Turning over L16 by hand

[ratatat dat]

Hi, I was told by a good friend to check my valve (or rocker?) clearance (not sure the correct term) by rotating the engine by hand, which I didn’t even know you could do. I also wonder if rotating by hand would be good practice before starting the engine after sitting a while, to reduce the harshness and possibility of a dry start. (True/false?? Are dry-starts even a thing?)

 

I bought the 27mm socket and went to rotate it with a torque wrench. Turns out the fan is in the way. The pictures show that the fan cannot pass where the socket attaches to the crankshaft. (Well, it can, I bent the plastic blades without knowing it a couple times.)

 

Is there an easy answer to allow me to turn it over by hand?

 

 

Also while I was under there I was inspecting some bushings, and I don’t know a damn thing about suspension but is this really worrisome? I’ve been driving with them like this for years, although I don’t drive that hard nor that often. How can I learn about replacing them?

 

 

Thank you very much!!!

[Crashtd420]

On rotating the engine you could also bump it over with the starter...

Use a wire with a push button switch under the hood so you can watch the cam lobes, connect battery power to one side and then to the spade on the starter... 

 

Another way which I'd rather someone verify is to use the cam sprocket bolt ....

 

As far as dry start up how long has the engine sat?

If not long dont worry.... disconnect coil and crank to build oil pressure .... you could always pour a little oil over the cam, that's probably the driest spot.... the crank and rods should have enough residual oil to crank....

[Crashtd420]

Those bushings are pretty much bolt in.... 

Unscrew and replace in opposite order....

 

The sway bar end link is just like a bolt ... just pay attention to how things are oriented... 

 

The second one is the radius rod, 

Unscrew the end and then unbolt from control arm.... 

 

I'm not sure if there are torque specs or if it can only tighten it so far....

 

[datzenmike]

Loosen the alternator belt tension adjustment so the belt is slipping and the fan won't be a problem when turning the crankshaft bolt.

 

As the engine is not running set valves to cold specs.. intake 0.008" and exhaust 0.010". Once running you can check when hot to confirm that the clearance has expanded to 0.010" intake and 0.012" exhaust.

 

Set to TDC (top dead center) using the notch on the crankshaft pulley. The first two valve springs should be closed with both cam lobes upwards at 2 and 10 o'clock as viewed from the front. Adjust as follows...

 

Set both closed valves on the first cylinder.

Set the intake valve on the second cylinder

Set the exhaust valve on cylinder three

 

Turn the engine clockwise ONE full turn and line up the timing mark again.

 

Set the exhaust valve on the second cylinder

Set the intake on the third cylinder

Set both valves on the forth cylinder that are now closed.

 

This method avoids constant bumping the engine and confusion. All valves can be adjusted with only one turn of the engine.

 

 

I've pulled engines apart and taken rod and main caps off and they are covered in oil so no worries. The engine is hardly under much load when cranking and almost none when idling. Oil pressure rises as fast as the engine starts. I wouldn't change the oil till it's been started.

[KELMO]

Also, might want to ditch the socket for a wrench. The socket in the pic looks a little wonky.

[datzenmike]

You can use the cam sprocket bolt but.... I have done this and it actually tightened it slightly.... which means this exceeds the maximum 116 ft lbs recommended.  If that bolt should snap off...

 

Use the larger 27mm crankshaft bolt.

[Crashtd420]

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

You can use the cam sprocket bolt but.... I have done this and it actually tightened it slightly.... which means this exceeds the maximum 116 ft lbs recommended.  If that bolt should snap off...

 

Use the larger 27mm crankshaft bolt.

Makes sense wasn't sure....

[ratatat dat]

Thank you for the replies!!!

 

I'm sorry, I will bombard you with more questions, if you don't mind. I am still a learner...

 

Crashtd I didn't know it was that easy to bump the starter from the battery. Which terminal do I connect to? Is this what "hot wiring" is?

 

But I think I will try Mike's suggestion so that I can put my new socket to use. I will try to do this tomorrow. Thank you so much for the complete guide!!! I think I understand if fully even!

 

 

 

Thanks for clearing up my concerns regarding dry starts. But I've noticed on multiple cars that sometimes the first turnover feels like a jolt, and other times it feels smoother. Does it have to do with the crank's position before starting? Is there an optimum position?

 

 

 

 

KELMO the socket is not actually fitted to the bolt in the pic, I just set it there... it is an impact socket technically, not sure what the difference is.

[Crashtd420]

5 hours ago, ratatat dat said:

Thank you for the replies!!!

 

I'm sorry, I will bombard you with more questions, if you don't mind. I am still a learner...

 

Crashtd I didn't know it was that easy to bump the starter from the battery. Which terminal do I connect to? Is this what "hot wiring" is?

 

It not really hot wiring but that's part of what's needed... 

You still need fuel and spark to start the vehicle, Which is easy with a mechanical fuel pump and a little wire... 

If I was trying to hot wire a car I'd run a hot power wire from the coil to the battery and use a screw driver across the large starter terminals.

(Fyi, I use to install remote starts and alarms, I'd never steal a vehicle but I know how) most would try from the ignition switch...

 

What I'm talking about just activates the starter nothing else.. they actually sell them, just called a remote start switch.... 

 

 

You connect to the positive battery terminal and then unplug the small spade terminal on the starter and connect to that.... dont connect to the larger battery lugs on the starter

.. the spade triggers the solenoid that connects those and engages the starter...

 

[datzenmike]

7 hours ago, ratatat dat said:

Thanks for clearing up my concerns regarding dry starts. But I've noticed on multiple cars that sometimes the first turnover feels like a jolt, and other times it feels smoother. Does it have to do with the crank's position before starting? Is there an optimum position?

 

 

The engine just stops randomly but for sure about half way between TDC and BDC somewhere between compression strokes. If starting effort is variable you can eliminate at least some of the possible causes by cleaning both the battery posts and the cable clamps. If the clamps are questionable replace, but get good ones. Likewise clean the other ends, the negative cable on the head behind the fuel pump and the positive lug on the starter.