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damen_red

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About damen_red

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  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1967 520, 1968 1600 Roadster
  • Interests
    Cars

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  1. Time Left: 9 days and 8 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Hi, I’m looking for a pair of seat brackets that bolt to the floor for my ‘67 520, rails would be great too, but just the brackets will do, thanks!

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    San Diego, California - US

  2. Thanks for the info! I just happen to have a bottle of zddp additive, now that I have ran it up to temp, I’m going to change the oil and see of things improve, wasn’t planning on using it here, but you have a good point. I’m also wondering of this has hardened valve seats installed? If not I do have a fresh head rebuild with hardened seats. I took compression numbers and they were in the 130-140psi range, a little low, so may have to deal with a little blowby while exploring a rebuild with one of my other blocks.
  3. Hi all, I am in the process of resurrecting a 1967 520 with a J13 engine, you can see my thread in the 520 section under "Red's 520". I just started it up for the first time this weekend and am trying to evaluate it's condition now that it's running. It was a "ran when pulled" engine I got from another forum member here, and there was no history on it other than it "looked good". There is no oil pressure gauge, so I just opened up the oil filler cap to take a look while running and was surprised to not see much oil flowing around. I was expecting to see some oil flowing, instead it just looked wet and I couldn't see any real movement other than possible weeping through the base of one of the risers I could see. Is this normal? I have to admit I have never looked at the valve train of any of my running engines, so I was not really sure what to expect, but I would not have guessed it looking like this. Anyways, I am ordering an oil pressure/temperature gauge because I like more precise info, but if someone thinks this doesn't seem right I will have to investigate further.
  4. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Well, had a bit of time to sort out a few little things today and it runs! First was getting the cooling system buttoned up, I filled it up with water and it of course leaked, the thermostat housing was the culprit and I figured out that according to the book, there are 2 gaskets for that, I just had the one, took it off and used some Permatex, while it was curing I decided to look at the fuel system. The carb that was on the engine I bought had a slightly different throttle linkage setup than what I had, so I decided to just swap my carb back over, doing so I took the 3 carbs I have and tried to match as closely as I could get to the book as far as choke/linkage/fuel inlet goes and I think I got it. The fuel system was next since I had the carb on now, I used a mixture again of what came on the motor, namely the fuel pump, and what I had on the truck, I liked the old glass bowl fuel filter and cleaned out that as best I could, but put another generic filter inline to catch anything should the old spring and sock type filter decide to let go. The last part of the truck I had not yet explored was the fuel tank, fully expecting that to be a rusty nightmare like the rest of the truck, I opened up the inspection hole and lo and behold it was clean as a whistle! All the zinc coating was intact and looked as if someone had completely drained it before mothballing it for 25 years, what a relief! I skipped ahead a little bit because I ran the truck at first with just a gas canister as the tank, everything is connected as normal, ran it again tonight and it looks like at least for the near term the cooling system is holding pressure. I am afraid to run it for very long because the dash gauges are not working so I have no idea what my water temp/oil pressure is, but those are mostly just idiot lights so I would like to order some accurate gauges and put them in before running it any more. One concern is oil pressure, for one I am getting some smoking after running a few minutes, I checked inside the valve cover and don't really see much oil movement, is this normal? It looks wet, but I'm not seeing any noticeable amount of oil flowing anywhere, shouldn't I see lots of oil squirting everywhere? I also am looking at the electrical, things are coming back one by one as I fix bad connections and grounds, kind of mad at myself, I was tired and in a hurry and I broke one of the tabs on the cluster bezel, this truck doesn't need any more broken parts! Here's a video of one of the first starts, it ran fast until I realized the throttle linkage was just a tad short for some unknown reason, after I disconnected it, I could adjust the idle and it ran fairly smooth.
  5. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I wish I was familiar enough with TJ, but I don’t go down there often enough to even know where to go. At any rate, I took a deep breath today and after lots of scrubbing and brass wire wheeling I made my first attempt at radiator repair! Not sure I would have paid anyone to do such a crappy job, but it at least holds water, don’t know if it holds pressure yet, though. The flux washed off and the joint is mostly smooth, it was hard to get a “perfect” flow. Does the fan shroud normally sit like this? Here it is installed, tomorrow I’ll try to fill it up.
  6. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Drivetrain is in, just cleaned it up as best I could and bolted it back up. Got the clutch hydraulics working, I bought a clutch master from Rockauto for a 521 as read in another forum, but didn't feel like rerouting the hydraulic line, so I took the old, dry one apart and it looked pretty good inside. I figure it just went dry because the flex line had cracked and leaked, so someone hit the clutch and the pedal never came back up. It took some effort to get the piston to come back out, but after a good cleaning, I bled it and hooked it back up, I now get good clutch pressure, at least enough to disengage the clutch, if it's a leaker I have a new one to install. I have kind of a common theme here in just using the existing parts to get going because until I get everything back in to a running state I don't know what condition anything is in. Except for the brakes, those are 100% new. So going with my aforementioned theme, I have been having some difficulty in getting my radiator repaired, I have taken it to two different places, both of which refused to even hot tank it suggesting a complete rebuild(which there are no tanks available) or a full custom radiator, both of which at this point don't makes sense because there are dozens of things left to do to get it running, a 3 row custom radiator is a luxury at this point! Here is what it looked like when I pulled it. The system