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damen_red

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Everything posted by damen_red

  1. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Well, still picking away at this one, found a good block from up in the LA area, but it had a bad distributor gear on the camshaft, so I pulled out the one from my existing block, and I see this: There's a LOT of deep, crusty oxidation, can't seem to find a reliable source for a replacement, anyone out there have a better looking j13 cam? I know some places can build up the lobes and regrind them, and I'm not opposed to that either, anyone have a recommendation for that as well? BTW, in case anyone is interested, you absolutely can pull the camshaft out without pulling the engine, only thing I had to get creative with was breaking the crank shaft pulley bolt loose but was able to sneak in an impact socket with an impact swivel. Other crazy thoughts are possibly replacing the distributor with an electronic one and reusing the camshaft with the broken drive gear, anyone ever done that?
  2. Time Left: 8 days and 1 hour

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I've been sitting on my project for a year waiting for this unicorn to show up on Craigslist, but I need to get my project moving, already rebuilt the head but lower end has some components that are beyond salvage, namely the tappets are deeply pitted, so I am looking for a j13 engine, either rebuild-able or a runner, let me know what you have, thanks! I am in Southern California.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

    El Cajon, California - US

  3. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I'm thinking I need to start a new thread, "New 520 owner" seems a little misleading after 2 years... DR
  4. damen_red

    Red's 520

    There is hope yet! I pulled the lifter in front of that last one, this is what it looks like: Peering through the opening, the lifter guide actually seems OK, it was really hard to get my phone to focus on the hole, this is the best I have: And trying to get an even tougher shot, this is peering down the pushrod hole to the cam lobe underneath(all the way at the bottom of the picture), it is most definitely rusted, but as I turn the crank, the other sides of the cam lobe are still shiny, maybe a cam grind would clean everything up? Looks like no matter what, that block is coming out and having some work done, now if I could only get my engine lift out from under that pile of junk in my shed! It's still a mystery to me how this rust/corrosion got there, still trying to do an F/A, hopefully not to find a crack in the block, but the machine shop should be able to tell me that. DR
  5. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Thanks, Charlie, let me at least pull the camshaft before taking a drive out to Arizona. Seeing where the corrosion is and isn't, the lifter bore might be OK, not opposed to rebuilding a block, just don't know if it will be THIS block. I was just in Phoenix over Presidents Day weekend, too! DR
  6. damen_red

