mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I am in the middle of swapping out my z24i engine in my 1986 Nissan Hardbody with a 1983 Z22 Engine. The Z22 engine came with the 4 wire vacuum advance distributor , a 32/36 Weber carburetor, a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the head, and it also has already had the double roller timing chain swap done to it. My z24i has electronic vacuum advance. I am needing to figure out how to wire up the new distributor and also i was wanting to figure out vacuum line routing on the the engine. The truck has had the emissions deleted, air conditioner deleted, and the EGR valve deleted. Thanks in advance for the help. Also i was curious if there are any ignition upgrades that i could do to the new distributor. MSD coils maybe? I have even seen a pertronix electronic ignition upgrade to replace the points. Would anything be gained? Another thing was my exhaust set up. I would like it to sound aggressive but nothing like these Honda you see with the fart cans on them. I have a pacesetter header and dynomax super turbo muffler running the stock exhaust diameter and the cats have been removed. There is not a vehicle inspection where i live. Any ideas or Thoughts? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I think the electric fuel pump may be in the tank, but either way you can't run it because the pressure is in the 40 PSI range. I don't know if the mechanical pump can suck fuel through it or not. Something to think about. This distributor??? For the distributor you'll need a switched power supply that is on in start and run. One of the wires is the power wire the other two go to the coil negative sides. The separate white? wire, just leave disconnected. The 720 doesn't use points. Stick with the factory ignition, it's already electronic, high output. There's nothing wrong with it. Shiny red MSD coils and boxes are like fishing lures.... they catch more fishermen than fish. Exhaust' sounds' about right as it is. If you already have the header fine to use it. If you're just thinking about getting one save your money. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I was told that i would need to remove the fuel pump in the tank and just put a filter on the end of the hose.is this true? and is that all id have to change to run the mechanical style? i would like to keep and use the mechanical fuel pump on the z22. Could i obtain my switched power supply from one of the wires running to ignition cylinder underneath the steering column? Would i need a inline fuse from the wire underneath the column to the distributor? Also can i use my coils from the z24i? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 A filter in the tank would be damned hard to change when it gets dirty. No, put a filter just before the mechanical pump where you can get at it. Change every two years and you'll have no problems with dirt in the carb. I've seen Hardbody coils used on older vehicles but how they are wired I don't know. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 They have a 2 terminal male plug end on the back. i suppose that as long as the terminals are labeled positive and negative it'd wire up just the same? Another thing that i wanted to ask was if there are any differences between the motor mounts on the 2 engines? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Use the coil from the Z22 you know it works without any problems with the distributor. Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 True. Better to be safe than sorry i suppose. Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 What about the hose routing from the distributor to the carb? Can it be a straight shot or do I have to run it through the vacuum switch on the intake? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 If you have the Z22 coils use them. Use the Z22 mounts engine brackets if you have them. The Z24 engine is just 3/4" taller just below the head. That's the only external difference. They should be the same. You can run the vacuum advance hose directly to the distributor if you want. For emission purposes the vacuum advance is only allowed when the engine is warmed up. That's what that thermal vacuum valve TVV does. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I run vacuum advance straight from my Weber and completely disabled the TVV. I am running a stock Z24. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 The TVV is an open air bleed that destroys the vacuum advance signal. It's bolted to the intake with it's end in the coolant. As the engine warms up the air bleed closes and vacuum is applied to the distributor. As the engine is cold anyway you probably won't notice anything when driving. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 I thought that was how it worked but I wanted to double check and make sure. I'll get back on here and update everyone on the swap here soon when I make some headway. Thank yall. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Today i went to change the oil pump gasket on the z22 and when doing so my rotor moved on me. i was wondering if anyone had some pictures of how it all lines up and also what to check for to ensure its lined up correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 The oil pump? or the spindle that drives it and the distributor? If the oil pump just look up inside the timing cover for the drive spindle. It has a sort of screwdriver blade that fits into the pump to turn it. Adjust your oil pump to match and wiggle it back in. If the spindle fell out, that's much different. Were you at TDC? That will make putting it back together easier. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 The spindle fell out with the pump when i took it off. then i took the distributor out while trying to line everything back up. The mark on the crankshaft pulley is just a little past the 0 degree mark and the piston under number one spark plug on exhaust side is all the way up it feels like. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Get as close to TDC as you can with the distributor out. Assemble the spindle and the oil pump like this, bottom left... Install the pump and the spindle and push up into the timing cover and get like the picture on the right above. Here's a better view of how the top of the spindle should look. Note that thee is a large and a small side half moon. Slip the distributor back in place, it only fits in, in one position and you're done. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikecaleb Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Awesome thats exactly what i needed to know. Thanks again lol you are a life saver 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 If you only unbolted the pedestal from the timing cover the distributor timing will be untouched. Drop it in and go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.