was bone dry and hard to tell exactly what went wrong, but I am sure this is what put the truck out of commission back in 1996. So, while I figure out where to get a "good" radiator from, I decide to try to work this one over at least enough to fill the system and roll it on and off a trailer. I start by removing the shroud and filling it up with Evaporust and letting it sit for a few days. Putting liquid in it for the first time, it becomes clear exactly where the break is, it looks like the soldered seam for the top cover has split, probably from an overheating event. Here's a better angle with the seam cleaned, the split is about 8 inches long. After much Youtubeing I determine that I am going to attempt to reflow the solder myself, I have done some plumbing and PCB rework, and being an Engineer I am generally curious about how these these things work and am fueled by someone telling me that it can't be done. I hit the seam with a MAPP gas torch and see the solder bubble up, so I know it's not brazed. I grab some acid flux and solid core solder and clean the joint as best I can with a wire wheel. The attempt was a disaster and i was unable to get enough clean area to sweat the joint cleanly and the solder just kept falling through the crack. After a few attempts I get frustrated and decide to go all in and remove the cover completely, besides, the system overheated somehow and I am suspecting the rods are mostly plugged up, so I torch the heck out of it and successfully remove the top, mostly without damaging anything. I did notice that the top is made of copper and the flanges have now bent out from the copious amount of heat. I am afraid to try and bend them back because the copper is soft. This is what it looks like inside. Fascinating. Looks like a radiator hose tension spring had corroded and gotten sucked into the radiator, surprisingly most of the rods are clear, only two were clogged 100%. I cleared those out and scrubbed the holy heck out of everything including the top. Here's what they look like now. So, I wish there was a happy end to this story, but it being a holiday that's all the time I had to work at it. My question to the forum is, has anyone ever done or considered purchasing one of those 100$ aluminum L series 520/521 radiators and then just having the correct inlet and outlet tubes welded/brazed on? It seems like a simple solution to us J-series guys that have no readily available replacements. Anyways, the saga will continue, I want to get my blasting cabinet running again so I can really clean that top piece, but may just wire-wheel it and see if it'll stick. Either way I learned something about these old radiators, also maybe with the money I save I could get an acetylene torch, I think the MAPP gas is contaminating the solder joint, most of the videos I saw used an oxy/acetylene torch.
  7. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Sorry, it took me a while to upload an image, but to be sure, here is the mount in question, not broken, but rather squishy and difficult to remove because of how it needs to "slide" out, which is the only reason I'm thinking about replacing it.
  8. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Thanks for including pictures to clarify! Yes, mine is the stock mount for the J engine and 4-speed(your first picture). This is kind of what I was hoping, that someone has figured out how to use the $20 mount for the 520, my metal fabricating skills are terrible, but that bracket looks simple enough, maybe in the future, once I am on the road, it would be a worthwhile endeavor, I am just eyeing all the rubber and anticipating that once it is moving under it's own power some things will start to give!
  9. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Also, I would like to look in to replacing the transmission mount, mine is OK, but I can't seem to find a replacement anywhere for this exact part, I seem to remember reading a post about retrofitting one from a 521, but most of my search hits have to do with swapping to a 5 speed, does anyone recall being able to swap to a suitable mount while retaining the 4 speed? Thanks!
  10. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Ok, back at it again, I decided to finally commit to my project after 4 years and went down to the DMV to sort the title! After 5 hours of line waiting over two days, I got my paperwork in order and paid tax and registration, only thing left to do is get the weight certified(tax reasons) and VIN verified. Of course I am missing the chassis ID plate that they would normally use as the VIN, but was able to use some steel wool on the passenger side frame to uncover the stamp there and thankfully it matches the title. Will be a shame to give up the original title, it's an actual "pink" slip from 1970, but it makes the paperwork so much easier and it's not like it would add that much value, the truck is pretty rusted out! Now, since I need to at least get it moving on and off a trailer, I decided to finally finish up that brake job I started over a year ago and ordered new drums from RockAuto, did that on Saturday, with little trouble other than the rear drums fitting really, really tight. I may take the suggestion from other threads and shave off a little of the shoe to get some clearance so they at least don't burn up while on my first drive. I also had picked up a supposed running engine from another forum member in the Long Beach area, back in March, so I spent yesterday removing and replacing that, it was a record for me because it is typically months to years from removal to replacement. Really happy to finally start putting things back together and it is starting to feel like a vehicle again, things left now are the radiator and seat rails, I am messaging another forum member here that has these things, but not without their issues, but really hoping to work this out soon and get it at least driving and stopping!
  11. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Well, still picking away at this one, found a good block from up in the LA area, but it had a bad distributor gear on the camshaft, so I pulled out the one from my existing block, and I see this: There's a LOT of deep, crusty oxidation, can't seem to find a reliable source for a replacement, anyone out there have a better looking j13 cam? I know some places can build up the lobes and regrind them, and I'm not opposed to that either, anyone have a recommendation for that as well? BTW, in case anyone is interested, you absolutely can pull the camshaft out without pulling the engine, only thing I had to get creative with was breaking the crank shaft pulley bolt loose but was able to sneak in an impact socket with an impact swivel. Other crazy thoughts are possibly replacing the distributor with an electronic one and reusing the camshaft with the broken drive gear, anyone ever done that?
  12. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I'm thinking I need to start a new thread, "New 520 owner" seems a little misleading after 2 years... DR
  13. damen_red