    Red's 520

    After sitting for a year(Hockey season takes up a LOT of my time!), I finally am back on this. I did end up getting a seat from hosestop, and have replaced all the hydraulics in the braking system. Big set back this weekend though, I decided to inspect the lifters before putting the rebuilt head on, and this is what I found: Pretty bad. I was expecting some scoring, but not full on corrosion! So, I ask again, anyone have a J series engine sitting around? DR
  7. I'm talking about the rubber hose that goes from the hard line to the junction block that splits out the rear left and right brake lines. It appears to be SAE on one side and metric on the other. The end that connects to the brake line that comes from the front of the truck is definately not the same size nut as the one I took off. I'll take some pics this weekend when I get the wheel off again.
  8. Thanks! At this point I should take the other side off so I can see exactly what I am really missing, someone near me thinks they have some too, along with a seat, which is super awesome! Will keep you in mind, it's good to know where the parts are as I am just getting started on this one. Thanks! As a side note, I replaced the rear brake hose with the Centric one from Rock Auto, the fitting that goes to the brass distribution block fit perfectly, but the one that goes to the hard line was rather difficult to tighten down, along with that the hex fitting on it was too small to fit in the recess and seemed to be a metric 17mm instead of the SAE fitting on the one that I took off. I went ahead and ordered the Beck Arnley one to see if it was a better match, along with some tubing and fittings in case I stripped the one that's on there. Anyone else here run into the same trouble? I am hoping that the nut is just tapered and seals as it tightens?
  9. That was quick! They already canceled my order, citing the same reason as the dealer.
  10. Called the dealer and they are no longer available, nissanpartswarehouse.com seemed to have them, never heard of them before, they took PayPal, so I placed an order anyways.
  11. Found this post too of someone looking for the exact same part, nissanparts.cc doesn't carry it any more, I'll try the dealer today now that I have the part number, thanks everyone for their input!
  12. That would be awesome, thanks! Brakes are the one thing I want to get absolutely perfect!
  13. Every part will be replaced, have no doubt! My problem here is that I have an incomplete system. I am using the old parts to mock up where the new parts will go while I wait for them to be delivered because I have no assurance that all the pieces are even there! Again, does anyone have a picture of a complete, correctly assembled rear brake system?
  14. Thanks! Maybe I read my manual wrong, but according to this parts diagram, it is actually the "Link Extension" (part #9) that I am missing. That name makes more sense to me as the lever arm is the one connected to the cable.
  15. I probably should have prefaced my post with saying I have never driven this truck, I towed it home about 9 months ago and it hadn't run for about 15 years. Everything is seized or locked up to some degree and I'm tackling it piece by piece. I didn't realize that there was a front-back orientation to these shoes, it's been a long while since I have worked on drum brakes. I'm hoping once I get the new shoes and hardware it will become clear which is front and which is rear. As far as how they were originally fitted, I don't think there is any way that was correct. The slot for the parking brake toggle lever is below the wheel hub, as shown in this picture(red arrow): Also, you can see how the spring bends around the adjuster, which can't be right! It also shows in the service manual that the slots for the parking brake toggle lever are above the wheel hub, once I had oriented the shoes correctly(except for the previously mentioned Front-back orientation) everything went back together like a charm.
  16. Hi all, my first major project on my recently acquired '68 520 was to redo all the hydraulics and related brake adjustments. I tackled the master cylinder and front brakes first and that seems to have gone OK, everything went back together and I have a good understanding of how the brake adjusters are supposed to work. When I went to do the rear brakes I removed the brake drum and found them in really poor shape, there was metal on metal and lots of crud. Upon closer inspection something didn't look quite right, here is a picture of what I found. After much head scratching and looking at the two service manuals I realized that they had installed the brake shoes upside down! So I cleaned everything up as best I could, and reassembled it to look like so. Now, I know these are still not quite right, first off, I missed hooking the small spring on the brake adjuster tang, but I have ordered all new hardware and brake shoes, so I will fix that when replaced. The one thing that I really need help with is how the emergency brakes go together, I am missing the piece the manual calls "Lever, toggle (L.H.)" and am not sure I have the "Link Extension" that connects to the cable placed properly. Does anyone know where I can get the missing piece and a picture of how these brakes should look stock. The exploded diagram is great for accounting for all the pieces, but I feel like a picture would clear a lot up especially considering I have never seen what a correct installation looks like. Is there a toggle lever on both sides? I haven't done the right side yet, but am expecting the same thing there too. I have searched around and have most of what I need as far as information goes, but the one thing I am missing is a good picture of how the rear brakes go together because most forum posts no longer have the pictures included. Thanks in advance!
  17. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Small update, just got the head back from the machine shop, it looks beautiful! I also had them rebuild my rocker shaft. Wayno, the one I got from you had taller "towers" than my original, but the shaft from mine was toast, so they took the shaft and whatever parts I needed from yours and re used as many of my original parts as they could. I'm happy the way it turned out. Any idea on why the difference in tower height? I also noticed the shaft I sourced from an MG had shorter towers like mine did, the engine appears to have been original, but now I'm wondering which ones are the original parts. Still looking for a seat!
  18. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Jwilkers, as a matter of fact I haven't please PM me and we can talk, thanks!
  19. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Wayno, I think that's the ticket, I have a nice rocker assembly now(got it yesterday by the way, thanks!), which was the only thing I wouldn't have felt right just putting back on there. The head has been cleaned and magnafluxed, which is always good. It would have been nice to at least have the surfaces between the rockers and valves re ground, as those will be the most dissimilar and would wear the fastest but, c'est la vie. I can lap the valves in and bolt it on, this isn't my daily driver, so I'm a little more willing to have some fun with it. I know I'll eventually have to throw some real money at it, but right now I'm just trying to see where I'm at, for all I know the transmission could be toast, and I'd be taking out the whole shebang anyways. Just thinking out loud right now, because I'll be in Valencia this weekend and will have no time to work on the truck.
  20. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I guess I'm hesitant because I don't know how the bottom end looks yet, I'm ok spending a couple hundred for a freshening, but when it approaches the cost of a running pull, I have to weigh my options. Besides, there was nothing wrong with the head, other than being worn, which shouldn't prevent me from putting it back together and running it enough to suss out any other problems, still don't know if it'll hold water, that's a biggie.
  21. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Is that the right link? You pasted in a post about photobucket. DR
  22. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Hi Craig, I may be interested in you old engine, I just heard back from the machine shop and on top of everything they were going to have to do, it needed hardened valve seats as well, which made the head rebuild cost about $400, so I decided to just have them stop there and I'm going to pick up the head in parts and try to source another one or maybe get a competitive quote for a complete rebuild with hardened seats. I'll PM you, thanks! DR
  23. damen_red

