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Surely you have a multimeter to easily check your cord & receptacle?  I can't tell from the pics, but it doesn't really look like you're supposed to be wiring the power directly to the contactor.  Is there not another terminal strip to connect the mains?

I am going off where the fellow pointed, when I asked where the cord wired in, in the daylight I look for a terminal strip. I have three 220v ovens, I should have a power switch I can use to test the blower motor.

[Logical1]

ok so if you are trying to wire it to your 3 prong plug, the red goes to one prong, the black to another and the third to the neutral. then you can run an independent ground if you want. use your multimeter to test the leads on your 3 prong plug but the two diag plug should be the hots and the vertical prong is the neutral. 

[frankendat]

On 8/23/2023 at 10:12 PM, Logical1 said:

ok so if you are trying to wire it to your 3 prong plug, the red goes to one prong, the black to another and the third to the neutral. then you can run an independent ground if you want. use your multimeter to test the leads on your 3 prong plug but the two diag plug should be the hots and the vertical prong is the neutral. 

Thank you for the guidance, project was interrupted by life, which is always the case, worked on it a bit today in the hot, the damn hot, the dumb to be outside hot. No wiring, only cleaning/prepping (the biggest part when re-purposing).I will update as progress merits.

[frankendat]

Confident on the plug rewiring. Picked up a spot welder, most spot welders I have seen are little Chinese or Harbor Freight bullshits that don't inspire confidence. Met a guy with an old heavy 220v, can spot weld little dots or nickle size spots. Simple beefy, much cheaper to skin the oven and booth. Cheaper than bolts, mig or stick welding, maybe even rivets (but, I didn't price that one out.) Now nothing to it but to do it