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Slave Cylinder Overextends Itself And Gets Stuck

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Hi guys got a quick question. So i just recently got my 200sx dogleg rebuilt (drove fine before it blew up) and put it back in with everything the same except for the throwout bearing. We compared old throwout with the new one and it was the same. Once everything was put back together i drove it down the street and it was completely fine, fast forward the next day i was pushing the clutch in a few times and it went straight to the floor. I pulled off the slave and the rod over extended itself and couldn't retract. A new slave didn't do anything and the same issue occurred , so I'm trying to figure out where i can find a longer rod and try to avoid pulling the trans out again. Any help would be much appreciated thanks! 72 510 wagon. Herse a pic of the trans.
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Edited by Nate.a.v
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Removing and then replacing the transmission should not cause this.


Check the clutch pedal play. Push down on pedal pad with thumb. There should be about 1/8" of play before there is firmness. If the pedal does not have this play the piston in the master does not fully retract and some pressure can be trapped in the line. The next time the clutch is used the volume of fluid plus the residual will push the slave slightly further. The next time even further and eventually the slave will over extend.


The clevis between the clutch pedal and the master push rod up under the dash can be disconnected and adjusted to increase the play.

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I alwasys used the stock 510 t/o rod that was threaded and used the 510 clutch fork that had the thru hole so there was more adjustablility.


If you bleed the clutch you can see how far the rod goes back in the clylinder.


if you use the 200 rod wihich is a noadjustable type you need to use the 200 fork. it usually has a cup on the end so the round side of the rod fits in it and when the clutch is bleed the cluth will go in far as it can if everything is correct. to push it in mush as it cam


It really dont take much to get the clutch to work . So your saying  when the clyinder is bottomed the rod is too short. Thus the plunger is out alot then when you push the clutch to get the clutch to work you over extend then the clyinder cup pushes out. pretty much ruining it.


this is why I use the 510 threaded ball end rod and fork to get more adjustment.

the 200sx and other are shorter  cause the to bearing or finger height on clutch was a different length

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