Adding a Fuel Regulator with a 32/36

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

15 minutes ago, JumboFett said:

Thank you! The plan is definitely to reintroduce the heater once I get the entire system reconditioned, but for now I’ve blocked off the port in the rear of the cylinder head and at the inlet neck. I’m going to reintroduce the bypass tube today as I continue to chip away at putting everything back together. Yesterday was dedicated to fitting a fat 3-core aluminum radiator; some slight core support cutting was necessary, but I kept it very minimal.

Which radiator did you use? Champion? I wonder why they haven't fixed that problem yet.

[JumboFett]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Which radiator did you use? Champion? I wonder why they haven't fixed that problem yet.

It’s one of those eBay specials, but besides the imperfect fit it’s pretty nice

[JumboFett]

On 2/12/2023 at 9:59 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Which radiator did you use? Champion? I wonder why they haven't fixed that problem yet.

 

[datzenmike]

On 2/12/2023 at 8:55 AM, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

So I had an issue a couple years ago with rising temps at idle on LS3 engines I use in my swaps. The temp would increase at idle only. Even 100 rpms over idle and you could see the temps come down rapidly. I spoke with GM engineers, GM techs, and a handful of tuners and mechanics. It got so bad on one LS3 that I almost pulled it for warranty.

 

Cut to the chase - it was a bad combination of heater valves and engine cooling paths. The GM requires that coolant circulate around the t-stat to prevent cavitating at the t-stat. Regular old heater valves that open and close do not provide this re-circulation, while modern 4-way heater valves do. The cavitation which occurred at the t-stat gave inaccurate temp readings to the t-stat itself and would cause it to stay closed longer. In a moment of inspiration, I disconnected the heater hoses and installed a short bypass hose. Problem cured. Side note - none of the experts were able to figure this out.

 

So long and short of it - I have been re-thinking all of those old tricks. Blocking off the bypass on a Datsun L motor used to be par for the course. It would be a neat experiment to see how the bypass affects the t-stat or overall engine temps in specific ranges.

 

This also has me thinking of heater delete. Old school race motors have a plug installed in the rear of the cylinder head, and at the inlet on the side of the timing cover. Would a bypass there help or hurt? It is commonly agreed upon that installing a bypass there would hurt the engine's coolant circulation path. Yet on BMC race engines, I always see the rear cylinder head heater port going to a header tank. Apples to oranges, maybe, but interesting nonetheless.

 

On 2/12/2023 at 9:42 AM, JumboFett said:

Thank you! The plan is definitely to reintroduce the heater once I get the entire system reconditioned, but for now I’ve blocked off the port in the rear of the cylinder head and at the inlet neck. I’m going to reintroduce the bypass tube today as I continue to chip away at putting everything back together. Yesterday was dedicated to fitting a fat 3-core aluminum radiator; some slight core support cutting was necessary, but I kept it very minimal.

 

If the heater is not being used the flow is shut off by the heater controls. If heater deleted or 'race car' then the flow from the rear of the head should be blocked.

 

The by pass on the thermostat housing is only for warm up!!! After than it's not needed as the thermostat is at least partly opened. It's a small shunt around the radiator but an acceptable one and won't affect the cooling system. If you have it... leave it, if you don't then you should. I think 510/521s L16s didn't and relied on the thermostat jiggle valve which does work but in the interest of getting the engine up to operating temperatures the fastest (and reduce emissions, which is the goal) then the by pass is best.

[ducky]

can I pull this back on topic? I got a redline weber kit and a redline regulator, just to make sure I have proper pressure, but I'm having a tough time figuring out where to actually install it. on my L20B, I have the original fuel lines with the return, as well as the OEM style mechanical fuel pump. I removed the air pipe gallery, so have some extra room there, but it just seems like there's no good spot to put this thing. The line fittings are pressed in, so it's not like I can just remove those easily and add a 90* fitting in.

 

Does anyone have experience installing this regulator, and if so, where did you mount it? I saw one picture of it on the front of the block, but there's not only not room there, due to the fan, but I want to keep my return line!

 

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/fuel_air_filters/Adjustable_fuel_regulators.htm

[datzenmike]

Between the fuel pump outlet and the hard line to the carburetor is a fuel hose joining them. Splice the regulator in line. If shortage of room, trim the hard line shorter.  The pump and the hard line are well supported so the regulator will be also.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Those are giant regulators. I have a similar one with a glass bowl and filter on my Sprite.

 

You shouldn't need it if you're running the stock mechanical pump though.

 

The filter king regulator/filter setup has turned ports. And you can get them with or without the gauge.

Edited August 13, 2023 by Stoffregen Motorsports