Truck Update

[Dog_run_720]

Ok, it's been a while and there are some updates. Got the motor rebuilt. Did a head swap off a donor truck I got for cheap. Swapped a bunch of little parts. At this point it's down to cosmetic stuff. However, I have run into a slight issue I was hoping the community could help me with. 

 

The truck runs great, but if I let the clutch all the way out it kills it. I have to keep the clutch pedal depressed about a half inch to keep it running. I'm not sure where to start with this one.

 

Also, if anyone could point me in the direction of a good source of interior parts it would be greatly appreciated. I'm missing 1 and half door panels including the armrest/pull handle. Thanks in advance

[datzenmike]

Is this at idle? If you rev it up does it do it? If yes to the first and no to the second?

 

 

There is a fuel shut off system that turns the idle cut solenoid off during deceleration when the carburetor is closed and in the idle position and the intake vacuum above a preset amount. A vacuum switch senses high vacuum and shuts the solenoid off until the vacuum lowers again. The idle fuel would just go to waste out the exhaust so the solenoid is turned off. To prevent the engine stalling when if in neutral if coasting, or when the clutch is depressed for up or down shifting, a switch on the clutch pedal or in the transmission is used to keep the solenoid working.

 

I would say that the vacuum switch is unplugged. This is what keeps the solenoid on except if the intake vacuum is too high. If disconnected the solenoid will be off and no fuel for idle. This is why depressing the clutch saves it from stalling. The transmission switch if you put in neutral, assuming you have a 5 speed, should also connect the idle cut and keep the engine idling.

 

The vacuum switch (there are 2 that look the same) are on the passenger side inner fender. It's roundish, black plastic, a little bigger than a golf ball, has a vacuum hose to it and two wires. I suppose it could have failed in the open position too.

 

 

 

[Dog_run_720]

It doesnt matter if the truck is in gear or not. When moving I still have to depress the clutch a little to keep it from stalling out. I have to keep the clutch in all the way in neutral to keep it running. I know all the vacuum lines are connected. A buddy and I spent 45 minutes going through the diagram making sure everything was in the right place. 

 

If one of them failed I do have the other 2 still on the donor truck.

 

I honestly did think it could be a vacuum issue.

[datzenmike]

Well listen at the carburetor and don't start it but turn the ignition on off on off on off. You should hear a clicking sound, that's the idle cut. Is it?

[Dog_run_720]

OK, so, I swapped the swithces and rechecked the vacuum diagram and found that I had the vacuum lines crossed. No more clutch issues there. Although I'm pretty sure I need to do a clutch job anyway. Lots of grinding during down shifts.

 

But, the more pressing matter is the front end. I can't afford to have it done at the shops near me. They all want 3k or better. And none of them can find all the parts. I'd use the parts truck that I have, but it was the victim of a roll over; so the parts aren't any better. I'm hoping that someone here can give me a good source for finding suspension parts. I'll let you guys know that it needs basically everything but the sway bar links and control arms. I've checked rockauto, amazon, jcwhitney, and summit. Also, Ebay is kinda slim pickings at the moment. As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Y'all are awesome.

[bottomwatcher]

This is a cheap and easy front end to do right. Silly cheap if you go with cheap parts. Upper lower balljoints, inner outer tie rod ends and a new idler arm. Depending on the mileage maybe a centerlink. I have changed my centerlink about every 100k miles. I have a 4wd with big tires so balljoints and idler every 50k. Picklefork is quick if you are not reusing the balljoint. I don't know how lockdown is affecting parts but I was using rock auto. The buy a lot of old stock so you can usually get Japanese parts. Keep looking with them because they inventory always changes.

[Dog_run_720]

The truck has 230000+ miles on it. The last owner beat the hell out of it and put 32's on it. So not much is still good. I'll keep checking rock auto though. Thanks

[bottomwatcher]

Yeah ii am rolling 31s. Moog makes a heavy duty idler arm,  they last a long time. I just rebuilt my front end last summer. Finding a centerlink was difficult. I finally found a japanrse one on Ebay but had to use the factory part number. Standard search didn't turn anything up. The parts are out there just takes some fortitude searching.

[Dog_run_720]

Thanks. I checked rockauto again today and found everything except the center link. A combination of moog and mevotech parts.

[Charlie69]

Be careful buying Mevotech parts.  I ordered from Rock Auto 2 upper ball joints for a 720 2 wd truck. I received 2 identical boxes with identical part #s but 1 was correct the other was a later model press in ball joint.  I contacted Rock Auto and they said ship it back on my dime and the will give me 50% of what I paid back as store credit.  This was when you could still talk to some one and I asked why should I pay for shipping and only receive 50% of what I paid for the part.  This was Rock Auto,s new policy on close out parts.  I paid full price for the parts and I looked at my invoice I did pay the full price, but they shipped close out parts.  Any way you look at it I was over charged for the parts shipped.  Then I would have to pay shipping back and get this the 50% of the cos t of the in credit was 50% of the close out price.  I Kindly told the Rock Auto Manger I was talking to fuck off.  I through the wrong ball joint in my scrap pile and have not spent another dime with Rock Auto.

[Dog_run_720]

I double checked my cart and the mevotech parts are tie rod assemblies. It's mostly MOOG parts and some beck arnley stuff. And with everything that I selected, it's like $1500 cheaper for the parts than the shops are charging me.

[bottomwatcher]

Yep the only way the old vehicles are to repair yourself. This job is simple with exception of the alignment. You will need a picklefork or balljoint press. I prefer the picklefork and 2lb hammer approach. You get to relieve some frustrations!

[datzenmike]

You can do a toe steering alignment in your driveway. It is simple but tedious.

[Dog_run_720]

I'm getting a puller. I've got a pickle fork and a dead blow just in case. Any ideas an where to get a Centerlink right now?

[Dog_run_720]

So...Need a little help with Piston rings. Rock Auto has a lot of options for ring sizes. I've eliminated needing over sized rings for the moment. But that still gives me 2 different overall ring sizes. 2x1.5x4 and 1.5x1.5x4. haven't found anything on what the stock ring dimensions are.