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sunny310

79 210 Auto to 4 speed swap questions

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Finally found me a manual gearbox for my 210. Decided to go with a 4 speed for the time being until i can find me a 5 speed. I found the gearbox, driveshaft and flywheel. I already have the pedal assembly and the master cylinder slave cylinder and line that came with the pedals(thinking about if i should buy new ones).

So on to the questions...

1.where can i find the correct flywheel bolts?

2. is the starter for the auto and manual different?

3. Where can i find the stock b310 shifter boot?

4. Can I use the stock auto crossmember?(Cant seem to find one for the manual box)

5. How hard is it to wire up the back up lights n inhibitor switch by the clutch pedal

 

Pretty sure ill have more questions as time goes on...

Edited by sunny310

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1/ Try the Nissan dealer, they may be able to identify the size at least. You have your automatic bolts for the thread pitch it's just the length you need to know. As here on Ratsun and post a want ad.... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/

 

2/ On other Datsuns they have different part numbers but fit and work, like the 510. I don't see why this won't be the case on a A series engine.

 

3/ Shift boot. From another 210 in a wrecking yard or place a want ad. Do you have a shifter console? If so, shifter boots are shifter boots, and often you can find some other make (try to keep it Nissan, but... 😄) that fits and looks good. I don't have a stock one on my 710 but it fits the square hole and looks good.

 

4/ Maybe. Some Datsuns do by having two mounting holes on each side for the cross member but three holes on the body. All you do is move the cross member forward or back and line them up. Again, on my 710 the front and middle holes on the body were used with the 4 speed. The automatic used the middle and rear holes because it was longer. The 620, on the other hand, the cross member was turned 180 and this would off set the mount for the automatic. Maybe the 4 speed will bolt right in, I don't know.

 

5/ There are two pair of wires on the automatic interlock. Back up are, or probably are, Black/Red stripe and can simply be wired onto the manual reverse switch. The other two interrupt the start signal to the starter in any position but PARK and NEUTRAL so these need to be joined on a standard.

 

 

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Here is a link to your conversion: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Manual_transmission_conversion has some good info/parts needed list

Factory flywheel bolts are no longer available, Bproject, ebay has them link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-1200-Ute-Flywheel-Bolts-6-Pieces-Genuine-Fits-NISSAN-B120-A12-A14-A15/371334150791?epid=1840354823&hash=item56753d7a87:g:jCYAAOSweW5VYXoJ $62.00 free shipping 2-3 weeks!

Starters are basically the same, no difference between manual and automatic, however SOME of the A15 engines used a gear reduction starter. (Good idea if building high compression engine.

 

Cross member link: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Gearbox_Crossmember#B310

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Thanks for the reply guys. @datzenmike..I do have a console that I got from Thailand but it’s not on the car. Can’t get it to fit for some reason. I think a part of my dash has to be removed for it to go in. 

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I may have extra flywheel bolts; I've got to check because the A12 uses different bolts than the A14/15 and I'm not sure I've got extra sets of both. Also what motor is in the car? I can't remember if the A12A uses the same thread as the A12 or,the A14/15.

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My car has an A14. I thought they all used the same bolts?...that's weird. Btw when u install flywheel bolts do u have to put loctite on em?

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Probably same threads, different length.

 

No loctite, factory didn't use that shit. Get the right bolts and the right torque, good to go.

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How hard is it to swap out the pedal box? Can the brake and clutch pedals go on the auto pedal box or do I have to use the manual one? 

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If you have both pedals it is probably the same box.

 

Can't say for the 210, but other Datsuns the auto brake pedal is too wide to allow simply adding a clutch pedal beside it. You may be able to trim it down for size???

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I have a complete manual pedal box. I just maybe I could get away with changing just the pedals n not the whole thing. I’ll look under the dash later n check it out. I saw it done on the 240z on Wheeler Dealers too

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Datsun A series engines A13, A14, A15 & A12A all used metric flywheel bolts, the A12 used 3/8x24 UNF  thread bolts.

 

Lynchburg Nissan has  2 sets, http://datnissparts.com/set-of-6-flywheel-bolts-datsun-a12a-a13-a14-a15-b210-210-b310-310-n10-12315-h6200/ $42.00

 

OR if these are gone...

 

NEW bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-1200-Ute-Flywheel-Bolts-6-Pieces-Genuine-Fits-NISSAN-B120-A12-A14-A15/371334150791?epid=1840354823&hash=item56753d7a87:g:jCYAAOSweW5VYXoJ $62.00

 

My experience with the B models of cars, the pedal boxes are the same. Remove the MC push rod and return springs, remove the bolt securing the pedal and install the manual clutch and brake pedal, make sure to install thin bushings and spacers, on the mounting bolt in correct order.

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On 7/3/2019 at 7:19 AM, Morrisun said:

Datsun A series engines A13, A14, A15 & A12A all used metric flywheel bolts, the A12 used 3/8x24 UNF  thread bolts.

 

Lynchburg Nissan has  2 sets, http://datnissparts.com/set-of-6-flywheel-bolts-datsun-a12a-a13-a14-a15-b210-210-b310-310-n10-12315-h6200/ $42.00

 

OR if these are gone...

