Oil pressure/flow in J13 valve train.

[damen_red]

Hi all, I am in the process of resurrecting a 1967 520 with a J13 engine, you can see my thread in the 520 section under "Red's 520". I just started it up for the first time this weekend and am trying to evaluate it's condition now that it's running. It was a "ran when pulled" engine I got from another forum member here, and there was no history on it other than it "looked good". There is no oil pressure gauge, so I just opened up the oil filler cap to take a look while running and was surprised to not see much oil flowing around. I was expecting to see some oil flowing, instead it just looked wet and I couldn't see any real movement other than possible weeping through the base of one of the risers I could see. Is this normal? I have to admit I have never looked at the valve train of any of my running engines, so I was not really sure what to expect, but I would not have guessed it looking like this. Anyways, I am ordering an oil pressure/temperature gauge because I like more precise info, but if someone thinks this doesn't seem right I will have to investigate further.

[DanielC]

Datsun L-engines use a British pipe standard for the oil pressure switch.  you will need to get an Edelmann 265220 fitting to convert the British thread to a 1/8 NPT thread.

[datzenmike]

Wet should be good enough.

 

This is an older flat tappet engine that would benefit from an oil with a high ZDDP content that is being slowly reduced in today's oils. In fact today's oils are down to half the ZDDP level from 20-30 years ago because newer cars don't need it and it harms the latest catalytic converters. Myself I'm choosing to NOT believe oil company claims that today's oils are reverse compatible with my precious Datsun's engine. It's easy enough to just reach for a different oil on the shelf that still has the older higher levels. You should look up the ZDDP controversy and make your own decision. I use Shell Rotella T4 in 10w30 or 15w40. It's a light duty diesel oil that is exempt from being re-formulated. There are others, this is just the easy choice for me.

[damen_red]

Thanks for the info! I just happen to have a bottle of zddp additive, now that I have ran it up to temp, I’m going to change the oil and see of things improve, wasn’t planning on using it here, but you have a good point. I’m also wondering of this has hardened valve seats installed? If not I do have a fresh head rebuild with hardened seats. I took compression numbers and they were in the 130-140psi range, a little low, so may have to deal with a little blowby while exploring a rebuild with one of my other blocks.

[datzenmike]

Additive is fine but more convenient to just buy oil with the correct amount in it. You want 1,000 ppm with 1,200 PPM ideal.

 

Hardened valve came in well after leaded gas was done away with. The lead, besides being an octane booster, actually lubricated the soft valve seats.