lowrider Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 20 hours ago, datzenmike said: The 4x4 transmission case has the boss but it's not precision milled out for the speedo pinion. Why would Nissan waste the time and drill a hole that has to be plugged to keep the oil in? The speedometer pinion is mounted in the transfer case on the 4x4s. The L and the Z series engines are about 20 degrees different in their mounting positions. The Z series will bolt to an L series engine but the transmission will be twisted 20 degrees to the right with the shifter in the passenger seat and the mount unable to bolt up. The front case half from any L series 71B transmission will convert to L series fit. Here is a shorty with an L series case. It's also from a 2wd so it does have a speedometer pinion in the tail. Again this transmission is too short for a 610 but would replace the 4 speed in that white 710. Unless it's an automatic??? Thee '77-'78 280z 5 speeds were all mid ratio. If it had a wide ratio then it came out of a '79 620 or an '80 720 truck. Easy enough to confirm what you have. Mark the input and output splines, place in first gear, turn input 20 times while counting the output turns... 5.5 turns.......... wide ratio with 3.592 first gear 6.0 turns.......... mid ratio with 3.321 first gear 6.5 turns.......... close ratio with 3.062 first gear I have always heard them referred to as wide ratio; the more you know! The trans in my wagon is definitely from a '77-'78 I pulled the engine and trans from a friends car some years ago before he V8 swapped it. I wish I hadn't grenaded the close ratio late 280ZX trans in my 260Z and installed it in the wagon instead. The large gap/RPM drop between 1st - 2nd on the 280Z trans is somewhat of an annoyance. Water under the bridge! The only reason I would be pulling the trans now is if something catastrophic happens to the drive-line. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 21, 2021 Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 As far as what was available on Datsun/Nissan cars and trucks (and ignoring the Nismo catalogue) there were three gear sets for the FS5W71B transmissions. I call them wide, mid and low. The Nismo catalogue has the 3.321 (what I call a mid ratio) as their wide, then a close ratio with 2.906 and then there are three more options even lower that that. Ultra close ratios without an overdrive and 5th the same as our 4th gear. Quote Link to comment
gmkeegan Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 ok i'm back! after looking over the car i found a fuel delivery/ return issue. The previous.. previous owner got the car running after it sat for quiet some time but could not get the stock oem return line unclogged. So what he did was run a brake line and zipped tied it to the stock location but it did not reach so he kept it there went out bought a copper line and zip tied that to the stock location. I was focused on getting the stock line cleared that way i didn't have to use the copper aftermarket line. also i want to add that the copper line hung lower then any other part of the car. about 4"-5" off the ground "picure below". i was able to clear out the oem line with the help of my 125psi compressor and some gas. The bottles show the progress of fuel and crap coming out of the line. Quote Link to comment
gmkeegan Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Also after a couple rides around town i found out that the rad cap seal was cracked and broken so i bought a new one and now no leaks Quote Link to comment
gmkeegan Posted August 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2021 Also have some NOS parts coming from the mother land. I know these are early style front market lights and my 610 is the later style but the deal was crazy good and i want to put 1973/ early style front end on it in the future. BTW if anyone has 610 front fenders please let me know! Quote Link to comment
gmkeegan Posted August 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) Got my markers in this week, they look better in person then they do in pictures. I was also able to install some pertonix points instead of the old points and coil. Whenever i get the kit for the 4 cylinder i always need to extend the wires, they seem to always come to short. When i was extending the wires i thought it would be a great time to wrap them in a nice sheeting. Looking at 610's online deciding what my car will need i decided i needed to get rid of the side trim. Now that it's gone in my eyes it looks so much cleaner and the lines flow better. The car still needs a buff to look half decent, but for now it will do. Rim's and tires in the near future lets hope. Edited August 6, 2021 by gmkeegan 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 (edited) OH dud that is a straight 610 and no rust!!!!!!!!!!!! I love the Pertronix and have 3 of them and no proplems besides the tape wearing out around the magnet ring. I use nail polish on the edge to keep tape from peeling If you run a Flametrower coil you dont need the ballast right since its a 3 ohm coil? Personally I would keep the stock coil and the ballast as the stock coil is s lower ohm coil and when bypassed is only seeing 1.6 ohms thus more current during cold weather start ups. Now Im not a Flamethrower coil expert but when usues this coil I assume you take out the stock ballast as if one keeps it in your actutually cutting the current down and getting less spark. So when Flamethrower install I think its NO ballast. Maybe the Flamethrower knows its under load during start and and lowers the ohms(I dont know how) but Most people that use a Flamethrower coil dont run a ballast and just put the hotstart with the ON wire at the =side coil and really dont have any proplems that I have seen on here. But math wise the stock coil and stock ballast will give a BIGGER spark to keep cost down I would if my car some OS mesh wheels from ROTA would look gangsta on this car https://rotawheels.us/os-mesh/ Edited August 6, 2021 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
gmkeegan Posted August 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2021 10 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: OH dud that is a straight 610 and no rust!!!!!!!!!!!! I love the Pertronix and have 3 of them and no proplems besides the tape wearing out around the magnet ring. I use nail polish on the edge to keep tape from peeling If you run a Flametrower coil you dont need the ballast right since its a 3 ohm coil? Personally I would keep the stock coil and the ballast as the stock coil is s lower ohm coil and when bypassed is only seeing 1.6 ohms thus more current during cold weather start ups. Now Im not a Flamethrower coil expert but when usues this coil I assume you take out the stock ballast as if one keeps it in your actutually cutting the current down and getting less spark. So when Flamethrower install I think its NO ballast. Maybe the Flamethrower knows its under load during start and and lowers the ohms(I dont know how) but Most people that use a Flamethrower coil dont run a ballast and just put the hotstart with the ON wire at the =side coil and really dont have any proplems that I have seen on here. But math wise the stock coil and stock ballast will give a BIGGER spark to keep cost down I would if my car some OS mesh wheels from ROTA would look gangsta on this car https://rotawheels.us/os-mesh/ i read on the box i should run the 1.5 ohm so thats what i bought and when i run the 1.5 coil i need to run the ballast. hence my setup. Quote Link to comment
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