4x4 front wheel bearings tightening procedure

[MaddieCycle]

I want to make sure I did this properly, based on the somewhat cryptic instructions in the FSM.

 

1) Torque to spec which is something like 55-72 ft lbs, which I imagine sets the bearings.

 

2) Loosen step-by-step using the lock ring as a guide until the difference in force needed to rotate the hub, as measured by using a spring gauge on the wheel stud, between two subsequent steps is about 2-4lbs

 

3) Put in all of the circlips etc... and you are done.

 

I was pretty surprised at how loose the locknut seemed when taking off the hubs.  But then following the procedure to reinstall, seems to be similar.  I guess the circlip helps keep it all together. My Jetta has no circlip, but the spec for the spindle lock nut is like 175 ft-lbs!

Thanks

Edited November 2, 2020 by MaddieCycle

[bottomwatcher]

Yeah they may seem loose on the nut but if you jack up the wheel, grab the tire by the bottom and try to wiggle it. If no play and it rotates easily you are all good. VWs are different, my old aircooled beetle is around 300ft lbs on the rear axle but a different set up. I have always done my fronts like trailer bearings. Snug to set them then back the nut off until you feel the slightest of wiggle them snug one notch. Not scientific and maybe I am wrong but it has worked for me with no issues.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Assuming this is like most 4x4 front wheel hubs. I do a lot of Toyota axles and have been through this dozens of times, and with varying results. Over the years, I have developed my own method. Sort of.

 

You are supposed to turn the hub as you "set" the bearings with the first torque. This helps get the bearings all the way in, seating themselves against the races.

 

Once the nut is backed off, I don't like the ambiguous instructions, so I have come up with my own 10# torque setting. Since then, I have had only one need re-adjusting. For the lock ring, I torque them on the Toyota axles to 60#.

 

If you are using new bearings, getting this right is all the more important and you'll probably need to re-tighten them after a few hundred miles.

[MaddieCycle]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Assuming this is like most 4x4 front wheel hubs. I do a lot of Toyota axles and have been through this dozens of times, and with varying results. Over the years, I have developed my own method. Sort of.

 

You are supposed to turn the hub as you "set" the bearings with the first torque. This helps get the bearings all the way in, seating themselves against the races.

 

Once the nut is backed off, I don't like the ambiguous instructions, so I have come up with my own 10# torque setting. Since then, I have had only one need re-adjusting. For the lock ring, I torque them on the Toyota axles to 60#.

 

If you are using new bearings, getting this right is all the more important and you'll probably need to re-tighten them after a few hundred miles.

 

Yes, this is 4x4. There is no locknut however.  There is the lock ring and then a circlip, and then the locking mechanism slides on and is bolted in place.