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About damen_red

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  • Location
    San Diego
  • Cars
    1967 520, 1968 1600 Roadster
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  1. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Well, still picking away at this one, found a good block from up in the LA area, but it had a bad distributor gear on the camshaft, so I pulled out the one from my existing block, and I see this: There's a LOT of deep, crusty oxidation, can't seem to find a reliable source for a replacement, anyone out there have a better looking j13 cam? I know some places can build up the lobes and regrind them, and I'm not opposed to that either, anyone have a recommendation for that as well? BTW, in case anyone is interested, you absolutely can pull the camshaft out without pulling the engine, only thing I had to get creative with was breaking the crank shaft pulley bolt loose but was able to sneak in an impact socket with an impact swivel. Other crazy thoughts are possibly replacing the distributor with an electronic one and reusing the camshaft with the broken drive gear, anyone ever done that?
  2. Time Left: 4 days and 16 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I've been sitting on my project for a year waiting for this unicorn to show up on Craigslist, but I need to get my project moving, already rebuilt the head but lower end has some components that are beyond salvage, namely the tappets are deeply pitted, so I am looking for a j13 engine, either rebuild-able or a runner, let me know what you have, thanks! I am in Southern California.


    El Cajon, California - US

  3. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I'm thinking I need to start a new thread, "New 520 owner" seems a little misleading after 2 years... DR
  4. damen_red

    Red's 520

    There is hope yet! I pulled the lifter in front of that last one, this is what it looks like: Peering through the opening, the lifter guide actually seems OK, it was really hard to get my phone to focus on the hole, this is the best I have: And trying to get an even tougher shot, this is peering down the pushrod hole to the cam lobe underneath(all the way at the bottom of the picture), it is most definitely rusted, but as I turn the crank, the other sides of the cam lobe are still shiny, maybe a cam grind would clean everything up? Looks like no matter what, that block is coming out and having some work done, now if I could only get my engine lift out from under that pile of junk in my shed! It's still a mystery to me how this rust/corrosion got there, still trying to do an F/A, hopefully not to find a crack in the block, but the machine shop should be able to tell me that. DR
  5. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Thanks, Charlie, let me at least pull the camshaft before taking a drive out to Arizona. Seeing where the corrosion is and isn't, the lifter bore might be OK, not opposed to rebuilding a block, just don't know if it will be THIS block. I was just in Phoenix over Presidents Day weekend, too! DR
  6. damen_red

    Red's 520

    After sitting for a year(Hockey season takes up a LOT of my time!), I finally am back on this. I did end up getting a seat from hosestop, and have replaced all the hydraulics in the braking system. Big set back this weekend though, I decided to inspect the lifters before putting the rebuilt head on, and this is what I found: Pretty bad. I was expecting some scoring, but not full on corrosion! So, I ask again, anyone have a J series engine sitting around? DR
  7. I'm talking about the rubber hose that goes from the hard line to the junction block that splits out the rear left and right brake lines. It appears to be SAE on one side and metric on the other. The end that connects to the brake line that comes from the front of the truck is definately not the same size nut as the one I took off. I'll take some pics this weekend when I get the wheel off again.
  8. Thanks! At this point I should take the other side off so I can see exactly what I am really missing, someone near me thinks they have some too, along with a seat, which is super awesome! Will keep you in mind, it's good to know where the parts are as I am just getting started on this one. Thanks! As a side note, I replaced the rear brake hose with the Centric one from Rock Auto, the fitting that goes to the brass distribution block fit perfectly, but the one that goes to the hard line was rather difficult to tighten down, along with that the hex fitting on it was too small to fit in the recess and seemed to be a metric 17mm instead of the SAE fitting on the one that I took off. I went ahead and ordered the Beck Arnley one to see if it was a better match, along with some tubing and fittings in case I stripped the one that's on there. Anyone else here run into the same trouble? I am hoping that the nut is just tapered and seals as it tightens?
  9. That was quick! They already canceled my order, citing the same reason as the dealer.
  10. Called the dealer and they are no longer available, nissanpartswarehouse.com seemed to have them, never heard of them before, they took PayPal, so I placed an order anyways.
  11. Found this post too of someone looking for the exact same part, nissanparts.cc doesn't carry it any more, I'll try the dealer today now that I have the part number, thanks everyone for their input!
  12. That would be awesome, thanks! Brakes are the one thing I want to get absolutely perfect!
  13. Every part will be replaced, have no doubt! My problem here is that I have an incomplete system. I am using the old parts to mock up where the new parts will go while I wait for them to be delivered because I have no assurance that all the pieces are even there! Again, does anyone have a picture of a complete, correctly assembled rear brake system?
  14. Thanks! Maybe I read my manual wrong, but according to this parts diagram, it is actually the "Link Extension" (part #9) that I am missing. That name makes more sense to me as the lever arm is the one connected to the cable.
  15. I probably should have prefaced my post with saying I have never driven this truck, I towed it home about 9 months ago and it hadn't run for about 15 years. Everything is seized or locked up to some degree and I'm tackling it piece by piece. I didn't realize that there was a front-back orientation to these shoes, it's been a long while since I have worked on drum brakes. I'm hoping once I get the new shoes and hardware it will become clear which is front and which is rear. As far as how they were originally fitted, I don't think there is any way that was correct. The slot for the parking brake toggle lever is below the wheel hub, as shown in this picture(red arrow): Also, you can see how the spring bends around the adjuster, which can't be right! It also shows in the service manual that the slots for the parking brake toggle lever are above the wheel hub, once I had oriented the shoes correctly(except for the previously mentioned Front-back orientation) everything went back together like a charm.
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