521aiden Posted January 18 Author Report Share Posted January 18 Back after a long while. I got the engine in hooked up my harness, finished my stainless hyd lines for the whole front of the car new 5an fuel line from front to back and a new 5an return to match. Progress has been on and off but I’ve had some spare time since school and the holidays let up. Lots of little stuff done since my last check in started up the truck and it sounds pretty good I ended up having to run an electric fuel pump because of my kameari chain tensioner being in the way of the pump lever I picked up a facet gold-flo 2.75-4psi that doesn’t something like 34gph which is plenty for my maybe 150hp 4 banger. I also ended up going with electric fans for clearance and i didn’t think revving a clutch or flex fan was a good idea. I bought one high perf 9” spal straight blade and then another one of the more standard 9” that’s lower profile it leaves just enough room for my accessory belts and what not. Wired the fans up with a derale pwm controller. I also had the chance to go for a test drive but that wasn’t exactly rewarding turns out my new south bend clutch uses a different height pressure plate than my previous so i’ve got to pull the engine back out to swap the throw out sleeve with the shorter style, I think I was using the 4 speed part previously? aside from having to take the engine out again my rad also sprang a leak in the core which isn’t the worst case scenario but it’s pretty inconvenient because i’ve got two fans a 3m stick on fan controller sensor and no space to pull the rad out without taking off my accessory pulleys. Anyway working on finishing the clutch and rad problems currently, also scored a NOS d411-88 sss single point dizzy to use with my lumenition infrared ignition kit, as of now my trucks got a l16 exhaust manifold a 32/36 weber and offy intake and a matchbox dizzy once my rings are seated and the engine is broken in i’ll be putting on my Stewart Wilkins header, gooseneck intake, dcoe45’s and the lumenition set up. I think that’s all for now if anyone has a recommendations for a radiator please let me know i’ve looked at champion, ebay, koyo, I know of the vw oem rads that some have used and am also considering us rad, griffin, ron davis, or pwr for a custom piece the core needs to be at least 9.5 tall and 20” wide. I know I don’t need anything custom and the smartest choice is probably the champion because it’s the same as the ebay rad just a little better fit and finish but for some reason i’m still leaning towards the much pricier fancy radiators. Thanks again for reading! Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted January 18 Author Report Share Posted January 18 here’s some vids I took on start up! first start rev first start idle 2 Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 (edited) Found a radiator! it’s a universal piece from northern radiator crossflow with two rows of 1” fins i believe only issue is it’s gonna be pretty tight getting it to fit and it doesn’t come with inlet or outlet hoses so i’ll have to cut and tig hose fittings but hopefully it turns out well and it’s a tiny bit thinner than my ebay rad so i might even get some clearance out of it! I’m also gearing up to do my dual carbs and lumenition and i found a NOS d411-88 which i think is an SSS L16 dizzy. it didn’t have the points set or the condensor or anything so i didn’t even have to pull anything apart to put in the infrared sensor and chopper blade. Slow but steady will update on whether my car is driveable once the new clutch sleeve/ arm and rad come in and i get all the hose fittings figured out. Thanks for reading! Edited January 24 by 521aiden 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 (edited) looks like maybe missing 2 holddown screw? read the INSTRUCTIONS carefully!!!!!!!!!! Like on the MSD point conversions back in the dayBelieve this was optical also,it says use the stock coil and ballast. Alot of people removed them and the modules would pop after a certain amount of time cause they put in a lower ohm coil and removed the ballast. I would have just used a pertronix 1741 for that dist. they might even have a newer red one now. Better. it only 2 wires and done. The optical has a box I think and more wires to run Edited January 24 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 It is missing the hold down screws, and it does use the box I have the box and I will throw in some screws. I’ll have to verify the primary resistance and what ballast looks like they recommend a proprietary coil with a included 1.5ohm ballast which makes me think it might be a 1.5 ohm primary coil but I messaged the distributor i bought my set up from to verify, other than that the set up is all pretty simple I think the only additional wiring I need is a relay for switched power, the cdi box also has a built in device to keep from burning up the ignition when it’s switched on so hopefully I won’t be frying that. The reason I got this was just because it was cool really I already have a matchbox dizzy that’s been good a chinese electronic dizzy that was OK and a few single and double points pieces but i figure this would be interesting and worst case i’ll throw the MB back in. Thanks for the advice, i’ll see how it all works out whenever the dcoes go on but for now i’ve got some other junk to worry about before i start doing unnecessary stuff. here’s a pic of the kit I have Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted February 13 Author Report Share Posted February 13 Kind of off topic but does anyone have the I.D. on this king pin set I impulse bought off yaj? I haven’t had any luck finding the same part number thanks! Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted February 13 Author Report Share Posted February 13 Also, my radiator is coming along but my clutch sleeve still hasn’t shipped so my truck is still imobile till further notice 😡. also I finally found a 4bbl offy intake at the Long beach swap meet i’ll probably never use it but it’s cool and now i have both the 2 and 4 barrel versions. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 The repair kit for 521 king pin is 40022-14825. his number isn't in my data. Not saying it won't work just can't identify it. Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted February 13 Author Report Share Posted February 13 it’s out of japan so maybe one of their part numbers? as far as king pits go i haven’t seen many of the nissan branded ones and I got it for cheap so if it doesn’t work no big deal. Quote Link to comment
521aiden Posted February 28 Author Report Share Posted February 28 Last weekend I pulled my engine out and messed with my clutch for a while, I ended up buying a 350z clutch fork kit from godzilla racing but apparently you also need the clutch sleeve to use it and they’re on back order so they did not send me one. I spent a good 3-4 hours trying different heights of sleeves (18,24, and 40mm) but no dice and after i called i was informed i needed a different piece so I had to abandon that. Good news is moving from a 40mm clutch sleeve to a 24mm fixed my problem and I actually have clutch engagement now! A friend of mine welded up my radiator but unfortunately it’s not quite right and he will have to do a few changes to it so it fits in the car correctly it came out pretty good though besides some slight miscalculations on my part and miscommunication in general. also test fitted my gooseneck intake and carbs with my sprint filter it’s a little too tall so i might be tackling making new throat piece that keeps it all under the hood. Baby steps! 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.