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    1972 Datsun 510 wagon

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  1. Hainz- When I dropped the spindle and oil pump the engine was at TDC (0 degrees at the timing mark) and the cam lobes were 10 and 2, made sure it was correct and pulled the valve cover off. When we reinstalled the distributor after repositioning the spindle the rotor was pointing directly at the plug, which we then put as the 1st plug and redid the firing order. Started the car past the bolt on the timing plate today, car fired right up . We used a timing light and when the distributor's timing plate was past the bolt it was at 0 degrees. When we went a bit farther clock wise we got around 15 degree so if we have more adjustability as shown in that aftermarket timing plate then we could bolt down the distributor at 12 degrees and have it stay there. Thanks! (see videos below for reference) (white mark on crank is the notch) (the timing bracket goes 20, 15, 10, 5, 0) At 0 Degrees At 15 Degrees
  2. I plan on using a timing gun later today to see where we are at when the car is running smoothly. Once i get the results ill report back to you guys. I'm thinking that we need a mount with more play as seen below. Hopefully theres another option, since the plate alone cost $40. If there isnt i'll just bite the bullet and purchase it. Thanks!
  3. Okay guys, today I pulled the oil pump and the spindle. The dimples were way off from where they were suppose to be, i think almost 90 degrees clockwise. Lined up the dimples and tossed it back into the engine. Now the tang is at 11:28. Found the first plug and redid the firing order. Tried starting the car and still no dice, did the same thing as yesterday, would have to keep on the throttle to prevent it from dying and would backfire and die, it would also be smoking a bunch through the exhaust (when the car ran and drove it would also be smoking a bunch outta the exhaust). Then we put it back to where we did yesterday, past the allowed space on the base, and it started right up and idled/revved perfectly and no smoke or backfires. Now I really have no clue other then it being the wrong mount. We reused the old mount on the points distributor onto the matchbox. I think the next plan is to get a timing light and see where we are at degrees wise when the mount is past the bolt. Any other suggestions would be great! Thanks guys! Dimples Lined Up Tang at 11:28
  4. Awesome!! Thanks a bunch mike ill get to it later today and let you know how it goes!
  5. Ah I see, here's the tang at TDC. Its way off compared to the tang shown in your picture.
  6. Mike not sure about how it would not be advanced, i could be wrong but turning the distributor clockwise would advance it correct? As seen in my most recent post i needed to turn the distributor clockwise for the car to start. Didn't use a timing light at all when starting the car today but just by knowledge turning the distributor clockwise advances it. We set TDC found 1st plug and correct firing order, car would not start properly, so we turned the distributor while still in the pedestal clockwise, needed to turn it even more so we removed the bolt and went past what the plate would allow as seen in my most recent post for the car to start and idle. Would it still not be advanced? I could be totally wrong but I'm not sure what else i would be doing. Just trying to understand. Thanks!
  7. Hi guys! Rechecked TDC/ Firing order and everything was correct. Car was still being a pain to start and idle, was able to run but would need to constantly give it gas for it to poorly run. Then my coworker had a great idea and realized the car was closer to starting when more advanced. So he completely took out the bolt that connects the plate to the pedestal and advanced it farther then it would allow if the bolt was still on (check pic below) and the thing fired right up. We messed with the idle speed screw and mixture screw and had it running like butter and starting on a dime. But why would it need to be so advanced? Is it possible for the gearing on the distributor to be off a tooth? That is what my coworkers suggested. If so what is the procedure to readjusting it? Thanks! Pic as mentioned above: Video of Car running:
  8. Car barely starts and runs for maybe 2-3 seconds and doesn't idle properly. When it did run we checked timing with a light as a said previously in this thread, it would only advance/retard from 25-18 when we loosened the bolt and turned the distributor clockwise and counterclockwise. Checked TDC multiple times and found what was supposedly the 1st plug, the rotor wouldn't directly point at the plug, but it was closer than the others. Tried this combo with the correct firing order and it would get spark but it would only crank and backfire through the carb while cranking. Did multiple other variations of the 1 number plug wire, found the one thats giving the car the abiltiy to start for a few seconds. Wired the distributor according to ggzilla's thread on installation of matchbox distributor. From the matchbox one wire went to the negative on the coil and another went to the left side of the ballast. Jumped the ballast by connecting a wire from both terminals on the ballast since its a "high energy coil". If i remember correctly choke opens up when cranking, its electric and connected to one of the fuses. I can double check firing order today and make sure its correct, ill check out the video after i get off school. Still pretty new to working on engines and such so im still trying to understand jumping a tooth, etc. Thanks guys!
  9. Hi guys, I'm back sorry for such a long pause. So we recently put in a matchbox dizzy with a msd blaster 2 coil to replace the points dizzy and stock coil. The 510 got transported over to my work for some help from my coworkers and they've been helping tinker with it. Car starts for a few seconds but doesn't hold, and often backfires through the carb when cranking. Sounds like it wants to start but its just not there. My coworkers suggested maybe the chain jumped a tooth or two? Would this possibly cause all the issues i've been running into? And if so how would I check if it jumped a tooth? If it did jump a tooth and we went to fix it would the whole timing cover need to be pulled or is there a way to cheat it and fix it from a different spot? Thanks for all the help guys!!
  10. It was running enough to be able to drive it up and down the street without any noticeable issues. We started messing with the timing/screws on the weber because the engine would diesel after being shut off, that's when the problems started. Today we put in a new matchbox distributor. We set the engine to TDC verified by the timing marks. It pointed to the 1st spark plug wire but wasn't dead on it. Looked through some of the older forum posts and saw that for an L20b that position of the tang is suppose to be like the one in the picture Datzenmike posted. As you can see mine is way off and this is at the 0 degree mark on the timing marks. Anyone know what to do from here? Put the new distributor in and tried firing it up but it would just backfiring threw the carb, couldn't confirm 100% where the first plug was. Any help would be much appreciated, sorry if I made a noob move somewhere, still trying to learn! Thanks! My picture of the dizzy mount Datzenmikes pic
  11. We unfortunately do not have a tach in the car but we have a dwell/tach meter. Im pretty sure the weber 32/36 does not have a idle cut solenoid.
  12. We swapped in the engine last year, PO said it ran fine. Drove it for the first time a few months back and it ran/drove great, the only thing that was bugging us was that it dieseled after we turned the engine off. So we tried adjusting the timing and carb and it stopped dieseling but now the car wont drive properly. In hindsight we should of just left it as is, but it is what it is.
  13. Hi everyone! Pretty new to tuning/timing the engine and I'm looking for some advice on my car, I have a datsun 510 wagon with a l20b and a weber 32/36. Recently we've been trying to get my car running somewhat reliably and the other day we tried taking the car out for a drive and as I was getting off the clutch in 1st gear and started giving it gas the car started bogging and almost felt like the car wasn't getting any power or gas? Not 100% sure. So we brought the car back in and suspected it was the timing or carb. We checked the timing with a timing gun and at idle the range it changed was from 18ish to 25ish when the distributor was fully rotated advanced and retarded. I was thinking it was a bit too high but unfortunately I'm unsure of how to lower the timing since the lowest it would go was 18 when it was fully retarded. Pretty stumped on what to do next, if anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated. I want to try to fix it myself before I just hire someone to fix it. Thanks!
  14. I have l16 intake manifold with su's on it so if I cant find a good 78 or 79 l20 manifold I'll use the l16 one.
  15. Ok cool thanks mike, looks like I'll be in the market for a 78 or 79 l20b intake manifold.
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