'80 210... Assistance needed- Vancouver, WA

[KoHeartsGPA]

Felpro head gasket, not sure about shops to take the head...someone here knows and will hopefully schime in...

[datzenmike]

Last two I used NAPA Felpro and they are fine. Preparation and cleanliness are the trick to good seal.

[symbiot3]

Gotcha on that. Thank you. What else might I check for damage, from this overheating problem, while I have this girl torn apart (hoses, wiring, thermostat, PCV or EGR valves)?

[KoHeartsGPA]

Wouldn't hurt to take the radiator for a pressure test and if good, get it cleaned up.

[racerx]

also change your Tstat. start fresh, hoses, belts if needed.

[symbiot3]

Gotcha on all. Many thanks folks!

[Cosmonaut]

many times during an issue like this the heater core will plug. Flush out before reconnecting heater hoses. flush both ways several times....make sure your heater is set on hot.

[symbiot3]

Cosmonaut, thank you for including that part of the cooling system components. I've never done a heater core flush before. I take it the core needs to remain in the car, or am I wrong? Taking into consideration the issues I am working to rectify were caused by a leaking radiator, flushing the core would be highly relevant. Are there any posts on how to execute this action, or could you kindly advise me as to how to go about it? Please advise.

[Cosmonaut]

Yes, the Heater core remains in the car. Disconnect both heater hoses from the block. Turn the heater setting to HOT (very important) One hose into a bucket, the other hose you apply a garden hose to, after a few minutes reverse.

 

At first be carefully how much pressure you apply (this goes for both hoses), give it a little and let the water do its work, after it is running freely, up the pressure just a bit.

 

Always catch the first bit of water to come out of either hose, due to it having antifreeze solution in it.

 

If you want to do it neatly and don't mind a little extra work;

 

 

Make a length of hose of about 6 feet with a metal or plastic sleeve that will fit tightly into the heater hose...makes it easier to catch the waste in a bucket.

 

Get a garden hose fitting to affix to the heater hose (pressure side). Run the water with the garden hose loosely fitted to avoid damaging the heater core and heater hoses.

[symbiot3]

Awesome, Cosmonaut! Thank you!

[datzenmike]

Heater is shut off in the summer which is the same as the core being plugged. Water flow is shut off.

 

However if having a core leak, never connect the hoses together to flow around it. This just sends hot water from the head right back to the lower rad hose inlet without any cooling. This puts an unnecessary load on the rest of the cooling system. If not wanting the heater connected seal off the two hoses.

 

Possibly the thermostat may have stuck or is not opening fully.Replace with a good $8-$10 one not a $2.99 from WallMart.

 

Have a good look at the clutch fan. If the silicon clutch fluid has leaked out there will be little drive force. How it works is the effort to pull air through the rad exceeds the grip of the clutch and revving the engine higher does not increase the speed of the fan. Generally the fan speed is limited to about 1,500 RPMs. There is a thermostat inside that sensed hot rad air and opens a valve allowing more fluid in and this increases the speed to a maximum of just over 2,000 RPM but that's it. It resets once the system cools down. If there is little or no fluid the engine will spin but the fan not reach it's minimum speed.

 

I noticed my 710 makes a customary howling sound when you start up but within a block it goes away, so one day when it was warmed up I carefully touched my fan and easily slowed it and stopped it spinning. I do not recommend this unless you know it is slipping badly.

 

To check, do it with the engine off. Try to turn the fan blades by hand. It should normally be very firm to turn, but turn smoothly. You should not be able to spin it hard enough for it to keep spinning.

[symbiot3]

Just picked up the radiator for the '80 210.  Leak repaired, and component pressure tested-- the tech forewarned that it is getting old (makes me nervous-- will be posting for replacement radiator for both my 210's soon).  Ordering new hoses, gaskets, thermostat, Temp sending switch, PCV & EGR (why not?) from Rock Auto, along with associated head/exhaust gaskets, in preparation for the work to be done.  Pulling head as soon as cooling sys. replacement parts are in.  Question(s).... once I pull her head, & do an initial cleaning (with gasoline), what should I be looking for, with regards to possible damaged valves, valve stem/guides/seats?

[datzenmike]

Damage will be obvious. Take pictures. Warp will need a straight edge and some feeler gauges. It's possible nothing is wrong just the gasket blew.

[symbiot3]

Gotcha on that. My thanks.

[symbiot3]

So an update on this situation. Sorry folks, but i have failed. I managed to troubleshoot the cause of the issue to a leaking radiator, which caused the engine to overheat, & blow the head gasket. Got parts ordered (head, valve cover, thermostat, exhaust manifold gaskets, thermostat, EGR valve, temp sending unit), & had the radiator repaired. Started the teardown process, & have been stuck on the last of the exhaust nuts near the firewall (friggin attached bracket blocks any tool i possess from reaching it). After two months, i'm getting smart, & taking the old girl to a mechanic who knows how to address this issue. My apologies to you all, but replacing a head gasket is beyond my expertise- even with the aid of three different manuals. Thank you all for your advice, suggestions, & information freely given.

[datzenmike]

You only need replace the head gasket and the intake/exhaust gasket.

 

 

It will run just fine with the old thermostat, EGR weather it's working or not, doesn't need a water temp sender the old one is fine