    Red's 520

    Ok, so worked on the brakes today, didn't get as far as I had hoped because I ran into some inevitable parts-fitment problems. The brake master was pretty corroded and took some convincing to get off. The challenge when putting the new one on had to do with the fitting on the adjustable brake plunger being too wide for the pedal retainer, meaning I couldn't hook the return spring on the end, which also acts a s the retaining clip, so I stuck it in the vise, and bed the tabs in, just a bit, like so: And that seemed to do it, but this is where everything went down hill. Just bending it in the vise was the wrong thing to do because I ended up distorting the threads, so it became impossible to adjust the arm once it was in place, so I struggled with it for a bit until I got it adjusted just enough to see that in order to shorten the rod enough, the threads were now hitting the pedal and binding up the whole assembly. Of all the little things I have to "fit" to any car, brakes are the one thing that I just want to "work", but oh well, I had to take it through to the end just to see what it would take. My next idea was to take the arm off of the old M/C and put it on the new one, but I quickly found out that the retaining washer was too big to fit in the old one, so I mulled it over for a bit and started shaving down the retaining washer to fit. That took a while and some layers of skin, but I finally got it in and the retaining clip in place. I have all the hydraulics, but ran short on time and I figured that I would like to try and flush some fluid through the lines before putting the new hydraulics in, to try and get out as much corrosion, or dust, or whatever is in there out before fitting the new wheel cylinders. Well, it's bone dry in there and I couldn't push any fluid through at all, even while pulling a vacuum at one of the wheels, so things are probably pretty messed up and it looks like a complete disassembly of all the lines and injecting fluid manually into them before reassembling is what might have to happen. I am beginning to remember why my roadster project stalled out, the fear of each and every rusted nut potentially breaking and putting me back days or weeks is starting to get to me, I am trying to douse whatever I plan on working on with prodigious amounts of liquid wrench, but it never seems to be enough! Forgot to take some "after" shots.
  24. damen_red

    Red's 520

    This has always interested me, because the same goes for the roadster, but I have never been able to find a forklift for "cheap", of course my search has been mostly limited to Craigslist and come up with things like this (Datsun forklift, $2700). Is there a trick to finding a clapped out forklift that I can pull an engine from?
  25. damen_red

    Red's 520

    I was hoping not to get too far into the engine, but seeing as how I didn't get my head back and they have those handy-dandy lifter access ports, I owe it to myself to at least inspect the lifters. I did get the MBG Rocker assembly, the rockers seem tight on there, which could be a good thing, but I'd like to disassemble it and inspect it, along with comparing it to the Datsun assembly.
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