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Lowering a 210 wagon


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So I can pick up an 82, 210 wagon for next to nothing. I've always wanted a datsun wagon, but I'm an old ford guy and know much about nissan/datsun. If pick this thing up I'm going to have to lower it, and I'm thinking finding 280zx strut assembies may not be easy. My question is this: can I cut the strut tubes on the 210 down and weld them shorter and just put a set of kyb strut inserts for a 280zx in them?

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On 8/17/2022 at 4:36 PM, LittleSanityLeft said:

So I can pick up an 82, 210 wagon for next to nothing. I've always wanted a datsun wagon, but I'm an old ford guy and know much about nissan/datsun. If pick this thing up I'm going to have to lower it, and I'm thinking finding 280zx strut assembies may not be easy. My question is this: can I cut the strut tubes on the 210 down and weld them shorter and just put a set of kyb strut inserts for a 280zx in them?

 

Yes. Measure carefully so the insert fits the tube. You will have to cut the lower spring perch off and grind the weld off in order to lower the body down. Use your 210 bottom perches, springs and the top hats on the 280zx struts. When assembled use 2" split collars under the spring perch to support it. 

 

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Compress spring and snug the split collar up under the spring perch to support the body. Probably take several tries to get the height where you want it. They are rated at 5,000 pounds each or roughly enough to carry almost four 210s between them. Split collars are under $20 a pair and allow you to adjust height.

 

While the springs are off it might be a good idea to think about increasing the stiffness or spring rate. As the stock spring is still going to compress the same distance going over the same bump, keep in mind that the body is now 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" closer to the pavement and there is serious risk of bottoming out. To know how far to go you need to know what you have for a stock spring rate. With some simple measurements and simple math the rate can be calculated. Generally you are around 100 pounds per inch (lb./in.) Accurately measure the wire thickness, the coil diameter and the number of coils not touching. Armed with your current spring rate you can search for replacements that are stiffer and fit your coil perch and top hat. It's a bit expensive and you might get ones that are not stiff enough or too stiff. Alternatively you can calculate how much spring to cut from your stock spring to increase it. (shortening a coil spring makes it stiffer) Be conservative and increase in smaller amounts and try them till you get what you like. Remember that once cut, you can't put it back. I don't see why you can't support the car body, release the split collar and perch and slice off spring with an angle grinder while the spring is on the car then assemble and try it.

 

For example my 710 front coils are about 100 lb/in and I calculated that trimming 1 1/4 coils off would increase the rate 50% to 150 lb/in. This was enough for what I wanted but you may find somewhere between 175 and 220 more to your liking. Everyone is different and so are the front coil springs and what worked for me is not going to work for you. It cost nothing to trim and use my front coils. 

 

One other thing.... any change in ride height will also increase alignment toe in, so when you get where you want the the steering will be affected adversely. Another effect is an increase in 'bump steer'. When one wheel travels over a bump or through a pot hole the steering will toe in and the steering wheel will pull to the side. Steering geometry can be corrected by adding 'bump steer spacers' between the steering knuckle and the bottom of the strut. I just made my own out of 1/4" aluminum and trial and error found that 1/2" of spacers fixed this.

 

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