A87 Cylinder Head Help!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

http://www.car-part.com/

 

Engine cores, complete running takeouts, and every other conceivable part can be found there.

[designateddoug]

13 hours ago, datzenmike said:

This head has been milled down some. If you remove 0.060" from a stock head this would remove about 8cc from the combustion chamber making it just a hair smaller than the stock 210 and this would bring your compression back up to over 8.6, and you'd have the larger valves and ports.  Accurately measure down from the valve cover surface to the bottom f the head. An uncut head should be 4.248" If less it's been cut.

 

Thanks Mike. 4.195, is what I am measuring. Would that be decent enough to run while I figure out which way I would want to go?

 

Thinking of taking your earlier tip on grinding down the adjustment nut and pivot post to get me the correct clearance on the valves for cylinders 2 and 3. This way I can get it up and running good enough to cruise around town until I decide on my next move. 

 

2 hours ago, docbainey said:

Complete L16 & 4sp in the Ratsun classifieds for $450

 

Thanks Doc, I did see this one. It's about 6 hours one way from me, there is an L20B in AZ about the same distance for $250 needing to be rebuilt in the classifieds as well. I'm going to keep looking for something locally in decent shape. If I'm going to have to rebuild an engine anyways, finding something locally I can take a closer look at prior to purchase or a day of travel

[datzenmike]

Roughly 1.346mm That would remove 7.6cc from the combustion chamber. As this was an open chamber head 45.2cc - 7.63cc = 37.57cc which is almost exactly the same as the 210 head!!! Someone did their math on this head!!!  I wouldn't swap to the 210 head now.

[designateddoug]

14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I wouldn't swap to the 210 head now.

Awesome. thanks Mike. 

 

Plan now is to reassemble the engine, get it running as sound as possible with what i have while I look for a motor and trans swap to build outside of the car before slapping it in. Pretty excited for this truck even with the L16 for now 😀

[Rays74]

4 hours ago, designateddoug said:

Awesome. thanks Mike. 

 

Plan now is to reassemble the engine, get it running as sound as possible with what i have while I look for a motor and trans swap to build outside of the car before slapping it in. Pretty excited for this truck even with the L16 for now 😀

 

This is the best plan, even with the "slushbox" behind that L16 you will still get to enjoy your vintage truck while improving it. An added benefit to your truck being an automatic is that it already has the correct drive shaft for the longtail 4 or 5spd swap  (the orig '73 manual trans was a shorty and used a unique driveshaft section that won't work with the better longtail transmissions you will likely be using...winner!!) 😉

Edited May 28, 2019 by Rays74

[datzenmike]

I know the '74 auto is long, don't know about the '73. It's too close a year to the 510 3N71B auto that were short. Easy enough to just go out and measure it. It's either 26" or 31.5"

[Rays74]

Going off the two others I've help switch over it should be a cinch but yeah take a look. 

Edited May 29, 2019 by Rays74

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

On 5/27/2019 at 8:37 PM, datzenmike said:

Roughly 1.346mm That would remove 7.6cc from the combustion chamber. As this was an open chamber head 45.2cc - 7.63cc = 37.57cc which is almost exactly the same as the 210 head!!! Someone did their math on this head!!!  I wouldn't swap to the 210 head now.

With that much cut off the head, it would be wise to pay attention when assembling the timing chain and guides. You may need to file or drill the mounting holes in the guides to get everything lined up correctly.

[designateddoug]

21 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I know the '74 auto is long, don't know about the '73. It's too close a year to the 510 3N71B auto that were short. Easy enough to just go out and measure it. It's either 26" or 31.5"

 

 

31.5 🙂

[designateddoug]

5 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

With that much cut off the head, it would be wise to pay attention when assembling the timing chain and guides. You may need to file or drill the mounting holes in the guides to get everything lined up correctly.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I will definitely pay extra attention there. 

[datzenmike]

That much removed from the head is almost the same as a stretched chain. There is a way to gauge how much extra was added and the cam sprocket is provided with adjustment holes to compensate. If beyond adjustment you will have to add cam tower shims to raise the cam. As a last resort.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I wasn't referring to the cam timing. Chain guide geometry can be affected when the head is cut. Adding cam tower shims can correct that, but then you run the risk of screwing up your rocker arm geometry, which can be corrected with thicker lash pads. Slotting the holes in the chain guides is the easiest way to correct this.