 

NEW bolts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-1200-Ute-Flywheel-Bolts-6-Pieces-Genuine-Fits-NISSAN-B120-A12-A14-A15/371334150791?epid=1840354823&hash=item56753d7a87:g:jCYAAOSweW5VYXoJ $62.00

 

My experience with the B models of cars, the pedal boxes are the same. Remove the MC push rod and return springs, remove the bolt securing the pedal and install the manual clutch and brake pedal, make sure to install thin bushings and spacers, on the mounting bolt in correct order.

Awesome dude thanks for the info!!

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Grab the news ones, sadly I still haven't been through by boxes of stuff as life has been in the way for several days.

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4 hours ago, Tom1200 said:

Grab the news ones, sadly I still haven't been through by boxes of stuff as life has been in the way for several days.

I actually bought em a little while ago. Thanks to Morissun for sending me the link. I also bought the gearbox and flywheel today. They should be here by Tuesday. Also trying to get a driveshaft and figure out what to do about the crossmember

Edited by sunny310

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Finally found me a driveshaft and crossmember. A guy on datsun1200 forum sent me a link to a crossmember on yahoo japan auctions and I purchased it. Got the driveshaft from a salvage yard in California via car-part.com. I'm hoping to have all the parts here soon and have the swap done before summer is over.

I figured out the pedals...turns out the pedal box is pretty much the same. The only difference is the bracket the holds the little switch for the clutch pedal. The pedals should swap in just fine

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The automatic came with a 3.889 differential and while this will work with a 4 or 5 speed manual, almost all were 3.70 ratio. Your acceleration will be marginally better than a stock 4 speed. For sure your speedometer gear in the 4 speed will not match the 3.889 and no, I don't believe auto and standard speedometer sleeves will swap but just the gear inside might.

 

Make sure you put a pilot bushing in the end of your crankshaft for the input shaft of the 4 speed to fit into.

 

The automatic has a clip on cover over the end of the crankshaft to align the converter, this has to come off before the flywheel can fit on.

 

Put a new rear seal in the driveshaft end of the transmission. They're cheap >$5, and only easy to do with the transmission out.Grease or oil the seal lips or the driveshaft surface (and splines) so it doesn't start turning dry.

 

Use lithium grease on the release bearing/clutch arm where they contact at those spring clips, also the clutch pivot/clutch arm contact points and both ends of the slave push rod. Use a new release bearing and use regular grease to lightly fill the cavity inside the release collar that slides back and forth on the transmission input end.

 

Gear oil is 80/90w and must be GL4 NOT GL5 which is strictly for differentials. Theoretically you CAN use GL5 but you must replace at regular intervals I think every 30k/3 years before it gets too old and begins to break down. If wanting smoother faster shifting try GM Delco Friction Modified Manual Synchromesh Transmission Oil. It's a bit spendy and truth be told probably the same as Royal Purple and that red stuff just the color (orange) is different. Its very thin and synthetic so it will seep past old seals. I'm very impressed with it and can now downshift without grinding and up-shift faster with the same effort. The transmission seems looser less stiff shifting when cold too.

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Ok wow thanks for the info buddy👍🏾👍🏾 This is my first time trying an auto to manual swap n I’m a bit nervous. I’m hoping everything goes good

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Can someone tell me how to replace the clutch release bearing and output shaft seal on my f4w60?

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The throw out bearing is lightly pressed onto the carrier. 

 

The output seal can be pulled out with a seal puller or if you hard pressed a flat blade screw driver. It taps back in, I use a wooden block, pub the seal generously and give it some gentle taps and it goes back in. Just make sure it goes in straight. I always order 2 when I get new ones.

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So do I just tap the bearing off the carrier with a hammer?

 

Also where do I find replacement clutch lines? I need the hard and soft lines

 

And how do I get the surround for the auto shifter off? I don’t see any screws to get it off

Edited by sunny310

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Gear puller for the bearing removal. Vice to press on the new one.... carefully. There is a front and back side. Copy how the old one is set. Rounded side to clutch and flat side to rear.

 

Pry old transmission rear seal out with screwdriver. Try not to gouge the inside of the transmission seal surfaces. Place new seal on transmission and tap lightly with hammer to get started then place block of wood over it and drive home. Use a suitable size piece of pipe or socket to tamp down into the tailshaft to countersink it.

 

Measure the hard line with a length of string then buy a pre made brake line the same length or s close oversize with the proper fittings already on it. You can bend it around a baseball bat or coffee mug.

 

 

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So I’m about ready to start the swap. May start on it tomorrow evening after work. Got the pedals in(just swapped in the pedals not the whole assembly) and got the clutch master cylinder bolted in. Almost all my parts are here...waiting for the output shaft seal to get here. 

 

One question. How do I get the flex plate spacer off the crankshaft?

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So I’m still confused about the wiring part. There are red yellow green and black wires that were cut n I don’t know where they go. They’re part of the switches for the back up lights and top gear. It doesn’t have a neutral switch like I’ve seen on other 60 4 speeds tho. 5a758ca1-8208-45ae-831a-7568a0ab5cb4.larf735b192-7a06-40e5-903d-8519f93c381e.lar05dedff0-fd0f-406a-8d21-725389ff61c6.lar0332a1c1-cc84-4030-88fc-0a5ab03a7ef0.lar

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Update...been driving my car for over a week n it’s a blast. Could use another gear but it’s still awesome. Figured out the wiring as well. Have to bleed the clutch again...feels like it has some air in the system

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