    Red's 520

    There is hope yet! I pulled the lifter in front of that last one, this is what it looks like: Peering through the opening, the lifter guide actually seems OK, it was really hard to get my phone to focus on the hole, this is the best I have: And trying to get an even tougher shot, this is peering down the pushrod hole to the cam lobe underneath(all the way at the bottom of the picture), it is most definitely rusted, but as I turn the crank, the other sides of the cam lobe are still shiny, maybe a cam grind would clean everything up? Looks like no matter what, that block is coming out and having some work done, now if I could only get my engine lift out from under that pile of junk in my shed! It's still a mystery to me how this rust/corrosion got there, still trying to do an F/A, hopefully not to find a crack in the block, but the machine shop should be able to tell me that. DR
  14. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Thanks, Charlie, let me at least pull the camshaft before taking a drive out to Arizona. Seeing where the corrosion is and isn't, the lifter bore might be OK, not opposed to rebuilding a block, just don't know if it will be THIS block. I was just in Phoenix over Presidents Day weekend, too! DR
  15. damen_red

    Red's 520

    After sitting for a year(Hockey season takes up a LOT of my time!), I finally am back on this. I did end up getting a seat from hosestop, and have replaced all the hydraulics in the braking system. Big set back this weekend though, I decided to inspect the lifters before putting the rebuilt head on, and this is what I found: Pretty bad. I was expecting some scoring, but not full on corrosion! So, I ask again, anyone have a J series engine sitting around? DR
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