henry Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 1971/ (1972 motor) 510 SW 1.6L Hello, Bought the car with the dual points distributor. Later on I decided to go to EI; purchased a single points distributor & installed it on the same pedestal with a Crane Cams EI conversion kit. It's always run well although the distributor has a slight movement from side to side. It's not super firm. Also, the idle has never been as smooth as it was with the points. What I'm wondering is: should I've used a different pedestal for that single point distributor? (I'm actually considering switching to a 'Matchbox' one day). Thank you for considering Henry Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 The pedestal isn't the part that wears down, it's the sleeve bearing inside the distributor itself. Possibly in some, there is no bearing at all and the spindle just rides in the casting. I highly recommend the EI matchbox and matching coil. I doubt the Crane set up has a hotter spark just breakerless. Quote Link to comment
henry Posted December 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 Yeah, it was a re manufactured unit from Krageng's . It always worked like that from the get -go. I removed it today & noticed that the oil pump drive shaft tang is not really at the 11:25 position, but more like at the 11:35 position. I guess I'll have to take care of that first. Does the oil pump shaft suppose to have a little bit of play? Mine does. Does the EI matchbox require a different pedestal than what I have already? Thank you for taking the time to answer, Henry Quote Link to comment
henry Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Hi, Does the oil have to be drained when removing the oil pump? Thanks, Henry Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 (edited) 13 minutes ago, henry said: Hi, Does the oil have to be drained when removing the oil pump? Thanks, Henry Nope, I just swapped mine out recently.... I only spilled a couple drops but I tore the gasket, so you might want one of those on hand.... There will be oil in the pump.. Edited December 24, 2018 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 To make a determination of how the distributor/oil pump spindle is clocked the engine MUST be accurately set at TDC. That would be the timing mark on the crank pulley pointing at the zero mark on the timing scale. Now look. No you do not need to drain the oil but be ready with a few rags as a couple of tablespoons full of oil will dribble out. Oil pump drive spindle play? It might fit loosely into the oil pump. I always recommend that if replacing the L series oil pump that you get a high volume one from a later '90 and up KA engine from a D21 Hardbody. The rotors are 13% longer and it idles with higher pressure. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Definately worth upgrading the pump... I found Hitachi brands like Mike was saying for $50... But sometimes it may be neccessary to have the oil spindle installed wrong.... For instance if you have the wrong pedestal for the distributor your running... Look at your adjustment, if its centered with room to advance and retard your timing I would leave it alone.... if not go a head and fix it..... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Forgot about that. If you can set your timing correctly with the spindle at 11:35 then leave it alone. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Just incase Quote Link to comment
yenpit Posted December 27, 2018 Report Share Posted December 27, 2018 Is your oil pump/dizzy dog drive shaft movement side to side OR up & down? There is a thrust surface boss inside the timing cover, where the drive shaft passes thru as you stick it back up inside (after removing the oil pump)..........I think you can shine a light up inside the oil pump cavity hole to see it. It will be about quarter size in diameter with the hole thru it for the shaft, up to the dizzy. That surface facing you (down) should NOT be visually worn or scored. If it is, that might explain up & down movement of the shaft when installed. I don't think I've ever seen the drive shaft hole worn out, which I suppose could cause side to side movement, but you might look to make sure! As Mike says, if the dizzy shaft is at 11:35 at TDC, you should be able to rotate the dizzy to make up for that, within reason. If you don't like that idea, and want it exactly as it should be, THEN pull the oil pump, check for wear, pull the shaft, set TDC, re-install the shaft! Quote Link to comment
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